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I have a portable bandsaw that I absolutely love- it's one of my favorite and most useful tools. Cutting small pieces of metal with any degree of precision can be difficult however. What I needed was a stand to turn it into a benchtop saw.

This is a super simple low cost stand that is very easy to make and can be built in an afternoon.

Let's get started!

Step 1: Tools and Materials

Tools needed

Portable bandsaw- mine is the DeWalt DWM 120 model

Drill

Various size drill bits

3/4" forstner or spade bit

Materials

2" wood screws

Wood glue

2ea 1" x 4" x 14" long wood board (I used pine)

2ea 1" x 4" x 5 1/2" long wood board

1ea 4" x 4" x 20 1/2" long post

1ea 4" x 4" x 9 1/2" long post

2ea 8" x 8" x 3/4" plywood triangle

1ea 12" x 12" x 1/4" thick Aluminum plate- I used a piece of salvaged Aluminum I found but you could also use a thicker piece of wood. Aluminum plate can be purchased from Online Metals.

Power strip with switch- make sure it can handle the saw amperage

Large zip tie

Step 2: Build the Base

To build the base take the longer 4" x 4" post and set it behind the shorter 4" x 4" post as shown in the first photo. Take one of the plywood triangles and glue and screw the triangle to the posts as shown.

Remove the D shaped handle from the saw and set the saw next to the upper post. Note where the handle mounting hole is located. Glue and screw one of the 1" x 4" x 5 1/2" wood pieces to the top of the post so it covers the handle mounting hole. Now flip the stand over and attach the second upper wood piece and plywood triangle to the opposite side of the stand. The two upper pieces of wood will be used to mount the saw to the stand.

Step 3: Mount the Saw

Begin by drilling a hole where you want the handle mount to be located- this hole should go through both upper wood pieces. Test fit the handle mounting bolt in the wood pieces- it needs to go all the way through both wood pieces.

Since my saw bolt wasn't long enough I used a forstner bit to make a counterbore for the bolt head so the bolt would reach all the way through. Once this was done I was able to hold the saw in position and slip the bolt through the handle bolt hole to secure the saw to the stand.

Once I was happy with the saw fit I removed it and added the feet to support the stand by attaching the 1" x 4" x 14" long wood boards to the bottom 4" x 4" post using glue and screws.

Step 4: Add a Base Plate

In order for the saw to be useful a base plate to support material during cutting needs to be added. I used a 12" square of 1/4" thick Aluminum plate to make the base plate- this was a piece of scrap material that I salvaged from an old casting machine. Lots of different materials could be used to make this but the most important thing is that it be rigid.

Remove the blade foot from the saw and set it on top of the base plate. Use the foot as a template to mark a line where the blade needs to fit through and mark the position of the foot mounting holes. Now drill two holes in the plate in order to mount the plate to the saw. I made a countersink for each hole with a drill bit so the mounting screws would sit flush with the top of the plate. Once that was done I cut a slot for the blade and mounted the plate to the saw.

Wrap a large zip tie around the back post and the saw trigger. Now mount a switched power strip to the front of the forward stand foot and plug the saw into the power strip. Now when you turn on the power strip the saw will turn on.

All done!

I've been using my saw like this for over a year and it's been great. I can cut through any material just like before when holding the saw by hand but now I have a much greater degree of control. Cutting small pieces is no longer a problem at all!

If you have any questions when making your own stand please don't hesitate to ask!

<p>Nicely done! Any concerns about generating too much force on the front of the base plate that might strip out the two screws fastening it to the saw? Even just a couple of posts out towards the front would offer support.</p>
<p>I picked up my first welder and needed a project to learn the basics so I made something similar out of some scrap iron I had laying around.</p>
<p>Cool! The nice thing about welding up a metal one is that you can use the saw to cut the metal tubing. :)</p>
<p>it's crude but works real slick. Other than the time to remove the 'table' piece, pulling the saw in and out of the base is as easy as picking it up.</p>
<p>Care to make (and link) an instructable on how you made it?</p>
<p>I'm considering it for the metal's contest. I have one 'big' project I've been trying for weeks to add one last pizazz touch to before listing anything, but they have to be posted by this weekend so if I can't get the finess add-on to work, I may need to post it as is.<br>I'll probably post a couple others as well since they allow more than one entry. I'm not sure if this will be one of them.</p>
<p>you get better tools over there, I have never seen a band saw like this one.</p>
<p>GrahamH - I would have to agree. Being a bit of a tools enthusiast, I have never seen in all the catalogues I see in the UK, a portable bandsaw, or at least a small one.</p><p>I'm wondering what advantage at that size, it offers over other methods - circular saw, jigsaw, demolition saw? The nearest I can think of are pipecutters that are basically powered hacksaws used for 2&quot;-3&quot; steel barrel.</p><p>There are of course the &quot;mini&quot; tools like Proxxon or the larger on site lumber bandsaw which could be called portable.</p><p>The better choice of tools in USA is part of the &quot;can do&quot; culture, whereas in the UK, getting the hands dirty tends to be left for someone else to do.</p>
<p>I had to get mine off Amazon and theu only make 110v ones apparently so you need a site/ industrial voltage convertor box for the UK</p>
Great step by step description. I have a new Milwaukee PORT-A-BAND and want to build a stand for it. Have looked at many DIY stands but this is the most practical application so far.
<p>I don't understand, what is supporting the base plate? It appears to be floating in mid-air. Thanks.</p>
<p>The base plate is bolted to the saw where the original blade foot was attached.</p>
<p>Thanks. I take it that the hole in each corner of the base plate is of no consequence, and is simply related to its scrap source status?</p>
<p>Yep!</p>
<p>Looks like it's mounted over the blade foot, via countersunk screws. See the two holes in the base plate, near the saw blade? Right there.</p>
<p>Nice sturdy stand. Really enhances the potential usage of the bandsaw.</p>
<p>Great job! I love anything that will get more out or tools. You have inspired me to do something simular with my belt sander.</p>
<p>Awesome- thanks!</p>
<p>Great bandsaw stand, your stand looks sturdy and I life that it is moveable. Your instructions and photos were easy to follow. I will add this project to my todo list for my workshop. </p>
<p>Thanks! It's worked really well for me so far. If you ever have any questions or need help just let me know.</p>
<p>Nice bandsaw stand! I love being able to use tools by hand or clamped down! </p>
<p>Thanks- glad you like it!</p>
<p>Good design, these saw types are much more versatile when you can put the work to the tool as well as tool to the work. Harbor Freight just had a special on their latest version for under $100 but is now back to regular price:</p><p><a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/10-Amp-Deep-Cut-Variable-Speed-Band-Saw-Kit-62800.html">http://www.harborfreight.com/10-Amp-Deep-Cut-Varia...</a></p><p>Next time it comes around, I think I'm gonna go for it and this stand, thanks for the post.</p>
<p>Thanks! Yep, having a stand for it makes it so much more useful and it's really easy to remove it should I ever need to take the saw to the work.</p>
<p>How good does it cut aluminum?</p>
<p>Extremely well. I've cut through 1&quot; thick plate and 2&quot; round bar stock no problem.</p>

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Bio: I'm a former bicycle industry designer turned professional jeweler. I like working with my hands and am happiest when I'm in the shop ... More »
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