Make a power wheels jeep that is controlled by an XBOX controller. This particular build is using Power Wheels® Jeep® Hurricane with Monster Traction™ but should be usable across many different types of power wheels with small adjustments.

I wanted to do this project so I could drive my kids around. They are 2 and 3. We take the jeep out a few times a week. It's great for going to the park or just walking around the neighborhood. It works kind of like a stroller as far as containing and protecting them, but obviously way awesomer.

This project has also been built with expansion in mind. Because the motor controller boards have feedback, and there's plenty of room left on the Arduino microcontroller, it will be easy to add things such as proximity sensors and driver profiles. That way, when I give it to my little boy to drive himself, I can set the driver profile to be gentler as well as activate proximity sensors so he can't ram a tree.

Also, in essence this entire build is a fairly simple way to get a robot off the ground. My project was particular to the power wheels because I'd been dreaming of sitting on my porch with my controller and driving my kids in the yard, but really the setup could apply to anything with motor driven wheels and a steerable front end. (motor size etc taken into consideration of course).

I hope you enjoy reading about my project as much as I did making it. And if you do decide to tackle this Instructable and build your own, please contact me for any questions. I want to keep improving this so as many people can take that old Power Wheels and make it into the coolest thing on the block.

Now let' s make it!
Things you will need: Tools / Supplies:
     * Soldering Iron (i like this one)
     * Solder
     * Wire Strippers
     * A saw or cutting wheel to cut metal (i used an end grinder with a cutting wheel)
     * Wrenches / Screwdrivers
     * Drill - (a drill press is good for the steering plates, but a drill will work)

  • Connect the Arduino to the USB Host shield, then connect that to the Wireless gaming receiver.
  • Drive the linear actuator with the Pololu Jrk Motor Controller
  • Drive the motors already in the Power Wheels with the Pololu Simple High-Power Motor Controller
  • Connect both motor controllers to the Arduino so they are controlled by the Xbox controller.
  • Remove the steering mechanism currently in the Power Wheels
  • Build a custom steering mechanism that is controlled with the linear actuator.
Sounds easy, right!

Step 1: Get the Xbox Controller Communicating to the Arduino

The first thing is get the Xbox controller communicating with the Arduino via the USB Host Shield. All of the pics included in this Instructable show an Arduino Mega, but in reality, an Uno is all that is needed for the USB Host Shield and only 2 digital outs.

Plug the USB Host Shield onto the Arduino. For now, power the Arduino with you're computer. Next plug the Xbox 360™ Wireless Gaming Receiver for Windows®. Once these connections are made load code shown below into the Arduino which allows the Arduino to perform steering operations based on input from the controller.

There's plenty of notation to help understand what's going on.

Arduino Code
// *****************************
// *    RC Power Wheels Jeep   *
// *****************************


A 12v dual-motor Power Wheels Jeep Hurricane will have drive
and steering remotely-controlled via Arduino.

Power Wheels Jeep Hurricane
Arduino UNO R3
Circuits@Home USB Host Shield 2.0          http://www.circuitsathome.com/products-page/arduino-shields/usb-host-shield-2-0-for-arduino
Pololu Simple Motor Controller 18v25       http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1381/resources
Pololu JRK Motor Controller 12v12          http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1393/resources
Pololu Generic Linear Actuator 4" .6"/s    http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2333
Xbox 360 Wireless USB Adapter
Xbox 360 Wireless Controller


* +-------+         +---------------+  USB    +-----------------+
* |Arduino+-------->|USB Host Shield+-------->|XBOX USB Receiver|****/>    </****XBOX Wireless Controller
* +-+-----+         +---------------+         +-----------------+                 
* |
* | Tx (TTL Serial)
* |
* |------------------|
* |                  |
* v Rx               v Rx
* +----------+      +----------+
* |Pololu SMC+      |Pololu Jrk|
* +----------+      +----------+
* Master            Slave
* +                 +
* |                 |
* |                 |
* v                 v
* +--------+        +--------+
* |Dual 12v|        |Linear  |
* | Motors |        |Actuator|
* +--------+        +--------+
* Outdoors with line-of-sight, the Wireless Xbox Controller has an awesome range. The max range
* has not been fully tested, but I've gone over 50ft without any noticeable loss in signal.
* Everything sits on board the Jeep. All TTL Serial connections are hard-wired into the Arduino
* and motor controllers. The Xbox Receiver is attached to a metal pole antenna-style.
* The current linear actuator may be too slow. It can move 110lbs of force but at .6"/s. There
* is a faster model that does 22lbs @ 1.5"/s http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2345

