Make your own bezel-set ring or other piece of jewelry following this tutorial!
You will need:
Basic to intermediate metalsmithing skills
set of jewelers files
sandpaper grits 200-400 or 600
Fine silver bezel wire, 30 gauge, appropriate height for selected stone
Sterling silver sheet, 24 or 26 gauge, for backing the bezel
Sterling silver stock for ring band, bail, earwires, pinback, etc
Ring mandrel (used to hold the ring in place while pushing bezel)
Step 1: Select an object to bezel set.
For this tutorial, I will be using an ocean jasper cabochon (flat bottom, smooth round surface). Any flat bottomed object will work for following this tutorial, such as a button, glass, etc.
Step 2: Bezel wire length
Shape fine silver bezel wire around stone to determine length, mark and cut. You want the bezel to be slightly larger than the stone - but not too loose. Knowing the right length will come with practice.
Step 3: Trim height
Trim any extra height from the bezel with snips.
Step 4: File the ends flush.
Using a flat rectangular file, gently file the ends completely flat and flush with one another. They need to line up perfectly for soldering.
Step 5: Matching up the ends
Make sure the ends meet up perfectly - no light should shine through.
At this point, it is not important if the bezel is the same shape of the stone - getting a proper join is the key, shaping will come later.
Step 6: Solder the bezel
Flus and solder the seam with a tiny piece of Hard solder, applied to the inside of the bezel. Pickle, rinse.
Step 7: Shape the bezel
Shape bezel around stone by gently pushing it over the stone with your fingers - it will be very soft and flexible (annealed) after soldering It helps to have a hard, smooth surface beneath, such as a steel block.
Step 8: Smooth the edges
Sand both edges smooth with fine grit sandpaper (300-400)
Make sure to apply even pressure, or you will end up with a lop-sided bezel. It helps to move in a circular motion.