This is a bicycle cart that is built from a recycled camping cot, only requires hand tools for construction and is SUPER lightweight. I have not seen anything exactly like it on the web so I thought I would share it here.
I actually built this several years ago so I don’t have any ‘in-process’ photos, but I believe there is enough detail in the ‘as-built’ photos and narrative that you can knock this together quite easily. I had wanted to build something from old lawn furniture for some time, but couldn’t figure a good way to connect the pieces until I found that ¾” copper pipe fit perfectly inside the lightweight one inch tubing used in most aluminum furniture. My Eureka moment, so to speak.

First, the list of materials and tools:

An tubular aluminum camp cot – its important that the legs and bed frame are identical in
width and bend radius. Other aluminum furniture, such as a chaise lounge,
would work also.
Some flat aluminum – 1 1/2 to 4 inches in width – a good hardware store should have this
in their metal rack
Some one inch aluminum flat straps of lightweight thickness (easily bendable)
A length of ¾” copper pipe
10 foot length of aluminum conduit
No. 10 x 1 ½ inch bolts, nuts, washers
1/8 x ¼ inch pop rivets
A threaded rod – for the axle – diameter depends on wheel hub bearing diameter
Nuts, washers and lock washers for axle
Four U-bolts
Wheels – I got mine from Northern Tool (on web)

Pop rivet gun
Tubing cutter
Hack saw
Electric drill and various bits

Step 1: Step 1  Assemble the Top and Bottom Frames

First, of course, you will need to disassemble the cot by drilling or grinding off the rivets. Save everything for later. Next, lay the legs on a flat surface facing each other. (See drawing) Mark and cut the tubing. Offset the cuts as shown to add some strength. Next cut a short length of copper pipe – 8 inches or so – and insert it halfway in one end, drill an 1/8” hole and pop rivet the tube to the pipe. One hint here: Drill and rivet one hole at a time or you will find the holes get out of alignment. Install another piece of pipe in the other end of the same leg and repeat. Now slip the other leg onto the pipe and rivet it and you have the top or bottom done. Make another rectangular frame out of the other two pieces of tubing, being sure that it is identical to the first.
<p>would a plywood base give more support to the threaded rod? it might also eliminate the need for all the cross bars- although it would add weight. </p>
If you put the threaded rod through a piece of metal pipe in which it fits closely, it will have much more strength.
Good idea. Thanks!
Very good ingenuity! I like.
This is an EXCELLENT Instructable!&nbsp; However, there is one point [probably not for the author who realizes this] I'd like to make [or the information/benefit of novices.&nbsp; And it is&nbsp;important to consider this <strong>before bending</strong> the tongue/towbar.<br> <br> In the introductory frame photo, the forward section of the tongue/towbar IS TOO SHORT!!!<br> <br> As a result, with THIS particular combination of bicycle and the way the trailer is now attached, one can ONLY make LEFT TURNS!!!!!&nbsp; IF the trailer tongue were attached&nbsp;on the RIGHT side of the rear wheel, then one could only make RIGHT turns!!!!!<br> <br> I realize that this bike/trailer setup probably&nbsp;was just for making the picture, and that you probably use another bike for actual use of the trailer.&nbsp; You also mention in the text the possibility of attaching the tongue to a luggage rack or other support.&nbsp; As this would be above and behind the top of the rear wheel, the interference problem would not occur.<br> <br> <strong>However, for the novices,</strong> <strong>IF</strong> the leading/forward section [as illustrated in the introductory photo]&nbsp;of the tongue/towbar were made long enough and attached slightly HIGHER on the seat poast, then full left and right turns could be made without any interference of the tongue&nbsp;with the&nbsp;rear wheel.<br> <br> Again, this is an excellent instructable, which exhibits great ingenuity in the design and planning of the structure, the execution of the assembly, and excellent photodocumentation of the assembly process.
Thanks and good comment. You are absolutely correct. I had the cart set up to hook to another bike that had a rear rack and I just hooked to that with a carbiner. There are lots better hitch arrangements that would work with this cart but as you can tell I'm into easy, simple and CHEAP!!!
Very cool! You know you could possibly use the &quot;Attach a triler hitch to a Pannier Rack&quot; instructable and curve the tow bar a little to accommodate it? Just an idea, I still like this very much!

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