// *****Includes for the Circuits@Home USB Shield *****
#include <XBOXRECV.h>  // Xbox 360 Wireless Receiver

//Create USB instance? USB SHIELD
USB Usb;

// Create an instance of the Xbox Receiver inputs called XboxRCV

// These next constants are bytes part of the Pololu Protocol
const byte pololuCommandByte = 170;
const byte smcDeviceNumber = 13;
const byte smcSpeedDataByte3 = 0;
const byte smcFWDbyte = 5;
const byte smcREVbyte = 6;
const byte jrkDeviceNumber = 11;

char smcSpeed;  // Final speed
long int leftStickX; // Xbox Left Analog Stick value

void setup(){
  Serial.begin(9600);    // Serial baud rate to 9600

    // Halt program until shield is connected
  // USB.Init will return -1 for shield disconnected and 0 if connected
  if (Usb.Init() == -1) {    // If USB shield did not initialise for whatever reason...
    while(1); //halt as long as shield is reported disconnected


void loop(){
  // Let's process the Xbox input
  if(XboxRCV.Xbox360Connected[0]) {

    // START button sends exitSafeStart command to SMC
      // *******************************
      // *        exitSafeStart        *
      // *******************************
      // Required to allow motors connected to SMC to move
      // Must be called when controller restarts and after any error
      // Pololu Protocol: 0xAA (170) | device number | 0x03 (3)

    /* The Xbox triggers provide values from 0 - 255. The SMC will accept a low
     resolution speed value as a percentage, 0% - 100% (High resolution is
     a 2-byte int). The next two lines maps the controller to output a
     negative value for L2 (Reverse) and positive for R2 (Forward). These two
     values are then summed to provide the final speed and direction. This is
     so that both triggers can be held simultaneosly without causing the values
     to oscillate between Forward and Reverse
    char XboxL2 = map((XboxRCV.getButtonPress(L2,0)), 0, 255, 0, -100);
    char XboxR2 = map((XboxRCV.getButtonPress(R2,0)), 0, 255, 0, 100);

    // Sum the mapped inputs together to give a final speed and direction
    smcSpeed = XboxL2 + XboxR2;

    /* The sample code for the Xbox controller gave a deadzone of -7500 to 7500.
     This code maintains that dead zone for now (I would like to make it
     adjustable while the sketch is running). */

    leftStickX = map(XboxRCV.getAnalogHat(LeftHatX,0), -32768, 32767, 0, 3880);  // Analog stick moved
    // Set the dead band in the left analog stick. Would like this to be adjustable
    if ((leftStickX >= 1500) && (leftStickX <= 1983)){
      leftStickX = 1400;

  // If no triggers/sticks are moving, then center and zero
  else {
    leftStickX = 1400;
    smcSpeed = 0;

  // ************* RESERVED "HEARTBEAT" **********
  // "Heartbeat" will send a serial command every x seconds as a "keep-alive" to the SMC and JRK
  // controllers. It will also prevent duplicate commands from flooding the serial buffer (ideal
  // for Xbee implementation).

  // *******************************
  // *      SEND SERIAL COMMANDS   *
  // *******************************
  /* Reserved for serial commands sent to motor controllers to adjust
   option parameters. Also to process the response from those
   commands if applicable. */

  // *******************************
  // *        setMotorSpeed        *
  // *******************************
   The Pololu SMC can use a full resolution speed value (-3200 to 3200), however, this is not needed
   (yet) since the Xbox controller analog triggers only output 0 to 255. The below tables are copied
   straight from the manual linked above. We'll be using a low resolution speed value expressed in
   percentage (0 to 100).
   "Alternate Interpretation: The allowed values for the second speed data byte are 0–100,
   so you can ignore the first speed data byte (always set it to 0), and consider the
   second data byte to simply be the speed percentage. For example, to drive the motor at
   53% speed, you would use byte1=0 and byte2=53."
   Motor Forward
                    Command Byte Data Byte 1 Data Byte 2 Data Byte 3 Data Byte 4
   Pololu Alternate Use 0xAA (170) device number 0x05 (5) 0 (always)      speed %
   Motor Reverse (data byte 2 changes)
                    Command Byte Data Byte 1 Data Byte 2 Data Byte 3 Data Byte 4
   Pololu Alternate Use 0xAA (170) device number 0x06 (6) 0 (always)      speed %
  // smcSpeed should be a number from -100 to 100

