Big Ass AXE





Introduction: Big Ass AXE

Hello dear instructables users, Im here with a new project :)

My commence point was a necessity, I needed small and heavy axe convinient for easy carrying, store


-Angle grinder

-Metal file

-Sand piper

-G clamp

-Adhesive and cutter discs for angle grinder


Scrap metal plate ( Tractor plough )

Step 1: Draw Your Pattern

Step 2: Cut Excessive Parts

Step 3: Smoothing the Edges

Step 4: Draw the Cutting Edge Line

Step 5: Filing and Grinding Cutting Edge

İf I have belt sander, it would be better.

Step 6: Fine Grinding

Step 7: Drilling Holes for Light Weight

Step 8: Tempering

I used regular charcoal in order to gain enough heat

Step 9: Cooled in Water

I didnt have oil because of that I used water

Step 10: Wooden Handle Making

I used oak for handle

Step 11: Gorilla Glue for Gluing

Step 12: Clamping

Step 13: Sanding and Smoothing

Step 14: Finish :)

I used tung oil protecting for handle

For satisfying sharpness I used finest metal file, cheap sharpening stone, water sandpaper ( 100, 150, 200 grit)

Thanks for your interest, see you soon with a new project :)



    • Science of Cooking

      Science of Cooking
    • Pocket-Sized Contest

      Pocket-Sized Contest
    • Microcontroller Contest

      Microcontroller Contest

    We have a be nice policy.
    Please be positive and constructive.




    What grit disk did you use in your angle grinder to sharpen the blade?


    I used hand file at the beginnig, after this process, used metal abrasive disc and flap disk

    I was wondering why you did not use any rivets or anything else but glue to hold the handle on? I've made a one or two thinks like this in the past and have found out from experance that glue alone just does not cut it.

    With epoxy, they'll likely stay on just fine for a very long time. It forms a very hard and very durable resin. My first terrible knives just had epoxy holding on the handles, and they're still on just fine.

    Really nice simple idea. Now I have to go find a big ass piece of scrap to build one.

    Make sure it's something you know is high carbon, or buy some known steel like 1095/1085/1075. I work primarily in 1095, but 1085 and 1075 work just fine for big heavy choppers, and are more forgiving when heat-treating, and aren't very expensive. I buy my steel from New Jersey Steel Baron. Good folks there. They ship quickly, and have a great selection in lots of sizes.

    If you're really strapped for cash, or have a need to re-purpose, I would suggest very old files or very old mill blades. New files and saw blades sometimes are mostly made of low-carbon steel, with just a tiny bit of good steel welded to the working area, making them unsuitable. In the past, this wasn't the case, as the labor needed to do this cost more than the savings in using less good steel. Now, though, robots can weld it all together in a fraction of a second, so it now makes economic sense.

    I hear leaf springs are decent, but haven't tried them, so I can't personally vouch.

    If you had trown it in oil while hot, would it have set fire to the oil?

    yes it would for a few minutes until it is cooled

    Not nearly that long, at least with canola oil as a quenchant (best low cost quenchant I know of). When I do a medium sized blade like a chef's knife, it might flare up for five or six seconds. When I do my big choppers, it might be ten or fifteen seconds.

    I use canola oil as a quenchant, which works very well for many grades of non-stainless high-carbon steel. It flares up on top for a moment, and then stops. The fire doesn't heat the rest of the oil enough to keep the flame going.

    Some people use old motor-oil, and I don't know how it does. Not something I'd use, as it's a lot smellier, and doesn't work quite as well. My basement just smells like cheap french fries for a while after I quench.