The secret to the process is using a controlled heat source and spreading it out. In a word keep: it moving, keep it rotating. (OK, that was more than "a" word)
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Signing UpStep 1: Heating the pipe
PVC is a thermoplastic - which means that it becomes soft when heat is applied. You can use this little tidbit of knowledge to heat and re-form the pipe to a new shape without compromising its physical properties ... if you are patient.
The best tool for heating the pipe is a heat gun - available for around $25 from your local hardware big box or online (search: 1500 watt dual temperature heat gun). You can also take your piece of pipe into the kitchen and use your stove top - just make sure your wife isn't home. What doesn't work so well is a propane (or MAPP) torch as the heat is too concentrated and charring the PVC is highly likely. Save the torch for making your PVC diggerydoo ... but that's another instructible.
The key to the technique is constant movement - move the PVC pipe or the heat source back and forth over a 12" or so area and keep the pipe rotating all the while. After 3 or 4 minutes, the piece of pipe will start to sag. Keep it moving and rotating and begin bending it while rotating it - all the while keeping the heat on.





































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For bending small pipe in non-complicated bends a Morris PVC Pipe Spring Bender
can be used.They make then for up to 2.5" pipe, but anything over 1" requires some mechanical advantage. ie, a very long piece of pipe that you are bending in the middle, and 3 people. One in the middle, and one on each end of the pipe.You can only make single simple bends with the Spring Bender.
We use a special oven to make hoops and u-bends. It requires experience to get it correct. Temperature and technique are critical to get pieces you can use w/to being deformed.
First, it's almost certainly in the water you drink, so using it in a potable system should be fine.
Sure, chlorine gas is toxic, but unless you are performing this practice indoors, 8 hours a day, 5 days a week, your exposure to the low levels you might receive will do little more than give you a sore throat. You'll breathe higher levels of chlorine gas at a public swimming pool.
If you're a weekend DIY warrior, and you're working outside with or without a breeze, you'd be hard pressed to exceed exposure limits.
And, yes, there is documentation about this.
Here's a link to an MSDS for PVC. A search for MSDS PVC ought to net more results.
http://www.solusii.com/PDFs/PVC-MSDS.pdf
If you take the time to read it you will find that it says "Resperatory Protection" is "Not normally required. If overheating results in decomposition resulting in smoke or fumes, a NIOSH/MSHA approved combination high efficiency particulate filter with organic vapor cartridge can be used ... "
If you are worried about the fumes, don't heat your PCV ... or get yourself one of those approved resiprators. This ain't rocket science ... just do your own homework.
Do your homework, kids.
I remember years ago I saw an article about a man that was using pvc pipe to make "futuristic" lamps (it was an ooooold article). Anyway, what he did was take 1" to 1-1/2" pvc pipe, cut it to longer than he thought he would need, and push a cap (not glued) on the end. Then he would heat up a disposable casserole dish full of sand in his oven (don't remember the temp-sorry) and then would pour the sand into the pipe. As I recall, after a few minutes the pipe would soften and then he could bend it without it kinking, When it was in the shape he wanted he would run cold water over the pipe and into the sand to cool everything off and stiffen it up again. The rest was just regular lamp building stuff. But I always thought this would be a handy thing to try someday!! I've used a heat gun to soften pvc to make holsters for various tools myself. Just don't char it because it does release chlorine gas which is really nasty stuff. Kill you quick. Your mileage may vary.
The end effect looks like this: http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3RSIzMTfX7A/0.jpg
(bindings are made of rubber tire innertubes from old tractor tires with some bolts for traction. I'm sure theres an instructable out there for doing them if you looked)
I had an exterior electrical J-box made-up with 6 PVC conduits w/ wires run and everything that got rejected in an inspection ... supposedly because there was a stand-pipe too close in front of it. I put a canvas tarp over the whole thing (to help contain the heat) and got out my heat gun. It took about 15 minutes to heat up all 6 conduits but once everything was nice and hot, I was able to rotate the entire J-box a full 90 degees, conduits still in place. Another 5 minutes to cool it off and it looked perfect (and got passed in the next inspection).
I could not believe that this actually works but it does and it is fast and easy.
BTW there are lots of youtube videos of that.
I had done the pipework the day before for a bathroom vanity with CPVC which is less brittle than PVC. I hadn't put in the vanity yet as I was working on the toilet beside it. My Dad came into the bathroom and bumped the pipe. It snapped off cleaner than a whistle.
But when I had experience with both (over 30 years ago) it sure seemed like PVC was the more brittle of the two.
Heat bending PVC pipe or conduit is useful only in an absolute emergency.
Bending conduit using a naked gas flame or an electric heat gun is not as easy as presented and the PVC pipe or conduit emits very toxic carcinogenic gases when heated.
Electrical PVC conduit is a very quirky material to heat bend. Even with perfect attention and skill, even new PVC pipe and conduit will not dissipate heat evenly, and will loose heat very fast when the heat source is moved. Old or PVC pipe and conduit exposed to the sun’s UV rays is too brittle to heat or spring bend; it will snap.
New PVC pipe and conduit is designed to be cold bent with an internal spring bender. As an apprentice electrician I spent 4 years on high rise buildings bending ¾ inch conduct, laying it on steel before the concrete floor was poured.
I have seen electricians bend ¾ inch new PVC conduct over their knee cap making a perfect bend, without the use of heat or a spring bender.
That was over 40 years ago. The modern range of PVC conduit almost bends itself.
In fact, most Australian electricians don’t use PVC bends any more. They use flexible corrugated PVC conduit and couplings.
Standard pvc pipe can also be heated in oil until it reaches around 375 dgrees F and insert a larger diameter pipe, rod, or other tool to make the bell end for a pipe then cool with water so it will retain the shape. I did this where I used to work because all the hardware stores were closed and we had a pipe that HAD to be repaired and we had no couplings....