This is a 3d printed lamp that looks like a balloon.

The lamp has a fin design that creates light and shadow affect.

There are holes in the top of the balloon that allow little shapes of light to project onto the ceiling.

The lamp is printed in three parts; the lampshade, the lamp lower and the cell triple base (so called as it holds three LED stars).

The lamp requires some soldering and a little assembly

Step 1: 3D Print the Lamp Parts

There are three STL files (attached) that need to be printed.

I print the lamp lower and the cell triple base together, these take about 4 hours

I print the lampshade separately with a brim this takes about 12 hours

So far I have printed this lamp in PLA

Step 2: Bill of Materials

In addition to the 3D printed parts the following items are needed

It requires the following components.

Three 1W watt LEDs

Three heat sink LED stars

Thermal adhesive to attach the LEDs to the heat sinks

A SPST toggle switch

A 12v 1000ma power supply

A power socket to match the power supply

Three M3 screws

A 2W 10 Ohm ballast resistor ( you may need a different value based on your LEDs

You can calculate the value of the resistor using the website below

Step 3: Attach the LEDs to the Heat Sink Stars

You can buy preassembled LED stars or you can buy the LED's separately and attach them to the stars.

If you are attaching your own LEDs to the heat sink, you can either use surface mount paste and a reflow oven. Alternatively I used some thermal adhesive compound to connect the LED to the star and then soldered the leads to the pads.

Ensure you orient the LEDs the same way round on each pad, I used a multimeter with a diode check function to make sure they were all wired the same way.

Once you factor in the thermal adhesive, you are not really saving much money assembling your own stars, unless you are making a number of lamps.

Step 4: Wire the Stars in Series in the Triple Cell Base

Once you have three stars wired with LEDs, you need to wire the three pads in series into the triple cell base.

Pre solder a positive and negative pad on each star, then place each star into the triple cell base.

Cut some short lengths of wire to connect the pads and solder the positive of one cell to the negative of the next. Only do this connecting each one to the next, do connect the last pad back to the first.

Add a longer positive wire to the first pad and a longer negative wire to the last pad.

Pass these wires through the central hole in the triple cell base through to the under side.

Step 5: Wire the Switch, Ballast and Socket

Solder the positive terminal of power socket to one terminal of the toggle switch.

Solder the negative terminal of the power socket to the ballast resistor

use heat shrink to insulate the connections

Solder the positive from the LEDs to the other terminal of the toggle switch

Solder the negative from the LEDs to the other end of the ballast resistor

use heat shrink to insulate the connections

At this point I powered up the circuit for an hour and used a thermometer to measure the peak temperature on the back of the heat sink stars. It peaked at 48 degrees centigrade.

Step 6: Circuit Diagram and Ballast Calculation

Badly drawn diagram and calculations, there are many web sites that will help calculate the ballast resistor required

Step 7: Tap Lampshade and Attach Other Parts

You could glue the lampshade, but I designed the STL file with three M3 tap size holes.

Using a hand tap, tap the three holes with an M3x0.6

Then insert the triple cell base into the lampshade and use three M3 screws to attach it.

Insert the toggle switch and power socket into the lamp lower part (the holes are different sizes)

Apply a few drops of super glue to the underside of the cell triple base where it mates with the lower part.

Assemble the triple cell base and lamp lower parts. ensuring that the three holes on the base align with the three M3 screws so that the lampshade can be removed .

That's it

Step 8: Finished Lamp

This was designed using Autodesk Inventor, the complex organic finned design was easily achieved using the sweep function. The balloon shape was achieved using a cutting revolve shape once the sweeps had been completed.

<p>Wow, that is beautiful. Excellent job.</p>
awesome! !
<p>This is so cool! </p>

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