Step 1: Introduction

This project isn't a kit (and won't ever be) so the instructions are more laissez-faire, with many opportunities for the maker to change elements or modify the design. Take it more as a guideline (and use common sense) than a rigorous step-by-step!

Parts list

To make this project you'll need:

  • 36 or 37 1+ Watt LEDs. there are 2 Watt LEDs that are now easily available. For color versatility you can use 12 each of red green and blue. Or you can go with 18 each of green/blue for more effective dazzling. These range around $3 each. Look on eBay or other closeouts to get slightly-older LEDs for less. We used some older Cree XLamp XR-E 7090
  • You'll also need lenses/optics for each LED. Go with narrow-beam lenses, about 20mm diameter. 6 or 5 degree will be most effective. (Like this, but make sure you get ones that match your LED)
  • Balancing resistors, one for each LED. I used 1.0 ohm 1210's
  • For red LEDs (and maybe green/blue depending on your power supply) you may need a choke resistor 0.5 ohm at 5W may be OK. The internal resistance of the battery and Rds of the FET will make a difference, so do math and measurements!
  • 6" diameter LED plate, see the downloads page for layout. This holes the LEDs and lenses. In theory a aluminum core LED is helpful but we found that for quick blasting, FR4 with copper fill worked just fine.
  • 16 or 18 gauge wire for connecting things up
  • 6 N Channel logic level power MOSFETs. We used FDP6030BLs. Nearly anything that can sink 2A is just fine.
  • Arduino or other microcontroller. The AVR atmegax8 series such as found in the arduino is handy because it has 6 hardware PWMs. We used a DC boarduino and attached an FTDI cable to upload the firmware
  • Battery capable of sourcing 4A at 4V+. 3 D cells or a lead acid is a good choice. We used a 4A 6V SLA that came with the lantern
  • Heatsink. A spare AMD processor heatsink and fan worked nicely and was free!
  • 9V battery + holder with switch for the arduino, seperate supplies prevent noise issues when driving such large loads
  • Enclosure. We repurposed a cheap yet enormous flashlight from Sears. It was pricey at $40 but had the benefit of including a lead acid battery (which would have run almost $20 with shipping) and a basic lead acid charger.
  • Power supply for testing, a ATX power supply is a good way to generate 5A+ at 5V

Step 2: Build It: the PCB

You'll want to start by getting an LED plate fabbed at your favorite PCB manufacturer and acquiring all the materials necessary (image 2a).

Start by soldering in one color of LEDs (in the photo there are a few LEDs soldered in from other strings. Go with green to start. (image 2b)

You'll want a nice powerful soldering iron, use leaded solder since its hard enough to solder to the copper plane! (image 2c)

Use 1 ohm (or so) 1210's for the balancing resistors (image 2d)

For testing you'll want a benchtop supply, or use an ATX power supply with a jumper between the green power line and ground (image 2e)

Test the LEDs to make sure you put them in the right place. Each 'string' is 6 LEDs. (image 2f)

Solder in all the green LEDs (image 2g)

Step 3: Build It: the Controller

Once you have a single color in place, you'll want to build the controller. I used a boarduino (Arduino clone) but any microcontroller is fine. Wire up the power FETs so that the gates are connected to the hardware PWM outputs, and the sources to ground. (images 3a & 3b)

To make traces on perfboard high-current-capacity you can use a 20 gauge wire as a backing and solder on top to make a path. (image 3c)

Which you can sort of see here (image 3d)

You don't have to wire up all the FETs now, start with one. We used 5.08mm (0.2") terminal blocks to make wiring easy (image 3e)

Step 4: Build It: Testing & the Heatsink

Do lots of testing and be careful to connect power up properly since there are no protection diodes (image 4a)

You can load some PWM testing firmware onto the microcontroller to check the LEDs as you work (image 4b)

Complete soldering in all the LEDs (image 4c)

A final test PWMing through all the LEDs. It heats up fast so keep the max power low and/or dont run it more than half a minute. (image 4d)

Since we were too cheap to get a proper metal PCB, we'll be attaching a heatsink to the outside. While far from ideal, a spare AMD processor heatsink worked just fine. Remove the fan, take off the metal clip and then reattach the fan. Check the fan to see if it will run off of 9V. Ours did OK (image 4e)

If you have thermal paste, spread some on the heatink. If you didn't tent the vias, use kapton tappe or similar to prevent them from shorting to the heatsink (image 4f)

