Introduction: ЪДСК ТФ ЧЯЮИТ КДМЕГД ЭЦРЕГ СЮЭЕ ЦР

ТН\З ТНIИБ ЩАЭ F\БНТ\ИБ АГГ ТНЕ ШДЧ . I СФЦLD GФ IЙTФ THE DETДILS ФF ЩHЧ I WДS PЯEFФRMING EДCH ДCTIФИ BUT I EИDED UP CHAИGIИG MФST THINGS THДT WEЯE PLДИИED , SФ TФ SДVE US ДLL A ЬIT ФF TIME I ШILL JUST STICК TФ WHДT I ШAS DФING AT THДT MФMEИT , ДND ДS MФЯE AND MФЯE SEEMS UЙЙESSДSAЯЧ ЧФUL UNDEЯSTAND ШHЧ HФPEFULLЧ



what is it now its a flim camera with a focal distance of -1 to 5mm with a subject light. as with most macro modifications a easy way is to turn the lens around, on this camera i turned the body around insted (i was not planning macro by the way)
this camera will make macro images of small coins ,textures, finger nails and alike.

oh dear heres the tool list
dremmel tool
fiber disks
reinforced disks
grind stone
milling bits
spatulas
tinsnips
solder iron
hack saw
could i cut and paste this from
other instructs would ne1 notice
vice
files
wire cutters/stripopers
clamps
rulers
multimeter
hot glue gun
rivet gun
mortan pm40
lighter
screwdrivers
pliers
me

 
materials i used
unwell camera most of
shaker torch
battery holder
glue, hot, epoxy , super. liquid poly.
bondo (styrene polyester stinky filler stuff)
spray paint
camcorder parts
switch
sctotc tape
electrical tape
bake o foil
zippies
roofing nut and bolt
washers
rivet
enamel paint
thinners
marker pen
cigarette tin
hair pin
heat shrink
solder

Step 1: ФЯGДИ DФИЕЯ

most of a fed5 camera, as you might have spotted iv removed
the top cover
the range finder
lens mount
selftimer lever and trigger

Step 2: ЬДСЖ СФVЕЯ ЯЕlФСДТiФИ

iv cut the body parts that contain the film, whilst preserving the film transport and shutter

Step 3: ЯЕFIТТiИG ТНЕ ЕИDS ФF ТНЕ СДМЕЯД

i use foil and tape to protect the parts i dont want to gunge, and it also acts as a mold to more or less the right shape inside for the canister, and flange for the back plate.

Step 4: VЕИТДLДТiФИ ЯЕQUIЯЕD ШНЕИ FILLiИG

i added grooves and scuffed the metal to maximize mechanical grip and adhesion

Step 5: ШФЯKIИG ФЦТ ШНЕЯЕ ТНЕ FilМS GФiИG ТФ GФ

and the teeth on the rewind thingy that sticks in the top of the film, the film is now upside down so everything moves.
i had to grind the films path flat after removing the leather type material, and make sure the film is not going ovewr any sharp edges.

Step 6: С Д Т Д S T Я Ф P H E

the shutter got something in it and the ribbon broke, i thought about making a moving slit by fixing the curtains together, i wasnt happy with the result so i had to remove the shutter , difficulty i have covered the access screws to it.

Step 7: Д LiТТlЕ ЬiТ SIDЕТЯДСЖЕD

camcorder viewfinder was allmost part of the optical system.(got some good tips from an instructable for making a night vision monocular.)

Step 8: ТНiS ДllМФSТ НДPPЕИD

what changed my mind was the overall length of the sticky out stuff at the front and the size of the projection.

Step 9: ДТТДСНiИG ТНЕ ФТНЕЯ ЕИD Фf ТНЕ FЯФИТ ФF ТНЕ ВФDЧ

i used super glue to keep the bits of metal in place while i prepare to fill over them.
a generous layer and then a step drill makes light work of making a nice round hole.

Step 10: Д LЕИS , ДИЧ LЕИS, SФМТНiИG.

its been sitting on my desk for ages!
the focus bit from 2 camcorder viewfinders back to back, (eye sides together)
epoxy and filler used to attached the end bit from a dead shaker torch, it will serve as a lens hood and guide, once set i trimmed the excess plastic inside.
iv also added filler to make the top edge of the back cover light proof with any luck.

Step 11: МДkiИG ТНЕ ЯЕМФvДBLЕ ВiТ SЕСЦЯЕ ЩНЕИ ФИ

the film change cover had twisty locks ,but ewhat they catch onto has long gone with all the cutting iv done previously , the cover had a tripod mount iv reoved it and am using the hole for a bolt, then iv glue a nut to the body (drilled hole benith it) then im going to carefully fill around it and almost over it to make it never move when the back cover is being used.

Step 12: SЦPЕЯ SiМPLЕ SНЦТТЕЯ

2 slits and a bit of metal with a hole in it. it slides open and shut,
the metal was anodized aluminum , so i painted the body to roughly match it.

Step 13: ДИD I МЕДИ ,ЯЕДL CLФЗЕ ЦP!

its more a surface scanner, works nice on light emitting subjects like screens and such, but just in case i added the led from the shaker torch into the lens hood.
i aimed the led at about 45° to make its light focus center thing in the middle of the hood.and i attached the resistor directly to the led and heat shrinked it all , then i could concentrate on making the wireing decorative ish.

Step 14: DETДILS ДИD THE TФUЯ

engraved some specification on the top,colored in with marker pen, added increments to the focus ring.
the light switch is plasced so that after the shutter is slid open its easy to access.
added some white paint to help reflect the leds light more evenly.
the tape makes a simulation of wjhat the film will be exposed to, the tape will be removed before
film goes in.
the coin is using the led , last image is the screen of my phone

Comments

author
crazyg (author)2013-08-19

i was in the tail of a migraine when i did the write up, possibly aggravated by the filler , and spray paint, so i advise be aware of the hazards you expose yourself to, and from there its your informed choice .
blurry vision take a break etc.

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