    // First send the Pololu SMC command byte

  // Next, send the SMC device number

  // Here, let's determine the speed and direction.
  if (smcSpeed < 0)  // Let's reverse since the speed is negative
    Serial.write(6);  // motor reverse command
    smcSpeed = -smcSpeed;  // make smcSpeed positive b/c the command can only read positive numbers
    Serial.write(5);  // motor forward command

  Serial.write(smcSpeedDataByte3);  // Always zero (for now) because of the protocol being used

  // Now let's send the actual speed
  delay(1);  // For stability

  // *******************************
  // *          setJRKPos          *
  // *******************************
  /* http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J38/4.e
   Pololu protocol, hex: 0xAA, device number, 0x40 + target low 5 bits, target high 7 bits
   Here is some example C code that will generate the correct serial bytes,
   given an integer “target" that holds the desired target (0 - 4095) and an array called serialBytes:
   1 serialBytes[0] = 0xC0 + (target & 0x1F); // Command byte holds the lower 5 bits of target.
   2 serialBytes[1] = (target >> 5) & 0x7F;   // Data byte holds the upper 7 bits of target. */

  Serial.write(0x40 + (leftStickX & 0x1F));
  Serial.write((leftStickX >> 5) & 0x7F);

  delay(1);  // For stability


<p>Awesome job on this and lots of details, I've finally got most of the parts and am starting on this today. One note I did want to point out, In order to adapt this to the smaller power wheels, would require significant alterations. A key one being that stock, they do not have a single piece of metal other than screws, the rear axle, the 2 wheel axles, the steering shaft, and a flat bar for steering and maybe one more. The square tubing that you bolt the actuator to is non-existent in the smaller ones.</p><p>I don't suppose you ever got the steering working for the child? That is the only detail I've been slightly concerned with as I definitely am trying to get my son to take control but he doesn't yet understand that is what he is doing. Aside from that I may suppliment what you did here with details on adding a working horn, backup buzzer, and some lights. One additional selling point for using the Hurricane model, it has a working AM/FM radio, no display to see what station it's on, but kids are probably just as happy with music, and no repeating cheesy generated tunes to drive you up the wall...</p>
<p>Hey, thanks! I am currently working on some major changes to this build. For starters, I made one little mistake early 2014 and burned up the $100 steering controller. This deflated my motivation for this project for a while but now I'm getting back on track.</p><p>I haven't fixed the ability for the kids to steer it themselves. Some ideas on the board is connecting a potentiometer to the steering wheel and wiring it to the Arduino. This way they'll have power steering and I can override it with the controller.</p><p>Second, I'm collecting different types of these toys and reverse engineering them all. I'm finding ways to add modifications to each without having to cut anything. Since I started this project I've built my own CNC and 3D printer to help with prototyping.</p><p>If you have any questions, tips, or need some advice please let me know. Once I finish this last (unrelated) project May 15th, I'm dedicating all of my energy to upgrading and updating RC options for these toys. Thanks again!</p>
<p>NerdSpouse, </p><p>Received most of my parts today, and am about to begin piecing things together and code. Did you ever return to this project as you mentioned and revise the code? I may seek you out with questions as I continue. Thanks for your great work!</p>
<p>I did some work on the steering, and managed to come up with a mounting method that did not require the plates or significant modifications. I removed the bottom cover and drilled a couple of holes in the crossmember, as well as the steering bar. Added a piece of square aluminum as well as the recommended mount from pololu, then the actuator tucked right up in like it belongs there. As for code I am likely going to tie things into an rc receiver ask ended up getting a roboclaw 2x60 amp motor controller. Then I can work on a control board with local inputs.</p>
<p>It's funny that today I made some time to cut the aluminium sheet. After seeing your mod, I may scrap my precisely milled plates, as this looks much cleaner. </p><p>What size was your square aluminium tubing? </p><p>Are you using the arduino and xbox controller that is utilized in this instructible? When you say RC do you mean a more traditional RC controller? </p><p>Thanks again, it's good to have an companion in this project. </p><p>I'm John btw. </p>
