Introduction: Baseball Bat Rack
This is my first Instructable...
(Comments Appreciated!) :D
Materials you'll need: (note: click on links below for images of items)
1. Two wooden boards Aprox. (32"'x 4"x 3/4")
2. Five 2" wood screws
3. Two small Eye Screws
4. Two Keeper Spring Links
5. White glue or wood glue
6. Paint or transparent lacquer
Tools I used:
3. Rotary Tool
3. Drill bits
4. Hole saw
5. Screw bit
6. Tape measure
7. Combination square
Step 1: Sand Measure & Mark
First - Sand both boards thoroughly using medium then fine sandpaper until nice and smooth on all sides and be sure to sand all the edges as well... This will give it a nice smooth feel to it. (1st photo)
Next, draw a line all the way down the middle of one of the boards, (line not seen here), then starting from the edge, make the first mark 2.5" from the edge (see 2nd photo), then every 3 inches (3rd photo). (this is where you will be making each hole)
Now, measure the width of the knob on a bat and choose a hole saw a bit smaller than the bat knob and drill the first hole. In order to make a clean hole on both sides, stop drilling once the guide bit comes out the other side of the board. Turn the board over and finish the hole form the other side. Next, draw the two cut-out lines where the bat will slide into. It's a good idea to measure the handle of a bat to get an idea. The width of the cut-out should be slightly smaller than the hole you made as you can see in the 4th photo.
Once you've checked your measurements, make the cuts and test with a bat.
If all is good, drill-out all the remaining holes, (Don't forget to stop half way and flip the board to finish each hole from the other side!) (5th photo)
Then measure and mark all of the remaining cut-out sections.
(My boards were long enough for 10 bats... make yours as long or short as you like.)
Step 2: Make the Cut-outs
Next, using your jigsaw, (if you have one), make the cut-outs for each hole as shown.
Step 3: Smooth Edges
Next, using a rotary tool carefully smooth out the edges of all the holes and cut-out areas as shown, on both sides of the board. If you don't have this tool, you can use a stick wrapped with sandpaper or whatever else you think you can use... Although, it might take you a bit longer :)
Step 4: A Little More Sanding
Next, give it one more light sanding to help remove any remaining imperfections and pencil marks.
Step 5: Assembly
Using the combination square, measure the thickness of one of the the boards and mark half the thickness where you will be inserting the screws. Start with the edges then mark the middle and then the remaining two. This way you'll end up with even spacing between the screws.
Next, pre-drill the screw holes on the main board using a drill bit a little thinner that the screws you'll be using. (note: take special care in drilling straight! you don't want your screws going in at an angle)
Now, place the other (uncut) board flat on your work area and place the main board in position. (like in the photo, only upside down)
Place the boards near the edge of your work area and align the boards. Then drill through the first existing hole at one of the edges through to the other board. Repeat with the other four holes taking special care not to let the boards shift. Otherwise the holes of the first board won't align with the holes of the second board.
Next, apply a little glue on both boards where they meet.
Then, making sure the boards are close together, use the screw bit with your hand drill to drive one of the screws halfway starting from the edge. Next, drive in the screw on the opposite edge halfway as well. If all looks good drive them in all the way until flush. Then, drive in the middle screw then the remaining two.
Carefully wipe off any excess glue with a slightly damp cloth if necessary.
Perform a little final sanding if needed.
Step 6: Lacquering and Adding Hardware
Next, mark locations for eye screws as shown in picture and pre-drill holes using a drill bit a little thinner than the eye screws. Next, drive in the eye screws until you can no longer see the threads. (note: you can use a screwdriver to help turn them)
Next, carefully apply lacquer evenly. Start with all the cut-out areas first then do the surfaces.
Be carefull not to spray too close or the lacquer will run and drip and won't look nice. :)
Let dry thoroughly.
(note: in the picture I've also attached the keeper spring links... don't put them on until after the lacquer dries)
Step 7: Finished!
Here you can see the finished product hanging from my fence and in use at my son's Little League games.
I hope you liked my project and hope it helps you with yours! :D
We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.
To simplify the drilling of the holes I like to use clamps to hold the boards in place. I also like to hide my screws on projects. If you wish to hide your screw heads you will need a 3/8 bit and some 3/8 plugs. I cut my own plugs from scrap wood around the shop but you can buy them for less than a few dollars at any hardware store. Decide where you would like your screws to be and drill 1/4 of an inch deep with the bit. (this is where I normally add the clamps)Then as mentioned above to prevent splitting predrill your pilot holes for your screws. Install your screws and then lightly tap your plugs in place leaving a small amount sticking up above the board. This will insure you don't hammer them to deep or scratch the wood with your hammer. All you have left to do now is lightly sand your plugs flush and your done. Unless someone is looking directly for them most will never see your plugs. I also try to align the grain of the plugs with the wood to help hide them.