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Big Brass Ones

Big Brass Ones
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Everyone should have a Pair

of Big Brass Dice.

With Father's day coming up, I wanted to do something a little different. Now, dad plays a lot of board games and occasionally I've seen him have to squint a bit to see how the dice wound up.

I used to work in a gaming store (board, not video) and saw a lot of dice styles cross the counter. One of them was the long polygon style from Crystal Caste. I liked the basic idea and its stuck in the back of my mind ever since I first saw them.

Now that I thought of doing something for Dad, the two things, easy to read dice and the "rolling log" style from Crystal Caste clicked and I was off to the races. The fact that I could make up a little box and label it "Big Brass Ones - One Pair" when giving it to him was too good to pass up.

I did a test run with a threaded rod coupling nut (instructable here) and liked the result. Now it was on to the real stuff - Solid Brass 360 Alloy hexagon stock.

Here was where my love of steampunk came in handy. I have been following the adventures of Jake von Slatt at Steampunk Workshop and saw that he has a nice tutorial on etching brass with chemicals that I could get locally, unlike circuit board etching acid. At this point it was time to gather my tools and materials and dive in.

This is a continuation of my dice themed instructables. My dice tower tutorial is available here. This one should be towards the end of the dice theme - I'm running out of new ideas.

NOTE: As part of the Etsy/Instructable contest, I have made a few extra pair and put them up for sale on Etsy. While making your own is part of the fun, perhaps you don't have the time or tools needed. Not to worry! Now you too can have your own Pair of Big Brass Ones.

Check out the listing on Etsy and see if any of these bad boys are still available. Order early and often!

 
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Step 1Tools and Materials

Tools and Materials
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You will want a work area where some spilled not-that-toxic chemicals and water can be cleaned up. Keeping paper towels and some rags around is always a good idea.

TOOLS:

There are a lot of ways to cut brass into smaller bits. A hacksaw, miter box, files and sandpaper to smooth out the edges would work. I happen to have a non-ferrous metal cutting table saw blade from my old battlebot days. (Battlebot Flickr photosets available here and here) Brass is a non-ferrous metal so that would give a nice smooth cut on the ends - no sanding or smoothing needed. A new blade like mine at Amazon.com goes for $75.

Also,

  • Plastic tubs and buckets to mix the chemicals in and do the actual etching. Glass is OK, do NOT use anything metal. I mixed up the chemicals in a cut down 1 liter seltzer bottle, and did the actual etching in a 2lb Imperial Margarine tub.
  • Utility/Xacto knife & good tweezers
  • Any color Spray Primer - I used black so any brass showing through was in high contrast and visable. I used the cheap stuff from the autoparts store - $2.44 a can
  • touch up paint - could use almost anything, I used black acrylic modeling paint
  • 12V DC Power Source with at least 1 Amp output. Could be a car or SLA battery. An old PC power supply converted into a bench supply. I used a variable power supply.
  • 12V automobile lightbulbs - I used type 561 and those worked well. These are used for current limiting in the circuit. Cost $1.96 at the autopart store.
  • 16 AWG (or thicker) wire to run from the power source to the brass bits. Alligator clamps are your friend.
  • SOS pads for scrubbing the paint off the brass.
  • small, 2" wide post-it notes
  • Brasso & toothbrush to clean the brass
  • Acetone

Materials:

The etching process is basically putting two pieces of brass in a bath of copper sulfate dissolved in water and running 12V DC between the two. We need both pieces of brass and the copper sulfate.

Brass Hexagon Bar Stock. At least five inches. Why five inches? So we can make a pair of dice at two inches a piece. I used 3/4" diameter hex bar, 5/8" diameter would work as well. I got mine off Ebay but you can get it online at places like onlinemetals.com or speedymetals.com. Check to see if you have a Metal Supermarket nearby. In the past I found having one within reasonable commute distance to be handy. Unfortunately I no longer live near one. Online with shipping, getting it new costs around $18 per foot.

A Brass strip to act as the cathode in the etching process - I had some spare brass bits laying around and a nice piece of 4" x 10" brass plate, 0.032" thick. Didn't need it that wide or thick, 2" x 10" and 0.025" thick is plenty. Most good hobby stores carry some metals from K&S Engineering. One that would work is K&S Part #239. Plenty of length at 12" and you get 3 pieces! Cost around $11.