Step 5: Build It: the Enclosure

Next up is the enclosure. We found the Dorcy 41-1088 lantern at Sears for about $40. Its very close to the right size so we went with it. (image 5a & 5b)

It looks like this. (image 5c & 5d)

Open up the bottom to reveal a 6V, 4A sealed lead acid battery. This battery works pretty well. There's enough internal resistance that when the LEDs are on, the voltage out drops to 4V which is rather convenient (image 5e)

It comes with a charger but putting it on a 7V benchtop supply will charge it much faster (about 4 hours instead of 20). (image 5f)

Step 6: Build It: More Testing & Reassembling the Body

Test the circuit with the heatsink and fan activated. (image 6a)

Then try it with the battery as the power supply (image 6b)

Check the temperature of the LEDs, we didn't get above 58 degrees C which is pretty good. (image 6c)

Open up the rest of the lantern and remove the reflector and halogen bulb. (image 6d)

Reassemble the body. (image 6e & 6f)

Extend the power lines and wire them to the main control PCB (image 6g)

Step 7: Build It: Attaching the PCB, Lenses, and Finishing Touches

The PCB is cut down and tucked into the slot behind where the reflector went (image 7a)

The plate sits in front, sadly its just slightly too small to go into the enclosure. However, this way there is more space for the heat sink. (image 7b)

Lenses are snapped onto the LEDs. I used superglue to tack them down. This is a major mistake so don't do what I did because then the fume damage the lenses and they need to be cleaned. There's probably a better glue to use. Perhaps epoxy? (image 7c)

A 9V battery is wired up to the arduino. All the lenses are put on (image 7d)

We cut out a simple lens protector from acrylic on our laser cutter. (image 7e)

Showing the fit before we finish. (image 7f)

With some gaff or packing tape to attach the lens protector, we're done! (images 7g & 7h)

Step 8: Hardware Files

This is all public domain, so enjoy!

*Schematic for LED plate in PNG format
The LEDs originally used are CREE Xlamp 7090 but any 1+ Watt LEDs work OK. The balancing resistors are about 1 ohm, but can be adjusted. Use 2 sets of 6 LEDs for full tri-color (more versatile). Or 3 sets of 6 LEDs for green/blue only (more effective)

The arduino (or compatible) is hooked up to the LEDs via logic-level N-channel FETs. The diagram shows 2 groups of 3 colors but can be easily changed for 2 colors. If red LEDs are used, a 0.5 ohm, 5W led should be placed in series with the wire to the LED plate.


// Bedazzler! A good multiple LED PWM project, by Limor Fried
// Public domain 2009

#include <util/delay.h>
int value;
int redpin1 = 5, redpin2 = 6;
int greenpin1 = 3, greenpin2 = 11;
int bluepin1 = 9, bluepin2 = 10;

int ledmax;

#define GLITTER 0
#define SWIRL 1
#define DAZZLE 2

volatile int mode = DAZZLE;

// we use a button on pin 2 (interrupt pin) to detect mode changes
void modechange(void)
// debounce it
if (digitalRead(2) == LOW) {
if (digitalRead(2) != LOW)
if (mode > 2)
mode = 0;
Serial.print("new mode! ");
Serial.println(mode, DEC);


void setup()
pinMode(2, INPUT);
digitalWrite(2, HIGH); // pullup on mode button
attachInterrupt(0, modechange, CHANGE);



// nothing for setup
analogWrite(redpin1, 0);
analogWrite(redpin2, 0);
analogWrite(greenpin1, 0);
analogWrite(greenpin2, 0);
analogWrite(bluepin1, 0);
analogWrite(bluepin2, 0);

ledmax = 250; // change this value to adjust the maximum brightness

void loop()
switch(mode) {
case SWIRL:
ckswirl(ledmax, 10);
glimmertest(ledmax, ledmax/10, 30);
case DAZZLE:
bedazzle(ledmax, 10, 7, 11);


void bedazzle(int ledmax, int pulselensec, int freqmin, int freqmax) {
long pulses;

analogWrite(redpin1, 0);
analogWrite(redpin2, 0);
analogWrite(greenpin1, 0);
analogWrite(greenpin2, 0);
analogWrite(bluepin1, 0);
analogWrite(bluepin2, 0);

// note we dont use red LEDs in this
int freq = random(freqmin, freqmax+1);
int pulsedelay = 1000/freq;
pulsedelay /= 2;

pulses = pulselensec;
pulses *= 1000;
pulses /= 2*pulsedelay;

