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Step 3Solder master board
On the bottom of the board, note that socket PIN1 is on the right, VCC rail is adjacent to socket pins 1-14, and the GND rail is adjacent to pins 15-28. The rails are labeled in the photos below.
Solder the pieces in place:
–28-pin DIP socket.
Remove socket PIN11 from the socket. We will not be using this pin and it gets in the way.
PIN1 of the socket should be in the 2nd row of the PCB on the left (2-hole) side. This saves the first row for the LED, (yes, I learned this the hard way). Solder only the corner pins of the socket at this time. The remainder will be soldered later.
–The oscillator is a large piece that just barely fits in my bar. For a better fit, the leads on Osc1 are notched so that they rest on the board. Trim those notches off, so that the base of the oscillator slides all the way down to the board. Place Osc1 next to pins 9, 10, and 11 on the socket (Either direction is fine). Solder PIN1 of Osc1 to connect it to PIN9 of the socket. Solder a jumper, sharing the hole with the middle PIN2 of Osc1 to the ground rail. Finally, arch the uncut lead of PIN3 of Osc1 and PIN10 of the socket together and solder them both in place.
–Solder the remaining pins of the socket.
–C1 to socket pins 7 and 8 (Either direction is fine).
Before trimming the leads, bend the lead of C1 connected to pin 7 across to the VCC rail and trim to length. Solder in place. Add a piece of insulation to the other pin of C1 connected to socket PIN8 long enough to reach the ground rail. Trim to length and solder in place.
–C2 to socket pins 20 and 22 (Either direction is fine) in the outer most holes of the PCB. This will allow room for the accel jumpers later. Before trimming the leads of C2, bend the lead connected to socket PIN22 over to ground, trim to length and solder in place. Bend the other lead of C2 connected to socket PIN20 over to PIN21, trim to length and solder in place.
–Solder jumper from socket PIN20 over GND rail to VCC rail.
-- Solder Accelerometer
The voltage regulator on the accel saves us from having to add a separate power supply circuit. The Accel VIN pin is powered directly from the battery. Then the regulated 3.3V on the Accel powers the VCC rail on the board.
Test all junctions for connectivity and shorts. If the board checks out this far, you're ready for the accelerometer. If not, start over with a new board and parts. Mistakes get expensive at this point. Short GS2 on accelerometer by adding a jumper between the two holes labeled GS2. This provides medium sensitivity of plus or minus 4 Gs. Unfortunately, there is not enough room in the handlebar to use the provided jumper.
Solder Accel pins next to the socket. On the top side of the board, connect Accel analog output to the A2D pins. Leave no excess wire here. These wires should nestle tightly between the socket and C2.
–Jumper Accel z to pin 28
–Jumper Accel y to pin 27
–Jumper Accel x to pin 26
On the bottom side of the board, solder Accel 3.3 to the VCC rail. Solder a
jumper Accel GND to the GND rail,
Solder one end of a flexible 6-inch lead Accel VIN. This will eventually connect to the bar end switch S2. We will trim to length and attach the other end later.
Solder one end of a flexible 2-inch wire to the ground rail. This will connect the negative battery terminal to ground.
Solder the pieces in place:
–28-pin DIP socket.
Remove socket PIN11 from the socket. We will not be using this pin and it gets in the way.
PIN1 of the socket should be in the 2nd row of the PCB on the left (2-hole) side. This saves the first row for the LED, (yes, I learned this the hard way). Solder only the corner pins of the socket at this time. The remainder will be soldered later.
–The oscillator is a large piece that just barely fits in my bar. For a better fit, the leads on Osc1 are notched so that they rest on the board. Trim those notches off, so that the base of the oscillator slides all the way down to the board. Place Osc1 next to pins 9, 10, and 11 on the socket (Either direction is fine). Solder PIN1 of Osc1 to connect it to PIN9 of the socket. Solder a jumper, sharing the hole with the middle PIN2 of Osc1 to the ground rail. Finally, arch the uncut lead of PIN3 of Osc1 and PIN10 of the socket together and solder them both in place.
–Solder the remaining pins of the socket.
–C1 to socket pins 7 and 8 (Either direction is fine).
Before trimming the leads, bend the lead of C1 connected to pin 7 across to the VCC rail and trim to length. Solder in place. Add a piece of insulation to the other pin of C1 connected to socket PIN8 long enough to reach the ground rail. Trim to length and solder in place.
–C2 to socket pins 20 and 22 (Either direction is fine) in the outer most holes of the PCB. This will allow room for the accel jumpers later. Before trimming the leads of C2, bend the lead connected to socket PIN22 over to ground, trim to length and solder in place. Bend the other lead of C2 connected to socket PIN20 over to PIN21, trim to length and solder in place.
–Solder jumper from socket PIN20 over GND rail to VCC rail.
-- Solder Accelerometer
The voltage regulator on the accel saves us from having to add a separate power supply circuit. The Accel VIN pin is powered directly from the battery. Then the regulated 3.3V on the Accel powers the VCC rail on the board.
Test all junctions for connectivity and shorts. If the board checks out this far, you're ready for the accelerometer. If not, start over with a new board and parts. Mistakes get expensive at this point. Short GS2 on accelerometer by adding a jumper between the two holes labeled GS2. This provides medium sensitivity of plus or minus 4 Gs. Unfortunately, there is not enough room in the handlebar to use the provided jumper.
Solder Accel pins next to the socket. On the top side of the board, connect Accel analog output to the A2D pins. Leave no excess wire here. These wires should nestle tightly between the socket and C2.
–Jumper Accel z to pin 28
–Jumper Accel y to pin 27
–Jumper Accel x to pin 26
On the bottom side of the board, solder Accel 3.3 to the VCC rail. Solder a
jumper Accel GND to the GND rail,
Solder one end of a flexible 6-inch lead Accel VIN. This will eventually connect to the bar end switch S2. We will trim to length and attach the other end later.
Solder one end of a flexible 2-inch wire to the ground rail. This will connect the negative battery terminal to ground.
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