Introduction: BSB Paracord Jig

I call it the BSB because it stands for, Bilaterally Symmetrical Paracord Jig. The second B is because it was the second plan I came up with. It is a simple jig to help you create paracord bracelets and possibly lanyards up to thirteen inches. This first design (Model A) I drafted on Google Sketchup was solid. Later I realized in the process of building it that the measurements were incorrect due to false information given to me from the store I had purchased. But I kept going with it and created model B using Sketchup to get an idea what it would look like.

The total amount of money spent was around $17 after taxes for the materials alone. If you can avoid Ace Hardware then you can cut that cost in half.

Step 1: Tools Needed

1. Something to measure. (Tape Measure, Ruler, Square)

2. Something to create good lines (T-Square, Triangle, etc.)

3. Something to drill holes. (Drill, Drill press, Drill Bits)

4. Something to cut with. (Hack saw, Circular Saw, Jig Saw, etc.)

5. Something to sand wood. (Sand Paper, Sanding Block, etc.)

6. Something to hold things together. (C-clamps, Bench Vice, etc.)

Step 2: Materials Needed

Ignore the upper left corner, those three are what I also bought to make the needle, for braiding.

  1. (2) 1''x2''x6' Select Pine (Caution: may not be actual size that the store claims.) I came to find out in the middle of this project that the actual dimensions are 3/4''x1.5''x6'. 1"x2"x8'' might be a little more worth it. You can use 1x2 Faring Strips it is cheaper by a few bucks, but again I recommend you measure it.
  1. (1) 1/4''-20 Wingnut, can be Hex Nut or a Knob. I prefer brass knurling knob, but couldn't find one.
  2. (3) 1/4"-20x4" Bolts
  3. (2) 1/4'' Fender Washers
  4. (4) 1/4'' Washers
  5. (2) 1/4"-20 Hex nuts or wingnuts
  6. (4-8) 8x2 Wood Screws
  7. Wood Glue
  8. Sand Paper Assortment

Step 3: Cut the Wood

  • Cut (4) sections/pieces at 16'' in length. For a longer track cut them longer. For a shorter track cut them shorter. It will shouldn't effect any other measurements. Remember to measure, mark, cut, and measure again.
  • For the feet you will want at most (2) 4.75'' sections, I cut them at 4.5''
  • Then for the P-clip mounts (One is the slider and the other is permanent) I cut (6) blocks total. Each one was cut at 3.25" Depending on how tall you want the mounts to stand, will vary on how many blocks you will need to cut.

Step 4: Glue and Screw

  • The P-clip mounts need glue applied in between, then clamped together. The glue I used recommended 30 minute wait time but I gave it 5-10 minutes and it was solid. The same can be done for the rails. As you can see from my photos I had per-drilled holes using a 1/8th drill bit to prevent it from splitting when I went to add the screws. After drilling I glued it and followed immediately by screwing in two screws. Each screw is positioned 2'' from the ends and 3/4'' from the side.
  • Before I took the clamps off of what is now two taller blocks, I made my marks on the P-clip mounts. You can do it before or after. The one block will be permanently mounted. This one will need the two holes drilled with a 1/8th drill bit and worked my way up to a 15/64th drill bit so the bolts can slide through. Those holes are positioned 3/4'' from each end and on the center line (halfway point on the block.)
  • The Slider block only needs one hole drilled at dead center, starting with small bits working the way up to 15/64th bit. That position for this size of wood is 1-3/8'' across and 3/4'' down.

Step 5: Assemble

  • Now is a great time to do some sanding to ensure the slider can move with some ease. After that you could stain it or whatever. I opted out on that. If you decide to in the future then you should be able to dismount the two mounts to do so.
  • If you couldn't figure out how to assemble it, here is the order for the slider block.
  • Bolt
  • Fender Washer
  • Wingnut, Knob, or whatever you choose to use.
  • Slider Block
  • Fender Washer
  • For the other block it goes in this order.
  • Bolt
  • Washer
  • Rails
  • Block
  • Washer
  • Nut and tighten down.

Almost done all that is left is the feet. Both of those need holes per-drilled at the center line (3/4") and 1" inch from the ends of each block them self. The placement is up to you really but I mounted them 3'' from the ends of the rails, on the bottom side of course. The one closest to the slider will need a groove cut into it. To do that you can use a chisel, dremel, hack saw, etc. to make some relief cuts and then chisel it out.

EDIT: 1/3/16 Later on I went out and bought the hardware to install the P-clamps to hold the buckles. I posted some new pictures showing what I used. I tried to make a paracord bracelet and had to redo it 4 times. I would recommend giving an extra 2 inches in length to whatever wrist size you are doing it at. Other than that it works great , is strong, doesn't slide around. I have no idea how I would be able to do it with only two hands and no jig. Thankyou for reading. If you have and questions and comments please do.

Comments

author
seamster (author)2015-12-15

This jig looks good!

Do you have any photos showing how it is used? That would be great to see.

author
ForrestW (author)seamster2015-12-17

Thank you. Unfortunately I do not have any videos but I do know a site that gives tutorials on a variety of knots and bracelet styles. Here is the link:

http://www.boredparacord.com/pages/videos

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