Big Ass AXE





Introduction: Big Ass AXE

About: I like to produce something and share, thanks a lot to instructables...

Hello dear instructables users, Im here with a new project :)

My commence point was a necessity, I needed small and heavy axe convinient for easy carrying, store


-Angle grinder

-Metal file

-Sand piper

-G clamp

-Adhesive and cutter discs for angle grinder


Scrap metal plate ( Tractor plough )

Step 1: Draw Your Pattern

Step 2: Cut Excessive Parts

Step 3: Smoothing the Edges

Step 4: Draw the Cutting Edge Line

Step 5: Filing and Grinding Cutting Edge

İf I have belt sander, it would be better.

Step 6: Fine Grinding

Step 7: Drilling Holes for Light Weight

Step 8: Tempering

I used regular charcoal in order to gain enough heat

Step 9: Cooled in Water

I didnt have oil because of that I used water

Step 10: Wooden Handle Making

I used oak for handle

Step 11: Gorilla Glue for Gluing

Step 12: Clamping

Step 13: Sanding and Smoothing

Step 14: Finish :)

I used tung oil protecting for handle

For satisfying sharpness I used finest metal file, cheap sharpening stone, water sandpaper ( 100, 150, 200 grit)

Thanks for your interest, see you soon with a new project :)



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    What grit disk did you use in your angle grinder to sharpen the blade?

    1 reply

    I used hand file at the beginnig, after this process, used metal abrasive disc and flap disk

    I was wondering why you did not use any rivets or anything else but glue to hold the handle on? I've made a one or two thinks like this in the past and have found out from experance that glue alone just does not cut it.

    1 reply

    With epoxy, they'll likely stay on just fine for a very long time. It forms a very hard and very durable resin. My first terrible knives just had epoxy holding on the handles, and they're still on just fine.

    Really nice simple idea. Now I have to go find a big ass piece of scrap to build one.

    1 reply

    Make sure it's something you know is high carbon, or buy some known steel like 1095/1085/1075. I work primarily in 1095, but 1085 and 1075 work just fine for big heavy choppers, and are more forgiving when heat-treating, and aren't very expensive. I buy my steel from New Jersey Steel Baron. Good folks there. They ship quickly, and have a great selection in lots of sizes.

    If you're really strapped for cash, or have a need to re-purpose, I would suggest very old files or very old mill blades. New files and saw blades sometimes are mostly made of low-carbon steel, with just a tiny bit of good steel welded to the working area, making them unsuitable. In the past, this wasn't the case, as the labor needed to do this cost more than the savings in using less good steel. Now, though, robots can weld it all together in a fraction of a second, so it now makes economic sense.

    I hear leaf springs are decent, but haven't tried them, so I can't personally vouch.

    yes it would for a few minutes until it is cooled

    Not nearly that long, at least with canola oil as a quenchant (best low cost quenchant I know of). When I do a medium sized blade like a chef's knife, it might flare up for five or six seconds. When I do my big choppers, it might be ten or fifteen seconds.

    I use canola oil as a quenchant, which works very well for many grades of non-stainless high-carbon steel. It flares up on top for a moment, and then stops. The fire doesn't heat the rest of the oil enough to keep the flame going.

    Some people use old motor-oil, and I don't know how it does. Not something I'd use, as it's a lot smellier, and doesn't work quite as well. My basement just smells like cheap french fries for a while after I quench.

    No, quickly cooling the metal with water is called quenching, and actually softens the metal.

    Heating (non-stainless) steel to critical and cooling slowly softens it. For example, I anneal files for knifemaking by heating them up in my forge, and jamming them in a bucket of vermiculite to cool down very slowly.

    When you heat steel and then cool it quickly, this hardens the steel. Generally water cools too quickly, and can lead to the steel cracking. Some people do water for a moment, and finish in oil. Personally, I heat to critical (~1500f for non-stainless), and quench in room temp canola oil. After that, the steel is in fact too hard, and is brittle. I temper in an oven at 450 for two hours (for 1095 steel, which is what I primarily work with) to soften it enough to remove the brittle quality.

    Stainless is different, but it's not something I'm set up to work with, so I can't speak to the process much.

    dwathen, I am sorry to point out to you that quenching does NOT soften the metal. Just for info, I have been a welder for over 25 years and a blacksmith for 16 years.

    That was a heat treat, not a temper. Tempering is reducing hardness afterwards, which can be done in an oven or toaster oven.

    Quenching in water is a bad idea, generally. High carbon steel often fractures when quenching in water. If your blade survives it, it may be that the carbon content is too low for it to harden, or that you didn't get the blade hot enough. The temperature needed for most high carbon steels is around 1500 F. Test with a magnet. When it goes non-magnetic, you're approaching critical.

    The temperature to temper at is difficult to say exactly, but with unknown steels, I generally do 450 F for a pair of two hour cycles.


    Thank you for your information, I will uptade the title


    It appears that step 8 is hardening... and I see no tempering step at all. Also, I saw that this was a scrap piece of plow blade? Do you know what the actual steel is? This is important to know BEFORE you start on a blade project.

    Some steel grades simply don't have enough carbon content to be hardened, so they are not worth any effort to shape. Other grades of steel make for very good blades (when properly hardened and tempered)... but you need to know what you're working with in order to achieve decent hardness and temper.

    PS - IGNORE shows like "Forged in Fire" as they are terribly misleading. They barely cover hardening, and they don't even show the tempering step. This misleads folks into thinking that the blade is "ready" after a simple heat/quench.

    Tempering does not mean heating in fire... tempering is done ...after... hardening, because when you harden a piece of steel it is brittle and may sometimes easily crack.

    That means that you should heat it after hardening in water or oil. Heat it to 230°C (which is possible in an oven) and keep it there for an hour and that should do ;)

    I was wondering why you did not use any rivets or anything else but glue to hold the handle on? I've made a one or two thinks like this in the past and have found out from experance that glue alone just does not cut it.