I want to introduce Beetle Ringo. That’s a six-legged robot controlled by any IR remote (some TV remote e.g.) you can find around.

It is a small and easy weekend Arduino project with big ambitions: on the one hand you don't need any complicated parts or smart skills to make it and on the other hand this is a real mobile robotic platform. It will take you only a day to build it and you can spend many days developing it. I hope this project will be useful for beginners: we can make these first steps together and have the robot you can improve in future.

The photo you see above is my previous release of the robot. It is very easy to make it, but this time I want to simplify it even more. I decided to avoid soldering. A lot of beginners are afraid of it. I can understand them: new tools, materials, experience. The project will become a headache if you see a soldering iron for the first time. So let's exclude it!

Another common beginner's fear is programming. Beetle Ringo is a real robot and of course it has a program. But this program is already completed and you can find it and download from the project's page on GitHub. This is an opensource project and you can fork it (copy the source code) and modify it as you wish. At this point Ringo could be a good start to learn programming.

Step 1: Preparing

What we should know to make Ringo?

It will be great if you are familiar with Arduino platform. If you don’t never mind. It’s the best time to learn about it. I can give you some links. First of all take a look at the Arduino website. It is also useful to read Arduino wikipedia page. You will find a lot of new words there but you can dive deeper through the links. I advise you to watch video tutorials by Jeremy Blum. They are short – 15–20 minutes, simple and I think that's one of the shortest way to Arduino world. And the last thing about Arduino platform I want to say: Arduino is an amazing project with huge community. I'm almost sure that any question you get was asked before. So Google will help you.

What parts do we need to make Ringo?

  1. Arduino Uno controller with USB cable.
  2. Battery case with ON/OFF switch for one 9V battery. This would be a bearing part of the robot. I made a photo to show what kind of battery case do you need exactly.
  3. 9V alkaline battery or 7.2V – 8.4V accumulator. Pay attention that Zinc-carbon batteries can't give enough current so don't use them.
  4. Three small analog servos. I used HXT500. And you can take any servos of the same size and 5V voltage.
  5. One infrared (IR) receiver. Most of IR remotes work on 36kHz, 38kHz or 40kHz. Only Sharp, Bang&Olufsen use exotic currier frequencies 56kHz and 455kHz. Well... I lied when I said that you could use any IR remote. You should select IR receiver according to IR remote you're planning to use. But! If you don't plan to use Sharp or Bang&Olufsen then you can choose any currier frequency among 36, 38 or 40kHz for your IR remote. For example I used IR receiver TSOP2136 (36kHz) with Sony IR remote (40kHz). And everything worked fine. So for most of IR remotes you can take these receivers: TSOP21xx, TSOP22xx, TSOP312xx where “xx” is 36, 38, or 40.
  6. Mini-sized solderless breadboard. Or you can take a big one. In any case we are going to cut it and make even smaller than mini-sized.
  7. Jump wires.
  8. Steel wire for legs. Diameter 1.5 – 2 mm (0.06” – 0.08”).
  9. 2–3 common metal paper clips. The size doesn't matter but the diameter of the wire should be something around 0.9 mm (0.035”).

