Step 8: Final adjustment

Take the opportunity to lube the derailer so the new cable works effortlessly. Crimp end on cable to keep cable from fraying. This can be done by pinching the small metal sleeve over end of cable and pinching with a pair of pliers.
My bicycle maintenance manual suggests replacing shift cables after 5000 miles. I waited until 7000 miles before changing them. At 7000 miles they were so clean and good that I wondered why I was changing them. But, I have a road bike and my cables operate under fairly clean conditions. I am assuming yours is a mountain bike and it gets dirty in use. How many miles did you have on your cable when it failed, if you know? You might also be interested in a recent Instructable I did on Curing Bicycle Cluster Clatter.
You want to replace your cables before you think need to. Even without visible corrosion, they are stretching and breaking down on the microscopic level. Eventually a strand will fail and then they fail exponentially quicker one by one. Sometimes they stretch and weaken and then fail cataclysmic-ly. Shifting up for sprint for the finish line on the last KM of a race you've trained all year for. Or slamming on your brakes flying downhill as a car pulls out of a driveway without warning. Braking = good. Breaking = horrible<br/>
Hi Phil, My bike had set in the garage more than it was used so the cable froze more due to not being used than miles. I did see your Curing Bicycle Cluster Clatter. Great job! I've always liked the policy if it isn't broke don't fix it, but then that can bite you because you can have a breakdown out on a ride. Ed
I could not tell the condition of my shift cables until I had them apart. By then it was as easy to install the new cables as it would have been to put the old ones back in. Since I was already past the recommended life of the old cables, I decided the new cables were the best course. I had read too many pieces of advise on what to do to limp home if a shift cable breaks out on the road. Thanks for looking at my Instructable and for your favorable comment.
never never WD-40 a bicycle. It was actually developed as a solvent and DE-GREASER for rust prevention on missile parts. It has trace elements of lubrication but it's far to light for bike parts. It forces out existing lubrication (with both it's de-greasers and it's pressure when applied. Leaving your bike running metal on metal. It appears to run smoother because it gets rid of dirt and grime (de greases...) but all lubrication vanishes quickly. BAD BAD news to use on a bike. I'm actually going to politely ask you to remove this picture to deter others from thinking it's okay to use it. It should only be used as a very very light lubricant on household objects like hinges or locks or toys. Never for heavy fast moving applications.
Wow... no wd-40 on a bike there. All bout the oil.

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