Bias Lighting Panel

I know there are plenty of these on here, but I figured I'd take my stab at it. For those that don't know, bias lighting adds to your viewing experience while in low lighting by enhancing darks and colors on the screen, decreasing eye strain, and looks aesthetically pleasing when done correctly. It can be done in different colors, and some can be done to change color even in sync with the screen. 
Mine will show you how to create a static white bias lighting bar to attach to the back of your TV, powered by a USB port on your computer. I did this mainly because I have my computer plugged into my TV and USB ports put out a nice 5V, which works well for this application and reduces the need for any kind of power converter.

As a disclaimer, my electronics knowledge goes as far as one semester in high school. I used a lot of resources, such as http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz  to figure out what resistors to use and wire it all properly. I don't have specific links to other info I found, but I'll fill it in as we go along.

Supplies:
Styrene sheet
3.2V 4mm white LED x 24
100 ohm resistors x 24
Spare USB cable
Solder
Wire
Electrical tape
Heat shrink tubing
5V USB wall adapter (from a smartphone charger works fine)

Tools:
Drill or another tool to make holes
A ruler/measuring tape
Soldering iron
Wire cutter, razor, scissors

LEDs can get a bit expensive. The local Fry's Electronics wanted $20 for 10 3.2V white LEDs. I got 100 for less than $9 including shipping from eBay. Yes, 100 for under $9. Over all, not counting supplies I already had, I spent about $15 on this project. If you have the tools already, all the parts would likely run you another $15-20. 

Step 1 Creating the LED Panel

To house the LEDs I cut out a 30" x 1.75 inch piece from a styrene sheet. I apologize, but I don't recall the thickness. It's ~0.10".
I then drilled 24 holes evenly spaced, just large enough to force fit the LEDs through the holes. I don't really have any experience with many materials, so I went with styrene since I can use Testors modeling cement which basically turns the joints into goo, welding them together, making the casing water, and therefore light, tight. More on the case later.

Using the LED parallel array wizard  with the following info put in:
5V source voltage
3.2 diode forward voltage (commonly read as "Vf" on LED packaging)
20 mA forward current
24 number of LEDs

It suggested to use one 100 ohm resistor for each LED and have it wired in parallel. I did just that, however with limited supplies I used 110 ohm resistors, but it still got the job done.

After all the wiring and soldering was done I neatly wrapped it all with electrical tape. I also laid a layer down on the inside of the styrene panel to avoid any heat built up, and increase rigidity of the part. Sorry, no pictures of this... I was getting tired at this point.