Beginner Sewing - Make a summer hat pattern from scratch

Step 2 Seam allowance and pinning

Explaining seam allowances

If you cut out pieces that are exactly the correct size and sew them together, the item will be too small, because sewing the edges together takes away some fabric.

For beginners, it is good to leave a 1/2 inch of extra fabric all the way around.  this is referred to as a "seam allowance".  If you sew too close to the edge, the item will end up being a little bit bigger than you intended, but you will still be able to wear it, and you can always take it in.  If you sew too far away from the edge, the item will end up a little smaller than you intended. 

Once you make something too small, there is very little you can do to fix it.  So, if you are a beginner at sewing, it is almost always better to round up your measurements to the next 1/4 inch and leave a full 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Think about your pattern pieces and where you will need to add the seam allowance:  All the way around the top piece.  All the way around the rectangle for the sides.  All the way around the outside of the donut and also all the way around the inside of the donut. 

Adding a seam allowance to the inside of the donut will seem strange at first, because you will think that it will make the hole in the hat too small to fit on your head.  You are right.  After the pieces are sewn together correctly, the seam allowance will be edited so that the finished hat will be the correct size.  (See step 7)

Pinning for a sewing machine

Look at the photos throughout this Instructable to see how the pieces are pinned.

If you insert pins perpendicular to the edge of the fabric and pointing toward the edge, most sewing machines can sew right over them without having to remove them. If the pins have large balls on them, slide them away from the edge of the sewing machine's presser foot, so it won't get stuck.

Be careful and go slowly when you are trying this for the first time.  I have broken needles when sewing too quickly over pins.  If a seam requires a lot of pinning, it is probably complicated enough to require a slow pace, anyway.