Our first open source Homeland Security non-lethal weapon project - The "THE BEDAZZLER: A Do-it-yourself Handheld LED-Incapacitator".
After attending a conference where the $1 million "sea-sick flashlight" (named "THE DAZZLER") was demonstrated by the US Dept. of Homeland Security, we decided to create our own version. For under $250, you can build your own dazzler and we've released the source code, schematics and PCB files to make it easy. A great Arduino project for people who really like blinking LEDs. We also added in a mode selection so you can put it into some pretty color-swirl modes, great for raves and parties!
Yes this project does indeed cause: Nausea, dizziness, headache, flashblindness, eye pain and (occasional?) vomiting! So don't use it on your friends or pets.
Please note: This is not a kit, nor for sale...so don't ask us. All documentation is on the design and download pages.
Mad props to Scott Johnston for LED assistance. Sk0t r0x!
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Signing UpStep 1Introduction
This project isn't a kit (and won't ever be) so the instructions are more laissez-faire, with many opportunities for the maker to change elements or modify the design. Take it more as a guideline (and use common sense) than a rigorous step-by-step!
Parts list
To make this project you'll need:
- 36 or 37 1+ Watt LEDs. there are 2 Watt LEDs that are now easily available. For color versatility you can use 12 each of red green and blue. Or you can go with 18 each of green/blue for more effective dazzling. These range around $3 each. Look on eBay or other closeouts to get slightly-older LEDs for less. We used some older Cree XLamp XR-E 7090
- You'll also need lenses/optics for each LED. Go with narrow-beam lenses, about 20mm diameter. 6 or 5 degree will be most effective. (Like this, but make sure you get ones that match your LED)
- Balancing resistors, one for each LED. I used 1.0 ohm 1210's
- For red LEDs (and maybe green/blue depending on your power supply) you may need a choke resistor 0.5 ohm at 5W may be OK. The internal resistance of the battery and Rds of the FET will make a difference, so do math and measurements!
- 6" diameter LED plate, see the downloads page for layout. This holes the LEDs and lenses. In theory a aluminum core LED is helpful but we found that for quick blasting, FR4 with copper fill worked just fine.
- 16 or 18 gauge wire for connecting things up
- 6 N Channel logic level power MOSFETs. We used FDP6030BLs. Nearly anything that can sink 2A is just fine.
- Arduino or other microcontroller. The AVR atmegax8 series such as found in the arduino is handy because it has 6 hardware PWMs. We used a DC boarduino and attached an FTDI cable to upload the firmware
- Battery capable of sourcing 4A at 4V+. 3 D cells or a lead acid is a good choice. We used a 4A 6V SLA that came with the lantern
- Heatsink. A spare AMD processor heatsink and fan worked nicely and was free!
- 9V battery + holder with switch for the arduino, seperate supplies prevent noise issues when driving such large loads
- Enclosure. We repurposed a cheap yet enormous flashlight from Sears. It was pricey at $40 but had the benefit of including a lead acid battery (which would have run almost $20 with shipping) and a basic lead acid charger.
- Power supply for testing, a ATX power supply is a good way to generate 5A+ at 5V
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I copy and paste the code into Arduino and when I go to compile, it comes up with
expected ';' before 'analogWrite'
This is on line 130
Anybody have any ideas? I'm pulling my hair out and I haven't got enough as it is...
Oh, I'm running Arduino 1 with an Arduino Nano v3.
If the person is an id10t and doesn't do as you suggest, then I have vomit to clean up, a person to arrest, a court case to attend, etc., but my home is still defended.
That this can be done for a few hundred dollars as opposed to the million for the military version is great, and comparable to the cost of a good sidearm. And using said sidearm has other very negitive potential side effects.
If you're concerned about how effective this would be, mix it with high-powered ultrasonics and/or microwaves. THEN you'd have a complete pain-field home defense unit.
So if you standing in a small room or hallway don't you think the relfection/pattern of lights off a white wall would induce the same behavior to yourself as your intended target? I like my shotgun $99.00 dollars at Wal-Mart and I KNOW it works.
