Want to make a Battle Axe?



Steel - any size and thickness you want (this battle axe is from 1/4 plate steel)

Safety shield or glasses to protect your vision

Heavy leather gloves to protect your hands


Choose your tools to cut the steel (I used my plasma cutter)

Hand grinder

Sand paper

And around 320 hours (should be two months) or longer. The more time you put into it, the better will be become.

Step 1: Cutting, Grinding, Sanding, Filing.

First photo is showing a black line on the bevel, this is paint. My signal sided bevel was made from hand grinder.

By painting, you will be able to remove the wave and flaws you get from grinding. I used a double cut baster file on the steel for a good 2 hours. Once the bevel looked good, I started hand sanding *

Sand paper started at 80 grit* and worked down to 300 grit. I was not looking for mirror finish.

(* was put on my palm sander)

Step 2: Into the Fire

the forged shown is running close to 2000 degree when on at full (I built this too).

Heating the steel for 1 hour with temperature around 1350 - 1500 to harden the steel.

Use oil* (*oil will start flaming up with the above temps, be careful of your face)

Or water to cool it down after. (Be careful of steam flash burns)

Once it cool to touch, I now need to temper the steel (making it a little softer). I want my cutting blade hard, so I covered it with clay, tossed in the over at 500 degrees for an hour.

Step 3: Handle Time

this handle it made from walnut.

Build the handle the way you like. For me, this took 2 try's.

Ask a question regarding the handle process.

Step 4: 320 Hours Later, or Two Months Later.

this is what you could have.

Please ask questions if you have any. I will respond ASAP.

<p>Great work on this, as you might know I'm an axe fan and a zombie fan, together, this is perfect! To advertise it for you on instructables, I included it in a collection ive made!</p>
<p>Thank you mountain g.</p>
<p>Cool project! what kind of steel did you use for the blade? </p>
This was made out of basic plate steel. But with a little more heat and very cold water, you can still make the blade very hard and sharp.<br><br>(I'll have to look for the photo, it shows the blade cutting leather)<br><br>Next axe I make will be with 1095 and some 440c .
Regular mild steel plate will not harden, no matter how fast the quench. Most mild steel plate is something like 1018 or equivalent and it does not have enough carbon to respond measurably to heat treatment. If using mild steel the the hardening and tempering step is essentially a waste of time.
<p>thank you for the information.</p>
<p>how much does it weigh?</p>
<p>I never weighed it. (I'll do that next time)</p><p>I was able to swing around like a feather, I would guess close to 10-15 LBS total.</p><p>It's built for one or two hands, and it became well balanced when done.</p>
<p>What is the finish paint on the axe?</p>
That would be appliance paint.<br>Black 5 coats, with the sixth (called cracked paint) just by heating the steel with a heat gun up as you spray with same paint.<br><br>Last coat is polyurethane clear.

About This Instructable




Bio: Thank you for the visit. I make knives, swords, battle axes. Looking for custom knife, sword or axe? Just ask and we'll see what ... More »
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