Root Kill - this is the household chemical used in the etching process. What we are really looking for is Copper Sulfate - which this is 99% of. I originally wandered around the gardening area of the local home improvement store looking for this stuff and finding nothing in frustration. Later I discovered it's in the plumbing department, not gardening. They had plenty a few isles over from where I had searched endlessly. There are other "kill roots" type projects out there. Look at the ingredients and make sure the stuff you get is blue crystals and Copper Sulfate, not something else. Costs $9.89.

Vinyl Letters - the 1/4" sized ones. Cost $3.79 at Staples. I used these because my attempts at the classic toner thermal transfer method where a complete disaster.

Now that we have enough stuff to be dangerous, it's time to start cutting metal.
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56 comments
1-40 of 56next »
Dec 30, 2008. 6:22 PMchriskarr says:
Good idea for the etching solution, although I usually just use baking soda - that way my parents don't know that I'm plating/etching. My dad thinks that it puts off harmful chemicals, but hasn't read up on it and doesn't realize that it's the sodium chloride solutions that put off chlorine gas. Where can I get the root kill solution? And is there a specific brand? I'm only 15, so it may be conspicuous if I buy this in large quantities, seeing as it may easily be used as an explosive additive or used to make drugs. Most fifteen-year-olds don't have root-killing needs... Also, how much did it cost for the brass plate and the brass barstock? Honestly, my friend, I'm sorry that I'm asking so many questions, but this seems like a cool thing to make and I hope to do it right.
Apr 8, 2012. 9:13 PMsnowluck2345 says:
suspicious
Oct 10, 2008. 7:33 PMscottredd says:
Very nice. Well documented, clear photos with marked up descriptions plus unique idea and perfect execution makes this an awesome Instructable. Who knew one could cut and etch metal like that in with modest home shop equipment? I remember as a kid I would take a crayon to my acrylic D&D dice to fill in the numbers. Then I'd buff it with a paper towel to remove the excess wax. I wonder if that would work to color the etched letters. I bet it would come out over time, especially if the dice are thrown.
Oct 22, 2008. 11:24 PMmage says:
to bad D&D dice are too hard to make out of metal. id try to etch brass 20-sided dice :D
Dec 26, 2011. 7:48 AMspawnos3717 says:
One could use rubber or plastic material around the edges of each number to buffer it from glass or other hard surfaces...perhaps Liquid Tape (like normal electrical tape but in liquid form)?
Oct 23, 2011. 9:28 AMRaisedByRobots says:
my god that's beautiful. root kill for etching brass. wow!!!
Sep 19, 2010. 4:46 PMGarlikguy says:
First thing i said when I read this - "that's cool."
Feb 10, 2010. 12:41 AMGreyGhost2 says:
Could you use Letter stamps to number the dice?  (Words or Numerals)

I made a pair of dice from 50mm (2in) cube mild steel.  I drilled the dots then hammered in brass rod.  I then sanded it flat and smooth.  I then rounded the edges and corners.  I made a second pair from 32mm cube (1 1/4 i think).  Not i must say, to be played with on a glass top table.