Serial.print("pulsing at ");
Serial.print(freq, DEC);
Serial.print(" Hz (");
Serial.print(pulsedelay, DEC);
Serial.println(" ms on/off)");
Serial.println(" pulses");

while (pulses--) {
analogWrite(greenpin1, ledmax);
analogWrite(greenpin2, ledmax);
analogWrite(bluepin1, ledmax);
analogWrite(bluepin2, ledmax);
analogWrite(greenpin1, 0);
analogWrite(greenpin2, 0);
analogWrite(bluepin1, 0);
analogWrite(bluepin2, 0);
if (mode != DAZZLE) return;


void ckswirl(int ledmax, uint8_t z) {
int r, g, b;

// fade from red to orange to yellow to green
for (g=0; g// turn red down
analogWrite(redpin1, ledmax-g);
analogWrite(redpin2, ledmax-g);
analogWrite(greenpin1, g); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)
analogWrite(greenpin2, g); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)

if (mode != SWIRL) return;
// fade from green to blue
for (b=0; b// turn red down
analogWrite(bluepin1, b);
analogWrite(bluepin2, b);
analogWrite(greenpin1, ledmax-b); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)
analogWrite(greenpin2, ledmax-b); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)

if (mode != SWIRL) return;
// from blue to red
for (r=0; r// turn red down
analogWrite(redpin1, r);
analogWrite(redpin2, r);
analogWrite(bluepin1, ledmax-r); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)
analogWrite(bluepin2, ledmax-r); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)

if (mode != SWIRL) return;

void glimmertest(int maxvalue, int incr, int z) {

for(value = 0 ; value <= maxvalue; value+=incr)
analogWrite(greenpin1, value); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)
analogWrite(greenpin2, maxvalue-value); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)
analogWrite(bluepin1, value);
analogWrite(bluepin2, maxvalue-value); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)
analogWrite(redpin1, value);
analogWrite(redpin2, maxvalue-value); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)
delay(z); // waits for 30 milli seconds to see the dimming effect

if (mode != GLITTER) return;
for(value = maxvalue; value >=0; value-=incr) // fade out (from max to min)
analogWrite(greenpin1, value);
analogWrite(greenpin2 , maxvalue-value); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)
analogWrite(bluepin1, value);
analogWrite(bluepin2, maxvalue-value); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)
analogWrite(redpin1, value);
analogWrite(redpin2, maxvalue-value); // sets the value (range from 0 to 255)

if (mode != GLITTER) return;

