Introduction: BTS-Omnicron Submarine

This is a guide to help you build an underwater PVC submersible.

Step 1: Gather Your Materials

The first step in a successful submarine build is to gather the necessary materials.

Gather the following materials:

  • 15 feet of ½ inch outer diameter
  • PVC pipe 6 90 degree elbow
  • ½ inch PVC pipe connectors
  • 6 ½ inch PVC pipe T connectors
  • 6 motors
  • 80 feet of cat5e ethernet cable
  • 6 sets of motor waterproofing stickers
  • A spool of Solder
  • 6 Film Canisters
  • 2 alcohol prep swab
  • Sandpaper
  • 12 Volt DC Power Supply
  • 6 motor shaft sized propellers
  • 1 small bottle of superglue
  • 6 DPDT switches
  • 10 feet of cable with to leads

Step 2: Gather Your Tools

The second step in a successful submarine build is to gather the necessary tools.

Gather the following tools:

  • Pipe Cutters
  • Wire Strippers
  • Rubber Mallet
  • Soldering Iron
  • A Spool of Electrical Solder

Step 3: How to Use the Pipe Cutters

The picture demonstrates how you should cut pipe using the pipe cutters.

IMPORTANT SIDE NOTE: When referring to an "open end" it means the end of a piece that is not connected to any connectors or is not capped off.

Step 4: Cut PVC for the Long Sides of the Submarine

The next step in the submarine build is to cut the PVC pipe pieces for the long sides of the submarine.

First you must cut two pieces of PVC measuring 90 cm in length using the pipe cutters off of the original 15 foot piece of PVC. For each 90 cm piece of PVC, cut them into 3 separate equal sections all measuring 30 cm in length using the pipe cutters. The parts that these will be used as is highlighted in the image.

A link to a google drive folder with all build picture documentation can be found below for reference:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5W3kgA0Ye...

Step 5: Cut PVC for the Short Sides of the Submarine

The next step in the submarine build is to cut the PVC pipe pieces for the short sides of the submarine. To complete this step you must cut two pieces of PVC pipe measuring 45 cm in length off of the originally 15 foot piece of PVC using the pipe cutters.

A link to a google drive folder with all build picture documentation can be found below for reference:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5W3kgA0Ye...

Step 6: Cut PVC for the Supports

The next step in the submarine build is to cut the PVC pipe pieces for the pieces of PVC that will support the pieces that lift the game pieces.

To complete this step you must first cut two pieces of PVC measuring 45 cm in length off of the originally 15 foot length using the pipe cutters. Then, using the pipe cutters, you must cut each 45 cm long piece into two separate and equal pieces which should each measure 22.5 cm long. The way in which these pieces will fit into the frame is highlighted in the image.

A link to a google drive folder with all build picture documentation can be found below for reference:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5W3kgA0Ye...

Step 7: Cut PVC for Half of the Hook

The next step in the submarine build is to cut the PVC pipe pieces for the part that will hold objects while underwater.

To do this, you must cut two pieces of PVC, each measuring 35 cm each, off of what is remaining of the originally 15 feet of PVC using the pipe cutters. The way in which these will be integrated into the sub is shown in the image.

A link to a google drive folder with all build picture documentation can be found below for reference:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5W3kgA0Ye...

Step 8: Cut PVC for Remaining Half of the Hook

The next step in the submarine build is to cut the PVC pipe pieces for the pieces of PVC that will actually be hooking onto the objects.

To complete this step, you must cut two pieces of PVC, each measuring 25 cm, off of what is left of the originally 15 feet of PVC using the pipe cutters. The way in which they will integrate into the submarine is highlighted in the image.

A link to a google drive folder with all build picture documentation can be found below for reference:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5W3kgA0Ye...

Step 9: Assemble One Long Side of the Sub

The next step in the sub build is to assemble one of the long sides of the sub.

To start off, get 3 of the 30 cm pieces that were cut earlier and connect then together using two of the Tee connectors as demonstrated in the image above.

Make sure that when you connect the pieces using the Tees, the pieces are inserted into the long ends of the connector as to form a straight line.

After the three 30 cm pieces are attached using the Tee connectors, attach a 90 degree elbow to both ends of the now connected pieces as shown in the image.

A link to a google drive folder with all build picture documentation can be found below for reference:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5W3kgA0Ye...

Step 10: Assemble the Remaining Long Side of the Submarine

The next step is to assemble the corresponding side to the one you just made in the previous step.

Using the remaining 3 30 cm pieces of PVC, 2 Tee connectors, and 2 90 degree angle connectors, assemble them together using the same instructions as described in the previous step.

A link to a google drive folder with all build picture documentation can be found below for reference:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5W3kgA0Ye...

Step 11: Assemble the Inside Supports

The next step in the sub build is to assemble the inside supports.

Complete this step by taking two of the previously cut 22.5 cm pieces and connecting them together using a Tee connector by inserting them into the two longer ends of the connector as to form a straight line.'

Repeat this process to produce an identical inside support piece.

A link to a google drive folder with all build picture documentation can be found below for reference:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5W3kgA0Ye...

Step 12: Assemble the Hook

The next step in the submarine build is to assemble together the hook that will be used to hold objects while underwater.

Take one of the previously cut 35 cm piece of PVC and insert one end into a 90 degree elbow.

Then, take a previously cut 25 cm piece and insert it into the open end of the 90 degree elbow that is currently attached to the 35 cm piece.