Sorry for the delay, I missed the notification email. Square tubing is 1&quot; to match the crossmember, the other side I simply ran a 3&quot; bolt (thats from memory so dont trust it, I just lined it up, measured and found the highest grade bolt in the proper diameter, and cut flush with the nylock nut)<br>If you have been patiently awaiting this reply, let me know and i can take some measurements on where I drilled.<br><br>As for r/c, i am referring to standard off the shelf stuff, either via my spektrum heli remote or a traxxas pistol grip.
<p>Hey Raw Liquid, No problem, I was able to pick up some aluminium square tubing in a few different sizes and made things work out... </p><p>I'm always open to any help or advise anyone may have, and I'm sure others would be as well as time passes and more attempt this. I'll post some pictures myself and things progress. </p><p>I'm still fighting the code, have my arduino/usb shild/microsoft communicating, but get compiling errors with uploading and verifying remainder of code. </p><p>Honestly last night I ordered a RC control and board myself. Perhaps I'll figure out the code between now and the time it arrives, but prolly not. No matter what, I AM going to get it figured out, but I want to get my daughter rolling in the jeep before she's old enough to take mine. </p><p>I wish nerdspouse would chime in and perhaps offer some advice and assistance on the code. I've read the comments where he was changing some and updating and would repost. </p><p>I'm sure just as with all of us, life gets in the way of the things we want to do. </p><p>Thanks again! </p>
I dont consider myself anything close to an expert, but when it comes to taking some code and smashing it repeatedly with a frying pan until the board takes it is one thing I have had success with. Send what you have to me at gmail, dont forget any libs, and I will try and take a look...dont know for sure it will work, but I can try and get it to compile at least.<br>Also, include the errors you get when you try to compile just so i can be sure of the state of things.
Can I ask what mistake it was? I managed to strip a metal gear servo for steering, just from a bump into a bush...I *was* collecting parts for the smaller one but when I found the hurricane on Craigslist my wife said yes but... so they all left quickly...
<p>The quick version: I used one set of batteries for the steering motor and both drive motors. Often the steering motor would slow because the drive motors are full power and vice-versa. One hour before the RVA MakerFest event I decided to rewire a new set of batteries so that there were 12 volts driving the steering motor and 18v driving the rear. Somewhere along the way I ended up wiring power to the wrong pins on the steering controller and *poof!* it was shot. $100 down the drain. I'm definitely designing my own board now.</p>
<p>This project is out of my realm, I am wondering if anybody on this page is located near the east coast near Dover Delaware and is willing to work on this project so that my son whom was born blind can have the opportunity to have a power wheel and enjoy this toy that all other 3 year old enjoy but at the same time do it safely, I am willing to pay some one to do this project and I will be the one supply all the material and hardware to get this job done. Thank you</p>
<p>Still not compiling. I'm thinking that my technique could be flawed. I have been copy and pasting your code directly into the Arduino sketch app vers 1.6.4. from this site. Perhaps I am getting extra *stuff* because of this? </p><p> I also wonder if the xboxrecv.h version could be an issue? I don't know. What I do know is that something I am doing is wrong. </p><p>In the Arduino app, Tools &gt; Board: Arduino Uno - check! Tools &gt; Programmer: AVRISP mkII (is this good - no idea). At first it was erroring out on the xboxrecv.h because I did not have one. Now I have one but is it the right one? It doesn't error out on that any longer. </p><p>Spent some times with friends tonight going over this. Truthfully, my friends all know C and I don't. *They* were the ones looking through all this. I was just trying to understand what they were talking about. Someone mentioned that perhaps this was rather ambitious of me - yes it most likely is but I am going to learn from this. </p><p>Thank you so much for all your comments and help. I do appreciate it!</p>
Collecting parts, so far...Working P.W. Vehicle, Arduino Uno R3, Keys USB Host Shield 2.0....more on way, very excited! I'm in the electronics field but kinda a nubie to arduino
Update 11-May-2015: <br>Tonight I was able to update the USB library and compiled successfully the xboxrecv. Yeah! Hopefully that is what I was supposed to do.<br>I ran into a snag compiling your code for the RC Power Wheels. The first compile returned an error of spi.h library not found. That one was fairly easy to fix. Running a second compile has seemed to hang it. I actually waited 30 minutes before killing it. I just tried it again. States that it is compiling the sketch and then just hangs. I'm thinking maybe I screwed up somehow with your code? No idea. Suggestions? I'll start picking through the syntax in the code because I can't think of what else might be hanging it.<br><br>Just fyi - I do have an original Arduino Uno from Arduino. It's the USB shield that is not an actual Arduino usb shield. Could that be causing the sketch to hang on compiling? I don't need to load the libraries onto the Arduino ... or do I? Doesn't the sketch use the library? Once the sketch compiles, then you upload the sketch to the Arduino, right?<br><br>Such a newbie - sorry. Thank you for your assistance!
