Here's a look at the lights in motion:
Here how it looks when using the bike:
Step 1: Investigate
Materials:
LED Rope Light
4 3-Battery Holders
12 AAA Batteries
Hot Glue
Solder
4 10 Ohm Resistors
Wire Ties
Rubber Bands made from old bicycle tubes
Tools:
Multimeter
Soldering Iron
Hot Glue Gun
Razor Blade
Wire Strippers
Wire Cutters
Needle Nose Pliers
Step 2: A New Plan
At this point I was stuck and considered giving up. I slowly realized I had to rewire the whole thing to make it work with batteries. I thought about using a 9V or 2 AAA batteries, but decided on using 3 AAA batteries to power the rope. By using a battery pack on opposite sides of the wheel it should balance out.
I decided to place the LEDs in a parallel circuit without a resistor on each LED. It's generally good practice to place a resistor on each LED when used in parallel, but it would be just too much work soldering all those resistors. So instead I used one resistor on the whole thing. I'm not sure if using using only one defeats the purpose of having a resistor in the first place, but lets just go with it.
I used an online resistor calculator and entered 4.5V (3 x 1.5V) as the source voltage, 2.8V for the LED voltage, and 178 mA (13 LEDs x 13.7mA) for the total current. It recommended a 10 Ohm resistor.
To double check I use Ohm's Law which I remember as V.I.R. or Voltage = Current x Resistance. (Current is always an 'I', I don't know why.)
| So if I have: | V = I x R |
| Then: | R = V / I |
| Insert numbers: | R = (4.5V – 2.8V) / 0.178 A |
| and I get : | R = 9.5 Ohms |
Step 3: Strip
Once I removed the inner section I began cutting the insulation off every 2.5 in. Having the LEDs close together looks cool, but it's more work. Every 2.5 in. seemed good enough. Removing the insulation was harder than I expected. I used wire stripper, a razor blade, and needle nose pliers.
Step 4: Solder and Glue
I used hot glue to insulate and attach the wire to the battery pack. I also injected hot glue into the rope where the soldering was done to insulate the wire and help keep it all together.
Step 5: Finish
Once all four sections were complete, I weaved the rope into place, and wrapped the rubber band around a spoke to secure the batteries. It's turns out to be really easy to add and remove the lights.















































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------Mounting it near the center of the hub. This way it will not suffer the same amount of sentrifugal force (G).
------Connecting it with thin insulated wires glued on the spokes will hopefully be descrete enough to make it look good.
I hope this is a good idea. Anyone tried it?
...wouldn't the whole endeavour have been easier with the application of EL-wire?
(Here, link:) http://youtu.be/D4ZcCuBsfuM
EL Wire is a thing of the past, for a few reasons.
*LED's are brighter than EL wire (as the author has mentioned).
*LED's last longer than EL wire.
*EL wire slowly looses brightness by design, similar to neon. Good quality LED's will not lose brightness.
*EL Wire requires a high voltage inverter (which will eventually die) to power it making it dangerous for hobbyists to work with. LED's use low voltages and consume very low amounts of current making them safe for hobbyists to work with and also ideal for battery-powered projects.
I want to add one thing - a suggestion for you. If you reduce the LED's and have twice less, then you can have twice less batteries on each wheel. I believe that the glowing result will still be the same, because as you spin the wheel eyes cannot separate the diodes and we see it as a glowing circle. On top of that you will reduce the weight and be able to accelerate and stop your bike quicker.
If you move the batteries close to the axle of rotation you will immediately reduce the wheel momentum and achieve the same.
That's for your next bike ;), this one is just awesome.
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-bicycle-wheels/
Mine used 26 LEDs and had the tubing to help diffuse the light. I'd love to see how yours turns out. Good Luck!
only thing is id /really/ want to make sure its on there tight. the last thing i want is it ripping off at high speeds o.o
They would look awesome, but sadly we do not live on The Grid and we cannot have blue light wheels everywhere.
Any visible LED's would make your wheel wells look like disco Stu did your mechanical work.
if i apply a decent coat of it, it glows much brighter than regular glow in the dark paint, and the glow lasts for a long time. id only have to have the LEDs on for a short while, then i could switch them off and the paint would stay glowing all night long.
the sun would charge up the phosphorescent paint during the day too.
I would be interested to see your glow paint that could last all night long.
is the paint im talking about.