Nice instructable, i look forward to trying it.
Dec 30, 2009. 6:53 AMAaronius says:
For the Brass Hex stock, McMaster-Carr [www.mcmaster.com] has a 3 ft piece for $28.92. Their part # 8952k123.
Sep 9, 2009. 7:15 PMknorseth says:
What is the power supply you are using, voltage, etc. What works best?
Aug 9, 2009. 10:57 PMH3xx says:
Epic Win on the name dude! it really caught my eye!
Feb 25, 2009. 10:08 AMpudi.dk says:
I have all on hand except the 1 amp 12V power supply. I have one 500 milliaps but can I then just run it for twice as long.
Oct 12, 2008. 9:17 AMEnigmaMax says:
this... sounds naughty. it reminds me of the broiler boss on conker's bad fur day.
Aug 10, 2008. 7:22 PMpuffyfluff says:
Awesome! I love it. Great idea, too! I need to make some.
Aug 8, 2008. 2:22 PMRedgerr says:
OMG i want one!!!!!!11!!1!! shame you ran out :( i wouda bought like 50 of em :\ lol welp, thanks for the idea anyow :)
Aug 8, 2008. 11:38 AMwellcausedwall says:
on the last step you mention using laquer and other finishes. From my good old metals class a few semesters ago, Turtle wax every now and then works wonders. also a more solid finish is a mixture of Flux paste and alcohol. Soak the piece in the mixture and then pull it out and light it on fire. the alcohol is burned off and the flux is sealed.
Jan 3, 2008. 5:52 PMdarth2o says:
Those look realllllly nice. But too bad I don't have the machinery to make them... :(
May 31, 2008. 5:22 AMthemasterpyro says:
why not just use a file and screwdriver or something? may waste a lil more material by filing it, and the numbers may not be as precise cause you'r just chisiling it off, but it would be nice
Apr 26, 2008. 2:40 PMClayton H. says:
You should make a bunch of these and sell them on amazon for like $25 USD.
Feb 21, 2008. 3:14 PMbad apple says:
To the maker of this: You are GOD!!!! These are teh mosted awesomest thing I have ever seen!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jan 26, 2008. 6:48 PMDr.Paj says:
Just don't throw them too hard on a glass table, it would not be a great father's day present, the broken glass not the dice.
Nov 27, 2007. 8:18 PMu2beal999 says:
What type of primer do you use when making this? If it's an acrylic primer you can use spray oven cleaner, such as Easy Off, to dissolve the acrylic primer and paint. I use oven cleaner all the time when cleaning mold release and unsatisfactory paint jobs off my resin models. Spray thoroughly and let sit in a sink for 10-15 minutes, then scrub with a toothbrush while rinsing under running water. Works like a charm, though occasionally I will need to re-do the application if some bits of paint are being stubborn. From what I understand, oven cleaners should not be used with aluminum because it will pit the metal, but it possibly could work with the bronze. Just an idea. Love the dice though!
Nov 7, 2007. 1:32 PMJohn Smith says:
Can you etch steel plate that way?
Nov 19, 2007. 1:55 PMSteamKit says:
Yeah. I have some examples of steel etched if anybody wants.
Nov 19, 2007. 4:06 PMJohn Smith says:
I'd like to see.
Nov 20, 2007. 8:04 AMSteamKit says:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13821724@N05/ theres a link to my flickr where you can find the images of a book title plate I've made. It's a hunk of steel I shaped square on a grinder then masked by printing the negative on a sheet of glossy ink jet photo paper with a laser printer. Ironed on, then wetted off. Just to note, the pits in the metal are purposeful.
Nov 20, 2007. 12:43 PMJohn Smith says:
Wow! That's cool!
Nov 20, 2007. 6:08 PMSteamKit says:
Thank you!
Nov 20, 2007. 7:50 AMmurkett1 says:
Nice work, haw deep is the final etch?
Jul 21, 2007. 12:08 AMCaptain Pedantic says:
You have my favorite tool! The Veritas pocket square in the last step. So handy that when I thought I lost mine I called Lee Valley and asked why the don't offer it anymore. The guy said that they were selling it as having the same accuracy as a machinist's square but couldn't find a manufacturer who could consistently provide that. Dumb reasoning.
Jul 16, 2007. 1:13 PMxxxafterglow says:
Soooo badass. Awesome and really thorough!
Jul 14, 2007. 4:42 PMJafafa Hots says:
Here's an idea to make the lettering stand out more - glass. Get some glass enameling beads, super cheap... you can;t use an enameling kiln because the glass in the faces you have already done would slump out as you did the new sides... But if you use a torch to melt the beads it might work. Fill each side with a different color, or just with black glass on all sides for a classy look. Or maybe cobalt blue! Nice, shiny smooth glass, flush with the brass, or slightly inset. You would have to re-polish the brass after doing this because of scale from the heating.
Jul 14, 2007. 4:44 PMJafafa Hots says:
Oh and I forgot, you have to use a chemical to treat the insides of the lettering to make the glass adhere, but that's cheap and easy, a bottle should be available and instructions should be available at any enameling resource. Check out Dick Blicks, or enasco.com for supplies.
Jul 14, 2007. 5:01 PMJafafa Hots says:
Should be fairly easy to try... the enameling beads are more like a powder - just fill in the letters and melt, essentially.
Jun 22, 2007. 12:44 AMHurdyGurdyMan says:
Those are pretty awesome but isn't it easier to cut a few squares and use a drill to make small indentions?
Jun 22, 2007. 6:24 PMBlackBlade says:
It is simple but really creative + cool
Jun 21, 2007. 3:51 PMSacTownSue says:
WOW! Every man should have a pair! I want a pair and I'm not even a boy (named Sue). Although, on occasion, I've been told I had some. Obviously, they were confused. Probably flunked science class too. I was thinking one might need to paint them too. I have similar vision problems. I can't afford new eyeglasses Rx every year. I guess the reflection on the different surface types is enough. I know it's early but I think I see a sewing machine in your future.
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Author:whamodyne
Named "Emblematic of the Instructables Universe" by the New York Times, I'm a maker and designer who enjoys looking at things sideways and playing with established form in new ways.