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Step 5Prepare master bar end
Test fit the master board into the handlebar. The board, resting on the bottom of the bar, should be below the middle.
Orient the bar end to the desired angle. In my case I wanted the "B" to be upright. With a hobby knife cut away the top portion where the board will sit, up to the second rib of the bar end as shown in the diagram below. This will provide a platform for the PCB.
Drill a 13/64-inch hole for the LED D1 through the center of the bar end. This size allows the back ring of the LED to seat nicely against the inside of the bar end.
Delicately remove the rubber behind the face of the bar end with a hobby knife for the switch to fit snugly. The back surface of the face will provide a surface to glue the switch to and leave a nice finished look.
Bend the leads of the surface mount switch flat. (You may not need to do this, depending on your switch.)
Install the switch. Hot glue or epoxy the switch in place with leads pointing toward the PCB, leaving the switch accessible from the bottom. Use the glue sparingly to avoid gumming up the switch mechanism.
Drill two tiny holes through ribs to provide wire access to the leads of the switch. Well-placed holes will make soldering easier. Align the holes with the middle lead and an outside lead. The holes should be next to the shaft of the bar end so they don’t inhibit installation on the bike later. If you don’t have a tiny drill bit, a wedge cut with a hobby knife will serve the same function.
Trim jumper from socket pin4 so that it just reaches the switch through the recently drilled hole. Delicately solder in place.
In the other hole, insert a 6-inch jumper and solder to the switch.
Orient the bar end to the desired angle. In my case I wanted the "B" to be upright. With a hobby knife cut away the top portion where the board will sit, up to the second rib of the bar end as shown in the diagram below. This will provide a platform for the PCB.
Drill a 13/64-inch hole for the LED D1 through the center of the bar end. This size allows the back ring of the LED to seat nicely against the inside of the bar end.
Delicately remove the rubber behind the face of the bar end with a hobby knife for the switch to fit snugly. The back surface of the face will provide a surface to glue the switch to and leave a nice finished look.
Bend the leads of the surface mount switch flat. (You may not need to do this, depending on your switch.)
Install the switch. Hot glue or epoxy the switch in place with leads pointing toward the PCB, leaving the switch accessible from the bottom. Use the glue sparingly to avoid gumming up the switch mechanism.
Drill two tiny holes through ribs to provide wire access to the leads of the switch. Well-placed holes will make soldering easier. Align the holes with the middle lead and an outside lead. The holes should be next to the shaft of the bar end so they don’t inhibit installation on the bike later. If you don’t have a tiny drill bit, a wedge cut with a hobby knife will serve the same function.
Trim jumper from socket pin4 so that it just reaches the switch through the recently drilled hole. Delicately solder in place.
In the other hole, insert a 6-inch jumper and solder to the switch.
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