I&nbsp;have a free solution to make this product inaffective, I close my eyes.
&nbsp;Yes... but if you close your eyes, then that means you are still incapacitated.
then look away, turn your back to the device and run, it's still a dumb idea and waste of money at any level. Other than a person downrange from a firing squad I don't know of anyone who would just stand there and take the abuse.
And thus, the device has done its job, no?&nbsp; If a person forces me to defend my home and I choose to use this, the results arelikely&nbsp; very good: my home is defended AND I don't have to clean up the invader's blood or vomit.<br /><br />If the person is an id10t and doesn't do as you suggest, then I have vomit to clean up, a person to arrest, a court case to attend, etc., but my home is still defended.<br /><br />That this can be done for a few hundred dollars as opposed to the million for the military version is great, and comparable to the cost of a good sidearm.&nbsp; And using said sidearm has other very negitive potential side effects.<br /><br />If you're concerned about how effective this would be, mix it with high-powered ultrasonics and/or microwaves.&nbsp; THEN you'd have a complete pain-field home defense unit.<br />
<p>So if you standing in a small room or hallway don't you think the relfection/pattern of lights off a white wall would induce the same behavior to yourself as your intended target?&nbsp; I like my shotgun $99.00 dollars at Wal-Mart and I&nbsp;KNOW&nbsp;it works.&nbsp; <br /><br />Also, I&nbsp;carry pepper spray and tested in the house to see if it would affect me in a burgular confrontation scenario to my suprise it did not. I attribute our swamp cooler ventalation system which recycles air quite rapidly. A spray to the face at least at my house would be a more effective means for non-lethal measures to a potential attacker or a flash gernade. <br /><br />Now if I can just remember where I&nbsp;put that number to the Black Market. LOL</p>
And my personal choice is a sword, but to each their own.&nbsp; <strong><em>IF</em></strong> you are well trained in how to use the $99 shotgun, and you're comfortable with the potential negative consequences, then by all means, use that.&nbsp; In close-quarter combat (such as home defense), the distance can be closed to blade or hand range extremely quickly and there are fewer risks to other household members, so swords work well for me.&nbsp; Besides, explaining the headless body to the cops just sounds much more interesting then yet another bullet catcher. :D<br /><br />The object here for the bedazzler Instructable is to give another very viable option.&nbsp; If you're not comfortable with it, that's fine.<br />
Well I just finished my enlistment as of 28&nbsp;Sept 09 in the U.S.&nbsp;Army&nbsp; and after eight years and I think I'm very comfortable with using weapons. LOL!<br /><br />Like I&nbsp;said&nbsp;before I think it's a waste of money, as federal funded project and as an instructable. I'd rather use $10 worth or quaters in a sock as a weapon than spend the $250 to make this. The sword works as well unless your that poor kid from Maryland. http://www.cnn.com/2009/CRIME/09/15/samurai.sword.killing/index.html
I was in the army as well, and know first hand that I'd much rather use a non-lethal device to cause an attacker to flee than anything that requires ammunition, preparation and has the potential of causing serious harm.<br><br>Yeah, if I were confronted with a psychotic, armed murderer I'd be happy to blow them away with a shotgun. Of course, you don't know who it is you've just killed until you turn on the lights.<br><br>Besides, this is perfect for those jerks who insist on walking out in front of my motorcycle.
Lol. duct tape it to the shotgun and go LEROY JENKINS....!!!!!
You would have to be a pretty darn good shot with your shotgun to make the hit &quot;non-lethal&quot;!
Your comment is completely useless. Why are you even on this site?
Well if the point is to get you to 'turn around and run' it's pretty effective then, isn't it? It's non-lethal meaning the point wasn't to shoot you to the ground in the first place. Would make nice for angry-mob control for example. Better then needing to point guns at them isn't it?
There are a lot of things that are wastes of money. This is in no way a dumb idea--okay, use as a weapon is, but it's a really cool device and a great idea. <br />
Why is this a waste of money?&nbsp; &quot;Look away, turn your back, and run&quot; is <strong>what I want</strong> when I use it to confront an intruder in my house.<br />
Ok. So I have a problem with the code. <br><br>I copy and paste the code into Arduino and when I go to compile, it comes up with <br><br>expected ';' before 'analogWrite' <br><br>This is on line 130 <br><br>Anybody have any ideas? I'm pulling my hair out and I haven't got enough as it is...<br><br>Oh, I'm running Arduino 1 with an Arduino Nano v3.<br><br>
use a sheet of thick metal see below <br>
that cant shine through welding goggles.
yeah, it probably can. if you have to wear welding goggles to protect your eyes from this, then you are still pretty much incapacitated.
&nbsp;I like the concept and the spirit behind the 'weapon' but a tazer can be made from a disposable camera (granted not to strong). That's way cheaper and cost effective. Maybe a tazer with a bedazzler attachment... that would make someone trip bawlz and not in a good way. Or a device that can scan the area's/rooms&nbsp;dimensions to calculate that room's acoustic features and throw sounds like a&nbsp;ventriloquist... some really loud trippy sounds... and a bedazzler to top it off. meh.......&nbsp;&nbsp;
Well to be honest, the disposable camera things aren't really tazers. They deliver a bit of a shock, but nothing incapacitating. Especially when made from a disposable camera, the emphasis is on 'not too strong'.
