A rechargeable, battery-free LED torch which gets it's power from USB and stores it in a capacitor.


I reckon USB stuff is cool. I also reckon LED stuff is cool. I HATE paying for batteries. I love my shaky torch. Putting all this together, I thought I'd make a LED torch, simmilar in form to those keychain types, which stores it's power in a capacitor. The capacitor is charged from the USB port.


This is only a "proof of concept", and is intended to show it works. I doubt it will have the best performace, but that's not the point. I think I should be able to do it fairly cheaply, for about the cost of a keychain coin-cell LED light.

Step 1: Gather Parts

Here are the parts I used. The link directs to the product page where I purchased them to give you an idea if you are unsure what you are looking for (or to see how much/if I got ripped off). All prices in AU$ at time of posting.

Obviously substitute parts and suppliers where applicable for your location. I think you can get pretty much everything here from SparkFun, but I listed Altronics as they are a good source for parts in Australia.

- 1 x 5.5V 1F Supercap - Altronics - $4.25
- 1 x 5mm Blue High Intensity LED - LSDiodes $0.75ish depending on exchange rate
- 1 x 18 Ohm resistor - DSE - $0.04
- 1 x mini push button toggle switch - SparkFun - $0.30ish
- 1 x Verobaord, 310mm x 95mm, 0.1" spacing - DSE - $7.99 - OK I didn't actually buy this, I used leftover scraps, but this is what you'd buy. You only need a small bit, so I'll count 1/10th of the price (even that's way too much)

So total is AU$6.13. Definately acheived goal.

Yes the capacitor looks like a coin-cell battery. Trust me, I'm not trying to cheat, that's what it looks like.

