Introduction: BLS-1 Battery Adapter for the Olympus E-30 DSLR Using a PS-LBH1

I had a bunch of E-420 batteries but no extra E-30 batteries. So I made a little adapter that allows me to insert the E-420 batteries into the E-30.

I was sure there would be some adapter available to turn the BLS-1 (E-420) battery into a BLM-1 (E-30) battery since they are both Li-ion batteries of the same voltage, but after searching online, I couldn't find one. The closest thing I could find is the PS-LBH1, which takes CR-123A batteries and turns them into a BLM-1. I decided to buy a PS-LBH1, since it already had the proper shape and contacts, and turn it into an adapter for the BLS-1.

For this mod, you'll need:
1 PS-LBH1
1 BLS-1
1 Eye glass Philips-head screw driver
1 Voltmeter
1 Dremel with cut off disk
1 Soldering Iron with solder
1 Drop of super glue.

(Note: I used a canon point and

Step 1: Strip the PS-LBH1

You'll want to start by removing the small screw on the bottom of the PS-LBH1. That will allow you to remove the PCB cover.

Next snap off all of the battery contacts off and remove the PCB. Save all of these.

You will be using the metal from the battery contacts to create new contacts for the BLS-1.

Step 2: Modding the PCB and Case

To make the case accommodate the BLS-1, you'll need to cut a hole for it on the bottom of the PS-LBH1. You'll also want to shave down the sides. I used a dremel and a steady hand. Remove everything except the walls of the adapter. See the images below.

For the PCB, I removed both of the electrical components (which I assume were for voltage regulation). I then soldered on strips of metal from the battery clips so that the +, T, and - match up with the BLS-1 when I slide it in. They almost match up as is, so you don't really need to add much. Just make sure that the contacts can flex a little bit when the battery is inserted and pressing against them.

Use a voltmeter to confirm that you have 7-8V across the terminals with the battery inserted.

You will also need to shave down the inside face of the adapter where the contacts are so that the battery fits completely inside the adapter.

 At this point, it may seem as though the battery is not secure, but once inside the E-30 battery compartment, the compartment lid will ensure that the battery has no where to go. 

Step 3: Put It Together

You'll need to snap off the four small tabs from the inside of the lid of the adapter, and you are almost done. Everything should fit together very nicely now. See the picture below.

The battery in the picture only sticks out of the adapter because the metal contacts I added press on it. When inserted into the E-30, the battery compartment lid presses the battery against the contacts and into the adapter.

If you find it hard to close the lid, shave off material from the inside face on the side with the electrical contacts so that battery fits further into the adapter. It is a game of millimeters. Once the battery can go far enough in, the E-30 battery lid will close with ease. Once this happens, you can use super glue to secure the PCB inside of the adapter case, and you're done. You can now use your BLS-1 batteries inside of your E-30. Instead of keeping and charging two different types of batteries, I can exclusively use BLS-1 batteries for both of my cameras. 

Notes:
Do not try to put the BLS-1 battery into a charger using this adapter. It won't fit. The charger that comes with the E-420 is much faster than the default that comes with the E-30 anyways.

Because the BLS-1 is close in capacity to the BLM-1, you shouldn't see much of a difference in shooting time.

I assume no responsibility if ruin your $800 camera by attempting my mod. There isn't much that can go wrong, but you are on your own if you attempt this and cause a fire. Make sure all of your soldering work is solid and non of the metal contacts can cross. 

Comments

author
txoof made it! (author)2011-08-14

Can you give me some idea of what the circuit looks like inside the LBH? I can't get an LBH where I live for a reasonable price, so I'm fashioning my own so I can run my e-510 off of a regulated DC power supply. I mistakenly thought that the LBH1 didn't have the "T" terminal and built my wooden dummy without it. It turns out that the camera expects something very specific from that terminal.
If you can give me some idea what is going on there, I would greatly appreciate it! Even just a picture of the PCB, or a hint as to what the components are would be a HUGE help.

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