You should now have an L shaped piece with one end being 35 cm and one end being 25 cm. Take the piece of the L which is 25 cm and insert a 1/2 inch PVC cap onto the open end.

Repeat this process to produce another identical hook.

A link to a google drive folder with all build picture documentation can be found below for reference:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5W3kgA0Ye...

Step 13: Assemble the Short Sides

After following all of the previous steps, you should now only have two cut pieces left which measure 45 cm. These are the pieces that will be used as the sort sides and do not require assembly.

A link to a google drive folder with all build picture documentation can be found below for reference:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5W3kgA0Ye...

Step 14: Put the Frame Together

Now we are going to put the entire frame together using the pieces that we assembled in previous steps.

Throughout this assembly it is required to refer to the images for guidance.

Take one of the two long side pieces that we previously assembled. Insert a short side piece (45 cm piece) into one of the 90 degree elbows of the long side piece.

Now, take the remaining short side piece (45 cm piece) and insert it into the one remaining open 90 degree elbow of the long side piece. You should now have one long side piece with two short side pieces connected to it. Each short side piece should be connected at an end of the long side piece with a 90 degree elbow.

Next, take an inside support piece and insert one of the open ends into one of the tee connectors of the long side piece. Then, repeat this process with the remaining inside support, inserting it into the remaining open tee connector on the long side piece.

Now you should have an assembly which has a long side piece with two sort side pieces connected to both ends using 90 degree elbows and two inside support pieces connected to it using tee connectors.

The only unassembled parts you should have left at this point is one long side piece and two hook pieces. The next step in the assembling the frame is to connect the remaining long side piece to the currently assembled parts. To do this, simultaneously insert both open ends of the inside support pieces to the open tee connectors on the long side piece and insert the open ends of the short side pieces into the 90 degree connectors of the long side piece.

You should now have a rectangular shaped frame with two inside supports in the middle.

Now, place the partially assembled frame onto a flat surface, making sure that the frame is sitting mostly flush to the surface. Then, turn the tee connectors found in the middle of each inside support piece upwards, so that the only remaining open end of the connector is pointing out and away from the frame. Then, take one of the two hook pieces that we previously assembled and insert the open end of it into the open end of one of the inside support tee connectors. Align the hook so that it is parallel to the inside support. Repeat the process of inserting the hook into the tee connector with the remaining hook and remaining open inside support tee connector.

You should now have a frame built that looks like the images.

A link to a google drive folder with all build picture documentation can be found below for reference:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5W3kgA0Ye...

Step 15: Add Stickers

Start by putting the stickers on the circular sides of the motor, make sure that the leads on the side opposite the motor shaft are where the flat sides of the sticker go. Put the rectangular sticker on the curved side making sure that all the holes are covered

Step 16: Wire Stripping

Strip the casing of the cable 2 inches on one side and 1 inch on the other side. Strip the wires that are now exposed from the larger cable.

Step 17: Attaching the Wires

Solder the the side of the wire with 1 inch exposed to the leads, the colors should be on the same sides for every motor. Poke a hole in middle of the lid of the film canister and in the middle of the base of the film canister.

Step 18: Wax Insulation

Roll your toilet wax into 10 1 cm diameter balls. Smush a ball of wax onto each side of the motor making sure that the leads are covered.

Step 19: Finish Assembly of the Body

Pull the wire through the hole in the base of the canister and push the motor the rest of the way into the film canister. Put the lid on pushing the shaft through the hole in the lid.

Step 20: Attaching the Propeller

Wipe down the motor with alcohol wipes to rid of excess wax. Sand down the shaft of the motor to get rid of imperfections and wax. Wipe down the shaft with an alcohol wipe. Put super glue inside the hole in the middle of the propeller. Slide the propeller onto the shaft and hold for 20 seconds. Make 5 more motors.

Step 21: Switches & Soldering

The next step goes into making switches to control the motors. You take the wires and strip the ends about 2.5 inches and have the eight colored wires and strip about 2 centimeters off of the originally stripped wires to where you see the copper. The switch has six prongs and you take six out of the eight wires and loop them inside the prong hole, then solder around it. To solder you have to bring the tip of soldering iron and the soldering wire together and have have the quick drying substance on the copper. This will make sure that the currents can flow through nicely. You’ll have two wires left, you won’t do anything with those yet.

Step 22: Switches & Soldering Cont.

Next we'll take take that other side of the wire and strip about 2 inches to reveal the colored wires. Then twist whatever colors 1 and 6 together and also 2 and 5. Then strip about a centimeter to reveal the copper and then solder the two individual pairs on the ends.

Step 23: Testing Switches

Next we take those two middle wires and strip the ends about one centimeter. Then connect those to the leads while the power source is connected. Then test out your switch to see if it works both ways.

Step 24: Step 24: Making a Switch Board

To make a switch board, first you have to cut down a thin piece of wood. Make it 5 inches by 3 inches, so it is easy to hold.

Next, you’ll need to drill holes into the piece of wood. The amount of holes should correspond with the amount of switches you have; you'll need one hole per switch. Place the holes where they are preferable to you, and then slip the switches into the holes.

Finally, you'll need to put a bolt around the switch and screw it in place. If necessary, you can also tape the base of the switch to the boars, which will guarantee that it stays in place.

Labeling the switches is also recommended, so you don't get them confused.

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