&quot;It doesn't work that well but it works great for raves&quot;<br /> <br /> i hope the million dollar government one works well lol<br />
Now if&nbsp;they can get the bad guys to stare at it for 10 or 15 minutes, they might have something worthwhile!&nbsp; lol
This seems like it could be an effective home defense system for when you are away from home.<br /> <br /> Combine the dazzler,<a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Twittering-Laser-Tripwire-with-Webcam-Capture/" rel="nofollow"> Laser-Tripwire</a>, and&nbsp; <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-RFID-Door-Lock/" rel="nofollow">RFID-Door-Lock</a>.&nbsp; Way more effective than those loud obnoxious alarms that everyone ignores.&nbsp; You could even make a portable version for your car.<br /> <br />
Does this work on animals?&nbsp; I like the idea of adding high freq sound as well...<br /> <br /> Nice job!
does the flashes need to be random, or does it matter.
This is a nice and informative instructable, good work A+ for your efforts.<br /> &nbsp;As a side note for the effectiveness and uses of a device like this, I watched a similar device used on future weapons it was used in conjunction with a rifle during a &quot;rush&quot; on people holding hostages to confuse the hostage takers giving valuable time to the soldiers in gaining control of the situation.<br /> Again Good Work!<br />
Video?<br />
like we say in puerto rico: <strong><em>BRUTAL!!</em></strong><br /> <br /> nice job ladyada!<br />
I felt strange just from the video! May just be that I didn't eat breakfast yet.<br /> <div id="refHTML">&nbsp;</div>
&nbsp;Ooops I brought a bedazzler to a gun fight. An&nbsp;interesting,but&nbsp;expensive&nbsp;project &nbsp;Would&nbsp;the DOD, DOH and the USPTO &nbsp;actually&nbsp;make available online information&nbsp;necessary&nbsp;to be able to come close to home shop duplicating a non-lethal&nbsp;weapon that could be used against military personell, law enforcement, and law abiding citizens? No doubt the info available online contain incomplete, and misleading data. People are&nbsp;noticeably&nbsp;affected by the flicker rate of the old&nbsp;fluorescent&nbsp;lights, others prose to seizures when exposed to certain flickering images. I have no doubt an effective weapon may have been developed, but I would think more effort would have to be expended to&nbsp;duplicated&nbsp;it. Perhaps of obtaining video of as many demos as possible to&nbsp;analyze, again I would assume there is a demo mode to prevent giving away details
Take one of those to a concert or to Disneyland... lol<br />
Wood glue will work as long as there's not much flexing and shock.&nbsp; It has the advantage of being removable in case some of the LEDs burn out.&nbsp; Like any adhesive, everything has to be clean or it won't stick.&nbsp; Epoxy will work also, but be very difficult to remove.&nbsp; I've been using Gorilla Glue&trade; recently, but you have to be careful to only use a little bit because it will expand.&nbsp; The other surface has to be moistened.&nbsp; Huffing on it is usually sufficient, but you have to be quick, though, since it evaporates quickly, as you know.&nbsp; You could also try melting the plastic onto the circuit board with a soldering iron, but that will likely have an even weaker bond than the wood glue.&nbsp; Then there's double stick tape, of course, which the manufacturers like to use.&nbsp; Another adhesive is the 3M&trade; carpet or corner bead adhesive in the spray can; but it's really expensive and you have to be really careful not to get it on the LEDs or lenses.<br />
Hey, I'm an amateur at most things electronic and I had aquestion.&nbsp; Why would melting the plastic onto the circuit boardhave a weak bond?<br /><br />Just so I have future reference...<br />
For&nbsp; some&nbsp; reason&nbsp; Instructables&nbsp; is&nbsp;being&nbsp; crappy&nbsp; and&nbsp; deleting&nbsp; spaces&nbsp; in&nbsp;my&nbsp; comments.<br /><br />The 3 main reasons are:<br />Most people don't clean circuit boards after soldering. Melt plasticonto that and it will pick up the impurities and get weak and brittle.<br />The melted plastic and the object it's melted onto have to be the sametemperature for a good bond.<br />Few types of plastic can tolerate heating to liquid or semisolid withoutbreaking down.<br /><br />Hot glue might also work well, but only if you're very meticulous inapplying it.&nbsp; Unless the board and plastic are very clean and getheated to the same temperature as the hot glue, the bond is fairly weak.<br />It also has to be a 'hot melt' type gun to get the best bond.<br />The glue shouldn't be applied until the gun is up to temperature.<br />The glue melts before the gun is fully heated up since it's designed towork with 'cool melt' guns.<br />Hot glue won't adhere at all to some plastics. It might look like it's&quot;stuck&quot;, but come apart later - probably when you need it most.<br />Hot glue will absorb cigarette smoke and this will get between the gluean 'workpiece', weakening the bond.<br />One trick I use on perforated board is to force the hot glue throughsome of the holes and out the other side.&nbsp; This greatly improvesthe bond.<br />I&nbsp;don't usually recommend hot glue because of all thesecomplications, but it&nbsp; can work if done right. It's quick and easy,so it's used a lot in the industry. There are specialty glue sticksaround that can overcome some of these limitations if you look around.Also, keep in mind that hot glue will melt when a soldering iron getsanywhere near it and will really screw up a joint you're trying to solder.<br />