Also, I carry pepper spray and tested in the house to see if it would affect me in a burgular confrontation scenario to my suprise it did not. I attribute our swamp cooler ventalation system which recycles air quite rapidly. A spray to the face at least at my house would be a more effective means for non-lethal measures to a potential attacker or a flash gernade.
Now if I can just remember where I put that number to the Black Market. LOL
The object here for the bedazzler Instructable is to give another very viable option. If you're not comfortable with it, that's fine.
Like I said before I think it's a waste of money, as federal funded project and as an instructable. I'd rather use $10 worth or quaters in a sock as a weapon than spend the $250 to make this. The sword works as well unless your that poor kid from Maryland. http://www.cnn.com/2009/CRIME/09/15/samurai.sword.killing/index.html
Yeah, if I were confronted with a psychotic, armed murderer I'd be happy to blow them away with a shotgun. Of course, you don't know who it is you've just killed until you turn on the lights.
Besides, this is perfect for those jerks who insist on walking out in front of my motorcycle.
i hope the million dollar government one works well lol
Combine the dazzler, Laser-Tripwire, and RFID-Door-Lock. Way more effective than those loud obnoxious alarms that everyone ignores. You could even make a portable version for your car.
Nice job!
As a side note for the effectiveness and uses of a device like this, I watched a similar device used on future weapons it was used in conjunction with a rifle during a "rush" on people holding hostages to confuse the hostage takers giving valuable time to the soldiers in gaining control of the situation.
Again Good Work!
nice job ladyada!
Just so I have future reference...
The 3 main reasons are:
Most people don't clean circuit boards after soldering. Melt plasticonto that and it will pick up the impurities and get weak and brittle.
The melted plastic and the object it's melted onto have to be the sametemperature for a good bond.
Few types of plastic can tolerate heating to liquid or semisolid withoutbreaking down.
Hot glue might also work well, but only if you're very meticulous inapplying it. Unless the board and plastic are very clean and getheated to the same temperature as the hot glue, the bond is fairly weak.
It also has to be a 'hot melt' type gun to get the best bond.
The glue shouldn't be applied until the gun is up to temperature.
The glue melts before the gun is fully heated up since it's designed towork with 'cool melt' guns.
Hot glue won't adhere at all to some plastics. It might look like it's"stuck", but come apart later - probably when you need it most.
Hot glue will absorb cigarette smoke and this will get between the gluean 'workpiece', weakening the bond.
One trick I use on perforated board is to force the hot glue throughsome of the holes and out the other side. This greatly improvesthe bond.
I don't usually recommend hot glue because of all thesecomplications, but it can work if done right. It's quick and easy,so it's used a lot in the industry. There are specialty glue sticksaround that can overcome some of these limitations if you look around.Also, keep in mind that hot glue will melt when a soldering iron getsanywhere near it and will really screw up a joint you're trying to solder.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_Range_Acoustic_Device
The idea is to make it so uncomfortable to be in that area, that peopleleave, but to do it in a way that doesn't invoke images of whitefirefighters knocking down pacifists with blasts from fire-hoses.
*Mini-close-range versions of those can be built with a 555 timer andsome patience. In highschool one of my friends made one, but wecould never adjust it to bother more than one person at a time, and itdidn't have enough juice to do more than cause a headache.
It looks like the world's deadliest flashlight.
A weapon needs to operate quickly and reliably- hence the popularity of guns as weapons. This device, if it does what is claimed at all, fails on both counts. Some targets may feel nauseous, but it doesn't happen within the few seconds it takes an attacker to cross a room, take the thing out of your hand, and use it to bash your skull in.
By the way, nausea means feeling like vomiting, not actually vomiting. Actual vomiting is emesis. Neither nausea nor emesis are going to stop a determined attacker.
Anyway, very good instructable! I might make one if I have just the right combination of money and free time. 5 stars!
StumbleUpon led me to this:
http://www.wonderhowto.com/wonderment/diy-vomit-inducing-flashlight-0113432/