What you'll need:
1 - Solid State Relay (120VAC to 240VAC coil, 3VDC to 7VDC control voltage)
1 - Single Gang Outlet Box
1 - Electrical Outlet
1 - Single Gang Outlet Cover
1 - MiniPOV v2 kit from Ladyada.net
1 - Small Liquid Pump
1 - Container (for reservoir)
1 - Foil baking tin
1 - Fake Heart
~2ft of aquarium tubing
1 - Aquarium tubing T-valve
Small gauge Wire
Large gauge wire
1 - Male plug
Small piece of carboard
Step 1: Prepare the Relay and Gangbox
Connect the white wire to the silver screw on your outlet. Your outlet is now wired completely.
Step 2: Connect the MiniPOV2 kit
If you don't have a parallel port extension cable, you may want to wait on connecting the MiniPOV2 PCB to the relay until after you have programmed the microprocessor.
Feed the two small wires from the PCB through the back knockout of the gangbox. Attach the positive wire from the PCB to the positive control terminal on the SSR. Then connect the negative wire from the PCB to the negative control terminal on the SSR.
After all connection are made to the relay, take your small piece of cardboard and cut it so that it fits neatly inside the gangbox and covers the terminals on the relay. This will help prevent any shorts from the outlet.
Step 3: Completing the Gangbox
Step 4: Setting up the Pump
After dismantling the fountain, I noticed that the pump had a 1/2" fitting while the tubing I had was closer to 1/4". I had to buy an adapter from the hardware store, but if you use an aquarium pump, it should all fit nice and snug. Connect your tubing to the pump after mounting the pump in the reservoir.
Next, connect your T-valve to the end of your tubing and conenct two more short lengths of tubing to the two ends of the T. These shorter lengths will go to the heart "valves" for the blood to squirt out. If you have a stronger pump, you could use multiple valves and tubing to have more blood squirt out, but I had a low GPM pump so two was my maximum.
Step 5: Prepare the Heart
Next, drill holes into the two heart valves where your tubing will stick out of for the blood to squirt out. I say "drill" but I used a pair of scissors. This is all dependent on the material and thickness of your heart.
Now, place the two split tubes and the T into the large hole in the bottom of the heart and feed the two end tubes through the two holes in the heart "valves." This might be tricky, so don't worry about making a bigger hole if you need to. I found sticking something through the outside of the valve hole made it easy to fish the tubing through. After you pull the tubing through, push it back so it isn't very noticeable.
Step 6: Place your Aluminum Pan and the Heart
After your tubing is connected the the pan is in place, stick the excess tubing into the heart and place the heart nicely on top of your holes you cut so that it appears to be sitting on a solid pan.
Step 7: Programming the MiniPOV2
The delay code that is written into the MiniPOV2 example code does not function properly, so I had to sue an alternate one to get the delays to work properly. You can download the code file from here. Follow the instructions here on Ladyada.net to learn how to program the MiniPOV2. You can do this on Mac, Linux, or Windows.
Feel free to modify the code to change the beating pattern, or if you want one of the LEDs to flash with the beating. I've attached the compiled code as well in case you don't want to go through the hassle of compiling. I saved the files as test_leds so that you won't need to modify the makefile to program the PIC.
Step 8: The Finishing Touches
Fill your reservoir with enough "blood" to almost cover your pump so that it won't ever run dry. After filling the reservoir and placing the pan and heart back, plug everything in and flip the switch on your MiniPOV2 battery pack. If all went to plan your blood should squirt for about 2 seconds, stop, then start beating like a real heart!