For everyone complaining about it's use as a weapon, you're onlythinking of individual weapons. &nbsp;This appears to be a non-lethalcrowd control weapon, like the big acoustic devices* that police use tobreak up riots and crowds.&nbsp; <br /><br />http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_Range_Acoustic_Device<br /><br />The idea is to make it so uncomfortable to be in that area, that peopleleave, but to do it in a way that doesn't invoke images of whitefirefighters knocking down pacifists with blasts from fire-hoses.<br /><br />*Mini-close-range versions of those can be built with a 555 timer andsome patience.&nbsp; In highschool one of my friends made one, but wecould never adjust it to bother more than one person at a time, and itdidn't have enough juice to do more than cause a headache.<br /><br />
What hath god wrought! XD <br /><br />It looks like the world's deadliest flashlight.<br />
<span style="border-collapse: separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 12px;" class="Apple-style-span">This is a fun, geek-party toy but it isn't a weapon. &nbsp;Anyone who attempts to stand their ground against a determined attacker with just this device in their hand deserves whatever happens to them for being so foolish. &nbsp;<br /><br />A weapon needs to operate quickly and reliably- hence the popularity of guns as weapons. &nbsp;This device, if it does what is claimed at all, fails on both counts. &nbsp;Some targets may feel nauseous, but it doesn't happen within the few seconds it takes an attacker to cross a room, take the thing out of your hand, and use it to bash your skull in.<br /><br />By the way, nausea means feeling like vomiting, not actually vomiting. &nbsp;Actual vomiting is emesis. &nbsp;Neither nausea nor emesis are going to stop a determined attacker.</span></span>
Does the ability use use
For some reason this instructable would always crash my browser when I&nbsp;tried to open it. I'm pretty sure that the video is what caused it, because in Google Chrome it would come up as a quicktime symbol with a question mark on it and then freeze, so I&nbsp;had to go to the control panel to end it. But it worked when I opened it with Internet Explorer.<br /><br />Anyway, very good instructable! I might make one&nbsp;if I have just the right combination of money&nbsp;and free time.&nbsp;5 stars!
Really nice and I&nbsp;like the photos. <br /><br />StumbleUpon led me to this:<br />http://www.wonderhowto.com/wonderment/diy-vomit-inducing-flashlight-0113432/<br /><br /><br />
So, this is really nice and cool and all that. I really do think you did a wonderful job putting it all together and as someone else said, I love the fact that the government spent so much money on something that cost's so little. However, I have a few questions. What criminal with an intent to harm is going to give you time enough to pull out your fancy flashlight? If you pull anything out of your pocket that looks like a gun, you're likely to get shot... why not just have a gun so you can atleast shoot back? This question is for homeland security, If a sniper is aiming at you or your buddy, are you going to pull out your fancy flashlight and try to blind them while possibly giving off your position and ultimately end up being shot?
This looks like a flashlight to me.<br />Unless you're Flash Gordon.<br />
An interesting read, to be sure, but not exactly something we average instructables readers can pull off. I'm sure you MIT engineers can just phone up a PCB fab shop and have something done in a jiffy, but the average joes around here don't have those kind of contacts (not to mention the cash for design and prototyping.) And, who has a fracking laser cutter at their disposal for hobby projects?&nbsp; I'm not being mean, just realistic, maybe we need an instructables annex site for the heavy duty professional stuff, you engineers make us normal people feel inadequate :)<br />
Well, I'm no engineer (just ask my engineer uncle!), but I've fab'ed stuff at home nearly this complex.&nbsp; Sure, home-etched PCBs might not look as clean, but can be built within the same tolerances.&nbsp;&nbsp; And since the design work is done for us, the hard part is done.&nbsp; There are multiple 'structables on etching your own PCB.<br /><br />I think that if you are patient and methodical, have some basic logic/scientific/mechanical skills, and can do some math (plug the numbers into formulas available in on-line calculators), you can handle this.&nbsp; Give it a try and stretch your mental legs a bit- you might surprise yourself.<br />
I personally don't think that it would be to far-fetched for the average hobbiest to make this project. Sure they don't have lots of time and cash for prototyping or laser cutters, but luckily that stuff has already been done for them by the authour of the instructable. Some projects are naturally more complex, but everything needed to actually build this project can easily be found on the net.<br />
aren't there laser versions of these too?&nbsp;
I love your assistant.<br />&quot;BLEGH. The goggles. They do nothing for my eyes.&quot;<br />
I'm interested in the pyschological studies of this device. Does a person who's in in the know about this device vomit because they&nbsp;forsee what the device intentions are? (a type of placebo affect) or Does a person who doesn't know have the same affect?<br /><br />The power of the mind is fascinating to me, like the whole brown note theory. <br /><br />
I've heard about this, its really does work, except that now, sometimes, its just blinding because some people regularly take the sea/motion sickness meds. I&nbsp;think this one might win the arduino contest , well i'm almost sure of it
I like the part where Home Land Security spent lots of money on a flashlight.

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