<p>Night 1: Received my USB shield today (finally). Ran your script to get my Arduino talking with my Windows Receiver and it failed. Did I mention this a learning adventure for me? New to all of this and this is my first go with Arduino's (which is why I chose this). Having a project is the best way for me to learn things. So many variables! I'll keep you in the loop.</p>
<p>How's it coming so far? I'm curious to know what USB shield you picked out. I purchased the Sparkfun version and the original Circuits@Home version and found that the C@H version is far superior. The Sparkfun USB Host Shield gave me all kinds of problems.</p>
I'm stuck right now. I purchased the Keyes usb from GearBest. When I ordered it I wasn't paying close enough attention. Apparently they are based in Hong Kong. May have been a mistake.<br><br>I'm stuck on trying to get the script you posted to compile. Right now I'm slowly working my way through the script to figure out what I don't have set up right on my end. <br><br>This is my first experience with using someone else's script and I am brand new to Arduino. I did manage to load the usb library (I think).
<p>Best thing to do is go official for both boards. The 5 or 10 bucks I saved was not worth the headache later.</p><p><strong>Definitely </strong>get an official Arduino-branded Arduino from your favorite internet retailer if you don't have one already.</p><p><strong>Second</strong>, the Keyes USB board that you have is a direct, exact, clone of the original <a href="https://www.circuitsathome.com/products-page/arduino-shields/usb-host-shield-2-0-for-arduino" rel="nofollow">Circuits@Home</a> shield. If you compare photos of the two you'll see only the company name has changed. This doesn't mean that the Keyes USB product has quality parts, so take that into account. <a href="https://www.circuitsathome.com/products-page/arduino-shields/usb-host-shield-2-0-for-arduino" rel="nofollow">Best thing is to just get the official board to start</a>.</p><p><strong>Lastly</strong>, my code is really, really old. I've been meaning to host my code somewhere else so I can keep it updated. My wife and I are doing another event this Wednesday and after that I have only one project, and that's updating this. So, the best place to start code-wise is the Circuits@Home library example. I just loaded it up a minute ago and it compiles just fine. So if you can get that working you're on the right track. I am working on updating the code to make it simpler and easier but I can't start until after the 13th. </p><p>Goo luck and keep me posted!</p>
<p>Thank you for posting this Instructable. I plan on using it to guide me through my first RC build. I'm still in the part gathering stage but I'll keep you posted as I progress. Hopefully I won't have too many questions for you. Thanks again!</p>
<p>Hi Julezz, please reach out to me if you have any questions. I spent two years researching this thing before I bought the first part simply because I couldn't find anything else really like it on the interwebs. I've had some expensive mishaps with this project last year that really crushed my motivation to work on it. I'm getting back on track now and after May 15th, I'll be dedicating more time and energy into this and sharing/open-sourcing everything I come across. </p>
<p>Thanks for the encouragement! I am in the parts gathering stage right now. I have everything except my USB shield which should be arriving any day now. Last night (around 2am cause that's when you think of these things) it suddenly occurred to me that I'm not sure if the current battery for my powerwheels works. I'll be testing that here shortly. It would be frustrating to not have that piece work because I didn't think to test the battery. I have to admit I'm nervous. I've never done anything like this before. Good to know I can post here if I have questions. Honestly, this weekend might see me getting started. Whooa!</p>
<p>In your code did you add a portion that looks to make sure the controller is still connected? say the batteries die or vehicle goes out of range.</p>