And these are tools we need for Ringo

  1. Hot glue gun with glue sticks.
  2. Hacksaw or Dremel with cut-off wheel.
  3. Flat needle file or Dremel with grinding stone.
  4. Flat-nose pliers.
  5. Diagonal pliers.
<p>Thank you Mr. DmitryDzz</p><p>I was a newcomer in the world of robotics.</p><p>I make such steps that you have described.</p><p>but, sorry for slightly different from what you have created, because the board I use is arduino pro mini.</p><p>but what makes me happy is that I learned a lot while making ringo.</p><p>sorry, for the faded pictures</p>
<p>It's a pleasure to see another and different Ringo! Feel free to fork and change my code.</p>
<p>Hello Dmitry,</p><p>thanks for the very good project.</p><p>I made it with my daughters and we had lot of fun.</p><p>Bye</p><p>daniele</p>
<p>Thanks for the photo and made-it comment! I'm really happy that you and your daughters enjoyed the project. I tried to interst my daughter in robotics but I'm afraid she's likely to be a sheer humanitarian. Woe is me!</p>
<p>Dmitry, it is working much better now! Thank you for all of your help!</p><p>I made mine for my little girls. So she has Betty Davis eyes :)</p>
<p>I changed a few design ... But the whole idea is taken from you) Thanks for a great guide!))</p>
<p>Great beetle! Thank you!</p>
<p>Hi !</p><p>I made it, it works fine until yesterday when battery was empty.</p><p>I change the battery with a new one, but now Arduino seems to reboot over and over and legs seems to be stressed when ever i send a command.</p><p>Tested with an other battery : same problem.</p><p>By the way, It works fine when connected via usb...</p><p>any idea ?</p>
<p>Hi billgudule!</p><p>I'm sure your new battery can't give enough current for Arduino and servo motors. I faced this problem with cheep batteries. Take a look at the text I've wrote on Step 1: &quot;9V alkaline battery or 7.2V &ndash; 8.4V accumulator. Pay attention that Zinc-carbon batteries can't give enough current so don't use them.&quot;</p><p>Billgudule, add a &quot;made it!&quot; comment, please :)</p><p>I am so glad to see one more Ringo!</p>
<p>cheap*</p><p>Oh, why can't we edit our comments!?</p>
<p>Hi Mr. Dmitry</p><p>Thanks for sharing your Ringo.</p><p>I make Ringo with full guide from you, it's my first robot i made.</p><p>I am happy can make it :)</p><p>Thanks for your tutorial.</p>
<p>Hi Bachank,<br>Thank you for making Ringo!<br>Could you post its photo in Made-It comment, please? It will be very nice to see your Ringo here too.</p>
Hi DmitryDzz, I made Ringo! Thank you for posting this great robot! <br><br>I have a problem though. The side legs tend to move around to the front and cause to go to get twisted up and fall over. I don't know if my legs are right. Do you have a new template for the middle legs by chance? Do you have more pictures of the leg assembly? <br><br>I can't wait to fix ringo. <br><br>Thank you!
<p>Hi brandanop,</p><p>yes, that's my fault... It's really hard to make a good flat template of these middle legs. So read my &quot;Two remarks about middle legs&quot; again, please. I think that's the answer on your question.</p><p>And thanks for making Ringo! Add Made-It comment after all, please</p>
Thanks Dmitry!<br><br>Tonight I plan to do the following:<br>1. Remove all legs<br>2. Power on Ringo and press stop to return the servos to the middle position. <br>3. Adjust the servo arms to make sure they are positioned as shown in your pictures. I will tighten the arms to make sure they are tight as well. <br>4. Remake the middle legs including the two notes. <br>5. Reglue all legs. <br>6. Make minor adjustments. <br>7. Upload pictures<br><br>Thanks again!
<p>Thank you for answering. I will upload pictures as soon as I get new legs back on. I had it working pretty well, but decided to try to make new legs again and it made the problem worse. I will definitely re-read the middle legs remarks again. Do I have to make sure the servos are in a specific position? It seems like the side legs are able to move too far forward. I was thinking of adding a piece of plastic to the body to prevent the legs from moving too far forward. </p><p>You really did a wonderful job making Ringo. It has given me great confidence to try to build more. Thank you again. </p>
<p>Check that after sending stop command (all servos will be moved to middle position) the middle servo horn is in horizontal position. And one more thing... You can decrease the middle servo amplitude changing CENTRAL_SERVO_AMPLITUDE constant in &quot;ir_ringo.ino&quot;. But I think this can also decrease Ringo's speed.</p>
<p>В статье в &quot;Хакере&quot; неправильная цоколёвка ИК-приёмника?</p>
<p>No, the pinout is correct. I think you've missed &quot;разводка для TSOP2136&quot;. And I wrote in this instructable: &quot;WARNING! This circuit is made for IR receiver TSOP2136. Yours can differ. Check the datasheet for your receiver first&quot;. Good luck!</p>
<p>Да, у разных моделей разные цоколёвки <a href="http://www.vishay.com/docs/82460/tsop45.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://www.vishay.com/docs/82460/tsop45.pdf </a> . Зато те, у которых земля в центре, легко вставляются в Ардуино (для теста пультов).</p>
<p>Здорово!</p><p>Дмитрий огромное спасибо за статью! Постараемся повторить!</p><p>Спалила коробка с надписью &quot;Скрепки&quot; :))))</p>
<p>Shh... Don't tell a soul :)</p><p>I saw your site and the 1st place in robotics competition. Congratulations! That's great! I hope you'll like Ringo</p>
<p>A puzzle! My friends asked me: &quot;Why the beetle's name is Ringo?&quot;</p><p>There is an answer :) It is in my last video (step 9)</p>
<p>I love this and the music! thanks for sharing your hard work and have fun with them! </p><p>sunshiine</p>
<p>Thank you!</p>
<p>When he turns around, he looks like he's dancing :D</p>
<p>He can dance! :)</p><p>Take a look at the last step</p>
<p>I clicked on that video right after I commented! I just love it :D</p>

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