Bezel-Setting Tutorial

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by MaggieJs
 

introBezel-Setting Tutorial

Make your own bezel-set ring or other piece of jewelry following this tutorial!

You will need:
Basic to intermediate metalsmithing skills
soldering equipment
pickling solution
Jewelers saw
shears/snips
set of jewelers files
sandpaper grits 200-400 or 600
Fine silver bezel wire, 30 gauge, appropriate height for selected stone
Sterling silver sheet, 24 or 26 gauge, for backing the bezel
Sterling silver stock for ring band, bail, earwires, pinback, etc
Bezel pusher
Burnisher
Ring mandrel (used to hold the ring in place while pushing bezel)
Bezel-Setting Tutorial
 
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step 1Select an object to bezel set.

For this tutorial, I will be using an ocean jasper cabochon (flat bottom, smooth round surface). Any flat bottomed object will work for following this tutorial, such as a button, glass, etc.
Select an object to bezel set.
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27 comments
Jun 26, 2008. 4:45 PMdanyellclark says:
Maggie, I was delighted to see your demonstration. I am now taking a metalsmith class in MD. Last night, I just finished my 22.30 sterling silver advertine ring. I was so excited. My teacher is great, but it was good to see the step by step to remind me. Tonight, I am going to attempt to finish my black agate bezel ring. I agree with you regarding the sterling silver bezel. Sterling silver bezel was used to make this ring because it was all we had the night I began making it. Since then, I have used fine silver and my instructor stated the exact problem you stated regarding the sterling silver bezel. Could you share where you got your name tag stamp. I have search a couple of sites but was just interested in where you got your from. Thanks again, and please continue to post your tutorials...they are helping us new comers. Danyell
Jan 28, 2010. 1:28 AMmcshawnboy says:
 I'm in MD too, is UR teacher/class close to cebtral MD?  A friend & I love crafts and interesting in tuning our skills. Thanks! Shawn
Mar 18, 2010. 9:09 AMsublingual says:
Don't worry, Shawn, the Patuxent Lapidary Guild's class covers setting cabs! ;)

Oh, and a shameless plug for everyone else in the Baltimore-DC area: www.patuxentlapidary.org
Mar 18, 2010. 9:54 PMmcshawnboy says:
 Thanks Sub!  I took a chain maille class & joined UR guild 22 FEB 10 & visited Albert for a walk through of the cab equipment the following Monday.  I'm set for a 2 day casting class in April as 6 days of driving 50 miles one way is prohibitive, once in a while not too bad!  It sounds amazing to free pour into liquid to make a 3-D piece.  Anybody near to Annapolis,MD would benefit from checking them out!
Mar 19, 2010. 7:15 AMsublingual says:
Yup!

Oh, and I got the wire in--as soon as I get done with Ellie's 1,000 rings, I'll start working on yours ;)
Jun 21, 2008. 11:14 PMtheRIAA says:
jewelry class was my favorite class in highschool... too bad it's over D: our teacher gave us pre-made bezels with 5mm round and 8mm oval stones. He said we were all to stupid to make bezels for scratch (most people were). he said you should always cut out some spacer and stick it under the stone so the stone looks bigger, but I don't know if that's the look you're going for. it looks great! we had little stone setter taps, just a rod with a round shaped hole and a spring loaded plastic point inside to hold the stone down. set it on top and hammer down. :P The taps got lost once, and I couldn't set my stones, I tried squeezing the bezel with needle noses, but it kept prying open the other way, and the stone was always loose until i found the setter. iv'e always liked the darkened hammer mark look. It looks even better if you sandblast then hammer, then burnish, then darken, then re-burnish. The sandblasting adds little holes everywhere.
Mar 18, 2010. 9:12 AMsublingual says:
I have some Argentium bezel strip--like regular sterling, it's harder than .999 fine silver, but there's hardly any firescale. Argentium is basically .930 sterling with germanium added, rather than all copper, to the remaining 7%.
Jun 22, 2008. 3:22 PMtheRIAA says:
i think they were brass... lol. he had about 200 of them in a bin with different colored stones. and yes, they look bad when you solder to a flat piece of metal, but remember. This is a highschool class with a $10/semester materials fee. The last day I cast a big hunk of sterling silver into some rings. They were a lot harder than i thought they would be, but that's good in this case. they turned out awesomely.
Mar 15, 2010. 5:49 AMloveresin says:
how many pieces of solder do you need?..at the top and bottom and both sides?..im doing a bezel set for an exhibition at uni and i want to learn as much as i can about how to do it properly..thankyou
hannah
May 31, 2009. 2:06 PMSallyForth says:
The two instructables you have posted are the best two I've seen on this site. But you no longer appear active. Did someone hire you away? Your work is that good.
May 20, 2009. 2:52 PMlunastyx says:
Thanks. This was very helpful. I have a number of man-in-the-moon moonstones that I want to bezel mount and think I can do it now. I am glad I have taken a couple of jewelry fab classes, though. VERY informative. Thanks.
May 20, 2009. 2:43 PMlunastyx says:
How much higher than your stone should the bezel be, please?
Aug 27, 2008. 12:03 PMItsTheHobbs says:
That's a really neat rock.
Jul 26, 2008. 9:20 AMJawatech says:
Very Cool! Where do you get your bezel wire and silver stock from?
Jun 22, 2008. 10:09 AMFather Christmas says:
just out of curiosity, about what size would you estimate that piece? i noticed on your mandrel, the piece seemed to be well beyond 13.
Jul 2, 2008. 10:10 AMFather Christmas says:
ok, thank you for clarifying that for me :)
Jun 28, 2008. 2:20 PMLinuxH4x0r says:
Very nice!
Jun 23, 2008. 8:38 AMjessyratfink says:
This is amazing! I'd love to do stuff like this. It's always good to know more about it. :D
Jun 22, 2008. 11:15 PMargosxilow says:
excellent 'ible! I'm still a neophyte jeweler, and have only made a few bezels, all of which my jewelry teacher set the stones for. Can't wait to try actually setting them myself, not to mention I really need to practice making bezels.
Jun 22, 2008. 7:04 PMSlothOnSpeed says:
Thank you so much for the superb instructable. I have all the requisite materials here (in Sterling, alas) to make a pin, but I lacked the directions and the confidence to begin. With your Instructable, I feel a lot more confident and know what I'll be starting tomorrow morning.
Jun 21, 2008. 6:14 PMmrbob1000 says:
if only i had the materials and more knowhow... *sigh* i wanna make some (some with something like amber) and give them as gifts.
Jun 22, 2008. 7:54 AMgmoon says:
Superb instructable! You don't find many this well documented (and illustrated.)

Nice.