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Step 3Frame constructuion - humble beginnings
At this point you have the ability to measure for the final fitment of the bamboo frame members. You should have chosen by now what piece is going where. You've heat treated and rough cut to length the pieces you will use.
Since the frame members are cut out, you can take a measurement spanning the gap on the frame, either with a measuring device or simply on the bamboo itself. I used the later method and just went by feel and sight. I made my cuts with a cut off wheel on the dremel tool. I outlined my cuts with masking tape and went to cutting. After this I rough fit the pieces to make sure I had everything close.
After the cuts were made and the bamboo frame member was cut to length, I needed to shape the cut ends to fit the tubes they were to bond with. This entire process for me is trial and error. You may or may not be more inclined to measure twice and cut once - but I'm just impatient! Again out came the dremel tool, this time with a sanding drum, not the sanding disc, but the taller one with the sanding surcface on the sides rather than the top surface. I did my fish-mouth notches this way. I don't have expensive tools like they would have in a metal shop or a mufler shop to make these cuts the proper way - if you have access to those pipecutting tools, it'll make this step that much more precise. That said, I take this part slow and am able to get a very precise and good fit!
See rough fit up photos below:
Note: Something I forgot to mention previously -
SAND YOUR BAMBOO AFTER YOU HEAT TREAT IT! There is a waxy film that builds up as you put the flame to the bamboo. YOU MUST GET RID OF THIS, or your resin will never stick to the bamboo. Plus you should throroughly clean any surface (in this case sand too) that you plan on gluing or bonding to any other thing in order to get the best possible bond!
Since the frame members are cut out, you can take a measurement spanning the gap on the frame, either with a measuring device or simply on the bamboo itself. I used the later method and just went by feel and sight. I made my cuts with a cut off wheel on the dremel tool. I outlined my cuts with masking tape and went to cutting. After this I rough fit the pieces to make sure I had everything close.
After the cuts were made and the bamboo frame member was cut to length, I needed to shape the cut ends to fit the tubes they were to bond with. This entire process for me is trial and error. You may or may not be more inclined to measure twice and cut once - but I'm just impatient! Again out came the dremel tool, this time with a sanding drum, not the sanding disc, but the taller one with the sanding surcface on the sides rather than the top surface. I did my fish-mouth notches this way. I don't have expensive tools like they would have in a metal shop or a mufler shop to make these cuts the proper way - if you have access to those pipecutting tools, it'll make this step that much more precise. That said, I take this part slow and am able to get a very precise and good fit!
See rough fit up photos below:
Note: Something I forgot to mention previously -
SAND YOUR BAMBOO AFTER YOU HEAT TREAT IT! There is a waxy film that builds up as you put the flame to the bamboo. YOU MUST GET RID OF THIS, or your resin will never stick to the bamboo. Plus you should throroughly clean any surface (in this case sand too) that you plan on gluing or bonding to any other thing in order to get the best possible bond!
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p.s. Beautiful work these frames, excellent photos/explanations. I cant wait to get started
And thank you! If you have any questions along the way, feel free to ask!
And they are; were you measuring inner or outer diameter of the bamboo? And if I have a close (but too small) fit, is it safe to shave off a bit (less than 1/8 in.) of the inner core to make a better joint, or does that compromise the bamboo?
To be honest, I haven't even picked any supplies up yet, but I love summer projects and this right up my alley. Can't wait!