Introduction: Basic Routing Table
Needed a quick and easy routing table bolt on for the workbench, found several freestanding ideas that I cobbled together into this table.
- 1 sheet - 1/2 2ft by 2ft Oak Plywood ($5.00 to $7.00)
- 1 - 1 by 4 by 4 pine or other sanded board ($4.00 to $6.00)
- 3 - #10 32 sheet metal screws 1 1/4 inch length ($1.50)
- 4 - 5/16 steel tee nuts ($4.00 - $5.00)
- 4 - 5/16 Thumbscrews 3-inch length ($3.50)
- 2 - 5/16 Philips head bolts 3-inch length ($1.00)
- 2- 5/16 nuts
- 7 - 5/16 flat washers
- 1- 1 by 1 by 4 pin board for brace support
- Inline grounded switch ($3.00 - $4.50)
- Router with mounting plate (Had on hand but $40 -$150 depending on quality and power)
- Small scrap wood for mounting the brace to workbench and router table
- Zip ties
- Drill with bits
- Sander or Oscillating tool
- Miter saw or Chop saw
- Phillips head drivers
- Rasps, Files, Wood Chisels (As needed)
Step 1: Step 1:Layout
The two diagrams give you the idea of how this router table was built. Very simple design that can be modified to fit your workbench. I used thumb screws to secure the table to the workbench so I could store when not in use.
Additionally rather than making several fixed holes for the fence, I created channels for slide adjustment to the left and right of the router bit hole.
The brace was added since my table attachment hangs off the main workbench, depending on your build this might not be needed.
Step 2: Step 2: Build Photos Top Side
As you can see my fence is installed on the router table and the table is in place on the workbench (not bolted down in the picture). I also cut half circles in the fence around the bit hole to allow chips to exit the cutting area. I will add a back plate and shop vac hook up in the next week or so.
Step 3: Step 3: Build Photo Bottom Side
Router placement was simple using the factory mount and sheet metal screws. I also countersank the screws on the top side so that they wouldn't cause drag on the workpiece.
Of note this router has a handle trigger, so a zip tie was used to bypass having to squeeze the trigger. That is why the inline switch is used to allow for a quick cut off if needed for safety.
Step 4: Step 4- Switch Position
The final item was a simple inline switch from Home Depot, Walmart or Lowes. It is a grounded receptacle that has a switch on it, you connect in an extension to the wall outlet and presto an inline cut off switch for a few dollars.
Step 5: Wrap Up:
Final sanding and fit was done, used a square and level to adjust the platform and fence for a good track across the router bit.
- Add shop-vac collector
- Place markings for common fence positions
- Switch to wingnuts for fence bolts for quick movement
Looking forward to your builds and comments.
Sources that contributed to my design: