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Make your own bezel-set ring or other piece of jewelry following this tutorial! You will need: Basic to intermediate metalsmithing skills soldering e...
For this tutorial, I will be using an ocean jasper cabochon (flat bottom, smooth round surface). Any flat bottomed object will work for following thi...
Shape fine silver bezel wire around stone to determine length, mark and cut. You want the bezel to be slightly larger than the stone - but not too lo...
Trim any extra height from the bezel with snips.
Using a flat rectangular file, gently file the ends completely flat and flush with one another. They need to line up perfectly for soldering.
Make sure the ends meet up perfectly - no light should shine through. At this point, it is not important if the bezel is the same shape of the ston...
Flus and solder the seam with a tiny piece of Hard solder, applied to the inside of the bezel. Pickle, rinse.
Shape bezel around stone by gently pushing it over the stone with your fingers - it will be very soft and flexible (annealed) after soldering It help...
Sand both edges smooth with fine grit sandpaper (300-400) Make sure to apply even pressure, or you will end up with a lop-sided bezel. It helps to m...
Check the height of the bezel wall - it needs to just pass the "shoulder" of the stone. If it is too tall, continue sanding until the appropriate hei...
Cut a piece of sheet metal for the base of the bezel - it should be slightly larger than the bezel, and will be trimmed after soldering. Stamp any lo...
Set up the bezel on a tripod and screen - this will allow you to heat the piece from below. If heating from above, the bezel wire, being much thinner...
Solder the bezel to a flat piece of sterling silver using Hard or Medium solder Place the small pieces of solder on the inside of the bezel for easie...
Use the jewelers saw to cut away the remaining silver sheet. You could also leave a border around the stone if you'd like.
File and sand the bezel cup - finish with 400 grit sandpaper. Next, (not shown) solder bezel cup to ring base or other component for your piece of je...
Once all soldering and clean-up has been completed, place the stone in the bezel. Make sure the stone sits completely flat in the bezel, and does not...
Begin folding over the bezel with a burnisher or bezel roller (I am using a burnisher) I find it easiest to start at any corners or tight round edges...
Once the bezel has been pushed down over the entire piece, begin burnishing the bezel over the cabochon. It is extremely important that your burnishe...
Continue burnishing the bezel over the stone. This will work-harden the metal, making sure the stone stays in place, as well as makes the bezel nice ...
Once burnishing is complete, you can leave as is, or, as shown here, use a patina solution such as Liver of Sulfur to darken the metal. After the pat...
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Posted:Jun 21, 2008
How to make a simple bezel setting
Part 1 of 2: How to make a Basic Ring
Part 2 of 2: How to make a Basic Ring
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