WARNING: There will be math in this tutorial! You have been warned!
Step 1: Make/Get the Hoop Skirt
Step 2: Get You Measurements
- bottom of the hoop skirt. Lets call this BHS for ease.
- With the hoop skirt on, measure from the waist, down the side of the hoop skirt to the point you want the skirt to hang (just above the floor). WARNING: simply measuring from you waist to the floor will not work. You need that added size of the hoop skirt. Let's call this measurement SL (skirt length).
Step 3: Design the Under Skirt
The lower part of the skirt is double box pleated, so it will require more fabric. I wanted the pleats to be centered on the part that is ruched up with the space in-between flat. So lets look at the measurements.
To make the 8 panels for the upper part of the under skirt, you will need to take the BHS and divide it by eight (obvious right?). Take that number and add 1.25 (this is a 5/8" seam allowance on both sides). This will be the width of the panel. The height is about 1/2 to 2/3 of SL, depending on what you prefer. I did about 2/3, then rounded down to the nearest inch. So if SL is 46 then (2/3)*45=30.667 which I would move to 30". You can change it all depending on how high up you would like the ruch of the skirt. Then add 1.25" for the seam allowance on both sides.
I made the pleated part of the skirt out of 16 panels, though you can combine panels if you would like less sewing. The height of the panel is 1/3 to 1/2 of SL (depending on what you chose for the upper part) with 5/8" seam allowance on the top, plus about 1" on the bottom for the hem. The width is a little more complicated. What needs to happen is that two panels need to become the width of one of the upper panels. One of these panels is normal, but the other is double box pleated, meaning that is will require 3X the fabric. So here comes the math.
Lower Panel Width = LPW
BHS/8 = LPW + LPW/3 (these are the two panesl with one divided by three for the box pleat).
BHS/8 = LPW (4/3)
LPW = (3/4) BHS/8 = (3/32)*BHS
You will then need to add 1.25" to the LPW for seam allowance on both sides. So the final width is (3/32)*BHS + 1.24 . Like I warned earlier, there was math involved. Sorry for that.
Refer to the drawings for help (though note that they are not draw to scale).
Step 4: Design the Upper Skirt
Step 5: Design the Waistband
Step 6: Get Materials
You will also need:
- interfacing for the waistband
- hook and eye
Step 7: Make the Lower Skirt
Then sew the 16 lower panels into a loop. To make the hem, just roll up the bottom, press and sew. You will then take every other panel and fold it into the double box pleat (see drawing). Baste around the top to hold the pleats in place. Then press down the pleats.
Attach the lower part to the upper, with the center of the pleated section hitting the seams on the upper part. Press towards the waist.
Step 8: Make the Upper Skirt
First, determine high thick you would like the gathered section to be. Gather up at the seam to the thickness you would like. There are different techniques for ruching. Some involve elastics. You decide what works for your skirt. I used a pretty light fabrics, so I just basted near the seam and used that to gather up the skirt. I then tied off the ends, and did a normal stitch over the gathered part to hold it in place.
Make sure that you don't gather the skirt up so high that it doesn't cover all of the upper part of the under skirt.
Step 9: Attach the Two Skirts
Before gathering, take the outside of the waistband. Ignoring the seam allowance and the overlap, divide the rest of the waistband into 8. You want the seams to occur evenly around the waist. Pin the outside of the waist line to the skirt with right sides together matching at the marks. Remember that the overlap should occur so that the left side is over the right. Gather in the skirt. Baste into place then sew.