<p>We can recondition batteries for free - <a href="http://batteryrecover.com" rel="nofollow">very good way</a></p>
this is very nice.... can we add a 1 watt led instead of 5 mm led??
wtf the picture has a battery<br />
<p>it's not a battery, its a flat super capacitor, you can get super capacitors even thinner if you look hard enough!</p>
wtf I don't think you read the description<br />
&nbsp;Look at the parts list, that &quot;battery&quot; is a capacitor.
nice, i will just add some (a rondom lot) of capacitors in paralel to it and see where it gets me using a lm regulator and a dvd drive laser :D btw thanks for al the calculations and stuff, realy helped me out with another projectof mine
Here's a tip, digikey has them for a shitload cheaper, I ordered 18 for 57 bucks, from altronics it's 69.30
Ah yes, but things have changed in the last 5 AND A HALF YEARS since I posted this instructable! (Wow, I feel old...) . In general, super capacitor prices have come down, but this altronics are still charging about the same for the 1F version. It doesn't&nbsp;surprise&nbsp;me that digikey has them cheaper - in general component prices in the US are cheaper than in Australia.<br> <br> Altronics now has a 220F (yep, 220 times larger!) for $23.&nbsp;<br> <br> <a href="http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=R4974" rel="nofollow">http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&amp;id=R4974</a>.<br> <br> <br>
This is my first comment, but I think I should warn you guys about this: You CAN use more capacitor in parallel to increase the charge but that also means you'll be putting the internal resistance of the caps in parallel. Meaning you'll draw more current out of your USB port. To be safe, put a resistor between the positive lead and the capacitor to limit the charging current to about 100mA. Charging will take longer, but thats a minor inconvenience compared to frying your mother board.
might be a good idea to keep it around 400 mA just to be safe.<br>would also be cool if someone made one with a potentiometer to change the brightness or to select b/tw using 1-5 leds
What resistor would I use if I used a 25v resistor with 100 nf or uf
Sorry mate but your question doesn't make sense. Can you try re-phrasing it? Resistors aren't (typically) rated for a &quot;voltage&quot; - normally they have a resistance (like 100 ohms) and a power rating (eg 1/4 watt).
I meant to say capacitor not resistor I'm using a 25v cap with 100 uf or nf
that cap wont work for more than a second. uF is Micro-Farads or <em><strong>millionths</strong></em> of a Farad. you need a <em><strong>one-Farad</strong></em> supercapacitor. you won't find one of those in a radio shack any time soon, I'm pretty sure. you could also use a bigger cap like 5-15 Farads for longer-lasting light.
what do the other two usb wires do? i just need to know which wire does what, i already know what to use it for. I'm too lazy to test.<br />
Ah but it takes so little effort to google!<br /> <br /> The middle two pins of the usb A&nbsp;connector are for D+ and D-.<br />
ha this is great but mine is better. I bought 100 polyacene batteries off electronics goldmine. They are rechargeable, half the size of the capacitor in this instructable, they will each, when charged, power an LED for an hour, and they take no time at all to charge. They are rated for 3.3v only so a few other components have to be added, but they work really well!
That's not better, that's completely different. Did you read the description? This wasn't supposed to be an effective model. It's a proof of concept.<br />
Ya, but you can make it an effective model...<br />
Yes, I get that, just pointing out that Polyacene batteries last longer, about an hour on one charge.&nbsp; <br /> <br /> However, just follow me on this thought, if you mixed this Instructable, with Polyacene Batteries, with this Instructable:<br /> <br /> https://www.instructables.com/id/High-Efficiency-9-volt-LED-Flashlight-with-Touch-c/<br /> <br /> You would have one wicked flashlight!&nbsp; <br />
Thanks for this proof of concept. I&nbsp;was just reading up on resistors and wondered if this were possible.<br />
Where did you get a capacitor like that? it really looks like&nbsp; battery.
Did you check out step 1? It's got a link to Altronics, which is where I got mine from.<br /> <br /> <br />
The idea and concept is great. This design can be made in many ways. With a larger Capacitor and a different charging point, not necessary USB charging.Some add-on would further improve the design.<br /> Like Charging Indicator.<br /> The Power level left in Capacitor , as when being used .<br /> The concept of not using batteries justifies the project.<br /> Thanks for this wonderful project.<br /> <br />
Another idea would be to put a smaller, lower power led to indicate &quot;charging&quot; or you&nbsp; could just use the smae one, but then taht might slow the charging, hence why i suggested using slower post one. and you could probaly just put the additional LED in parrelle to the capacitor with a small resistor too. <br />
Does anyone have that LED array calculator? I am making a similar project.
I found it, but this is a great project, good job!
usb batteries......................................................do i need to say anything else?
u mean like the AA and AAA batteries recharged from a usb port? huge!
they take ages to charge..............
How about adding a joule thief to the circuit this would allow you to run the LED longer off of the CAP
the way i see it, the joule theif steps up the voltage from a "dead" battery -- by taking aout lots of electricity at once here, we would want to step down the voltage, which would be the exact opposite of the joule thief-- ideally replacing the resistor and making its output the 3 volts needed to run the led. thats how to conserve the power, and i think it involves a transformer any ideas on how ?
WowThanks for the tip I was actually thinking about that when you brung it up!!!
that is a brilliant idea. I might make one like that
Sorry I need a place to post this, What would a circuit for making things blink look like? Other than a 555timer.......
if size wasnt a problem, which it is --- but u could use a thermal cutoff switch to make the led flash, and there are circuits where u can wire up a relay switch to make it workout to make it work with the tiny size, i would just recommend a blinking led, which can be found in many places
well if your looking to make an led blink, then i'm pretty sure radioshack has blinking leds
should anything bad happen if u push the switch while its plugged in?
This is a nice introduction to the use of capacitors and LEDs, which, as you say, are cool! Nice that you included the calculations, too, and backed them up with a test at the end. All very good. By the way, did you mean a vicious circle, rather than a viscous cycle (sticky!)? :P
Amazing Instructable! Very clear and easy to understand... I just began trying to learn about electronic components, and well this has made it just that much simpler! I have something i want to clear up; I am planing on building something with a solar cell, and a capacitor, how does the uf rating and the voltage relate? I know the uF rating is how much Energy the capacitor can hold, and the volatege is the rate at which that energy can flow, correct ? what about the amps' are those controlled through resistors ? alternate question; eg; how does a 1000uF 50V capacitor differ from a 1000uF 40V capcitor and a 1000uF 50v from a 2000uf 50v ? Any Help is much appriciated..... how would i choose one to power a small dc motor, that runs on a 1.5 v battery.... ?
what does uF mean?
it mean microFarad, its a measurement.... this article will provide some insight....<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farad">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farad</a><br/>
i just found one of my old duct tape wallets (see my other instructable) and im thinking about putting this into it it should fit into about half of the side, but then it needs that housing in this case, it has to be a rectangluar shell so that the unit can slide right out any ideas on how to make the shell?
I'd scratch out the two middle contacts to avoid any mainboard damage
Yep probably not a bad idea. Not too much can go wrong though if they are left in.
Super-noob question here, do those capacitors work in the same way as capacitors from a motherboard (I have an old mobo with tons of them just begging to be recycled) if so could they be somehow used in a similar design? Although most of them seem to be 10v 1500μF, also wtf is μF? Could they be used in a series or whatever to supply a longer working time for the torch? Sorry if those are moronic questions, electricity definately isn't my forte.
i found one of them from a xerox and went, "pretty battery!"
Ahh the symbol dudn't show up correctly, anyways I mean 1500uF, you know the thingy that's pronounced "mu"
&micro; = micro<br/>

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