<p>Good call! That was always on the &quot;to-do&quot; list for this project. See, the original design called for a single Arduino connected to a <em>wired</em> Xbox 360 controller communicating wirelessly via Xbee. i picked the Pololu motor controllers because they all used a serial protocol and the Xbee pair would just be a wireless link from Arduino to motor controllers. Well, there was so much electrical noise from the motors that this approach <em>never</em> worked. </p><p>While troubleshooting the problem, I rewrote the code, connected the Arduino directly to the motor controllers and used a wireless 360 controller. It worked perfectly. Then, to my surprise, the range of the 360 controller in open air was over 50 - 75 feet. So that was a double bonus and...well...I just left it like that. </p><p>And oh, believe-you-me, when it loses signal it doesn't stop! I've been to 3 Maker Faires with it and was always close enough to pull the plug, but never needed to. I'm designing my own transmitter/receiver pair specifically for projects like this and will definitely implement a &quot;heartbeat&quot; monitor. Thanks for your comment, I really appreciate it. </p>
How much would you charge for a premade preprogrammed kit to just bolt on and plug up?
<p>Hi friend, amazing work. I have a question, This hardware (http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/MLM-452642616-convertidor-usb-serial-ttl-ftdi-uart-arduino-pic-atmega-avr-_JM) can replace this one &quot;USB host shield&quot;?. Thaks and congratulations!!!</p>
<p>Thanks for the compliments! The link you provided is for a USB-to-Serial board based on a famous chip made by FTDI. Microcontrollers like the Arduino use very simple serial interfaces (TTL, SPI, etc) to communicate with other hardware and our computers use a very complicated serial interface: USB. The FTDI chip translates the communication between our computers and microcontrollers like the Arduino. If you're searching for a substitute for this shield Google &quot;max3421e&quot;. This chip acts as a USB Host to translate USB hardware (mouse, keyboard, thumbdrive, etc) into something the Arduino can understand. Hope this helps!</p>
<p>is there a way to connect the controller to Arduino without the usb shield ?</p>
<p>Unfortunately no. Not for an Xbox controller. Microsoft uses a proprietary 2.4GHz wireless protocol that hasn't been reverse engineered successfully. The easiest way is to capture the data via USB and the shield is just a fancy breakout board for the MAX3421E USB Host Controller chip. This project would have been a lot easier had I used a Bluetooth adapter and the PS3 controller, but the Xbox 360 controller is the best controller in my opinion. <a href="http://www.penny-arcade.com/comic/2002/03/25/ursine-adventures" rel="nofollow">Way better than a grizzly.</a></p>
<p>Hello Friend</p><p>Good job, one question. </p><p>Also you can manually manage ?? as you connected the facility that has the car to work manually and control? </p><p>Excuse my English, I'm using google translator (Spanish-English) </p><p>Thank you</p>
<p>Hi friend, amazing work. I have a question, This hardware (http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/MLM-452642616-convertidor-usb-serial-ttl-ftdi-uart-arduino-pic-atmega-avr-_JM) can replace this one &quot;USB host shield&quot;?. Thaks and congratulations!!!</p>
amazing work. the only thing i did differently was use an aftermarket power window motor and a pot to turn the wheel!
<p>This whole project is awesome. I have recently been planning to do <br>something similar, with the traditional r/c transmitter receiver. But <br>this would much cooler. How does the window motor and pot work? How do <br>you control limits, and does it return to center? Any information would <br>be greatly appreciated. I'm working on a power wheels escalade for my <br>daughter, it's a pretty heavy set up, how would it handle?</p>
we used these for open cv experimentation in highschool
That sounds interesting. In my original conception of this project I was making an autonomous beer cooler to follow me around the beach. That is until I saw the complexity in vision recognition. Any positive/negative experiences with opencv?
its clunky as can be right now and without a serious on board computer its pretty hard to keep a reasonable frame rate. might be better off with a radio based system that could triangulate the position of a key fob or somethin like that
Very cool project! There is a 6 wheel rc cart by blvdminss here on instructables (for Marcaine Art, if you're interested). You're kids have a cool Dad!
Thanks Taz! I have a 2 and 3 year old and they love it. Also thanks for recommending the project by blvdminss. Pretty soon I will replace the lower plastic body of the Jeep with a metal chassis, rubber tires, beefier motors.
Glad you liked it. Please feel free to ask any questions when you get a project started!
This is really cool. I don't know much about the arduino programming but I like this a lot. It would be cool to adapt an old electric wheelchair for a yard cart that could carry heavy weight :-)

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Bio: I'm just a lonely robot trying to find love.
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