The Bike Lite Glow Using CCFL

The Bike Lite Glow Using CCFL
In this, my first Instructable, I will show you how to use Cold Cathode lighting (Used in computer case mods) to make your bicycle VERY visible. It also adds a "cool" factor IMHO. If you commute to and from work, or ride at night / early morning, or just want the cool factor, this is for you. The tubes can be moved to other locations on your bike as needed or where space permits. Mounting the the unit to your bike is done with high powered magnets. If your bike is an alloy or composite frame, you may need to come up with a different method for mounting the system. Also, your tubes may be slightly different, but the setup is basically the same. Now for the legal stuff:

WARNING - THIS PROJECT USES COMPONENTS IN IT'S CONSTRUCTION THAT UTILIZE HIGH VOLTAGES !! THIS CAN PRESENT A DANGER TO YOU AND AS SUCH YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY AND ALL INJURY RESULTING FROM THE CONSTRUCTION AND OR USE OF THIS PROJECT.

Ok with that outta the way, let's get started.
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up
 

Step 1Here's what you'll need

Here\
Here are the basic supplies you'll need to complete this project:

Thin CA and accelerator
Wire for battery pack 18 Gauge 2-Conductor
Magnets, General No. 341 (Two Packs !!)
Heat shrink sleeve, 4" width
Cold Cathode Tubes (color of your choice)
Female size N jack for battery pack Radio Shack 274-1576
Size N DC Power Plug Radio Shack 274-1573
AA Battery Holder 2 cell Radio Shack 270-382A
AA Battery holder 8 cell Radio Shack 270-0387
Assorted heat shrink sleeve Radio Shack 278-1627B
1/4 inch ID Expandable Sleeving
10 AA 2500Mah NiMH
12VDC Charger (Preferably smart charger listed)

If you purchase the smart charger shown, also add to the Radio Shack list, part # 23-445. This is what you will need to make the charger adapter for this battery pack. (See Photo below)

You'll also need some basic tools such as a pencil type soldering iron (Not the big Weller gun your dad has), rosin core or no clean solder, wire strippers / cutters, x-acto knife, Small screwdrivers, Hand Drills, helping hands or third hand (optional), Heat Gun (no your hair dryer will not work), patience, Common Sense and the will to proceed...

« Previous StepDownload PDFView All StepsNext Step »
51 comments
1-40 of 51next »
Nov 18, 2011. 8:33 AMpbergeronronronron says:
why would you use fragile and dangerous ccfl tubes when you can get led strips for 10 bucks and use a 9v battery
Jun 17, 2010. 5:12 PMWRIF101rocks says:
As far as keeping the tubes on a bike with an alloy frame, you could use some zip ties on either end of the tube. It wouldn't be as portable as magnets but just an idea. Great instructable by the way!
Mar 16, 2009. 6:59 PMzleebme says:
How much roughly did this cost? and are you really trusting magnets to hold them on to the frame i would zip tie also but im a belt and suspenders kinda guy
Jan 12, 2009. 12:10 PMjokerlz says:
This is a great instructable. Heres mine (unfortunately one of the tubes is uv, which was fun for looking at banknotes with but useless for lighting). Its also got velcro straps and stickyback velcro on frame and tubes so that the whole lot can be quickly removed so it doesnt get knicked/rained on/ you can then use them for something else.
100_3752.JPG100_3750.JPG
Nov 29, 2008. 6:26 AMNumpad says:
I recently done this to my bike, but i used an old cordless drill batter that i took apart and i fitted everything into the bikes water bottle (partly for water proofing, but also so it wont get pinched when my bike is locked up) lol
Dec 1, 2008. 2:27 AMNumpad says:
hi yes, the battery i used was an old drill battery which i took apart and inside was a series of 8 large 1.2v batteries, they perfectly fitted into my bikes existing water bottle. all i needed was a small hole for the wires :)
Nov 15, 2008. 9:40 PMprofessorred says:
for non magnetic frames you could always use zap straps, adhesive, or the modder's secret weapon, duct tape
Nov 14, 2008. 7:35 PMkewrw28 says:
Thank You This is a great Instructable and I can see a lot of hard work went into this. You truly know how to lay out and execute a fine project. Thanks Again.
kewrw28
Nov 20, 2008. 8:36 PMKoil_1 says:
If you don't have a Dremel I would highly recommend getting one. For this kind of project they are invaluable. Not only is it easier to shape and drill plastic, it's also very easy to notch PC board. They are wonderful tools to have and the lower models can be purchased for under $30.00. I have personally burned through 7 Dremels through my hobby rich life. I use them until the barrings die. I don't have a hydrolic press so it's kind of hard for me to change those. Something that lasts 4 years and is usefull for just about everything is well worth it. Trust me, you get one of them and you'll be impressed enough that you'll look for other things to use it for just to use it. They're addictive...
Nov 14, 2008. 6:33 PMHeWantsRevenge says:
i take it u cant bike in the rain with this otherwise awesome instructable?
Nov 14, 2008. 9:30 AMskrubol says:
NiMH batteries don't indicate full charge with their voltage curve, so a thermistor is required to get a full charge (commercial NiMH batteries almost always have at least a third contact/wire because of this.) Without a thermistor, the charger either may overcharge the batteries (shortening their life, possibly destroying them,) or charge very conservatively, and not consistently fully charge them.
Nov 17, 2008. 6:33 AMskrubol says:
You found my source :P I have seen others that have similar recommendations. The reason for no third wire in cells is that the shells conduct heat pretty well, so the chargers can put the temperature sensing on the contacts. It's battery packs that generally have a third lead. Personally, I'd just risk it, now that you're as far in as you are. A good delta-V charger should be able to get pretty near full charge under most circumstances without overcharging. I'd try to not recharge a pack that's got more than 50% charge left in it though. The worst that will happen is you'll slowly kill the battery pack. Depending on how often you use it, that may take quite a while. If it does, just build a new pack for a thermal cutoff charger.
Nov 14, 2008. 3:23 PMwingbatwu says:
If you want a longer lasting battery solution, use LED tubes (aka meteor lights on computer case mod supplies websites), or even those new flexible LED strips that are weatherproofed
Nov 14, 2008. 2:24 AMcallmeshane says:
To whine - a little. Here is Straya - we have mostly useful and good road rules about lighting... All Sensible - All Standardised and All well thought out. WHITE only lamps and reflectors on the front, yellow lamps and reflectors on the sides of long vehicles and red lamps and reflectors at the back and this is for ALL vehicles. The only PLUS bicycles get is that they are permitted flashing rear and front lights. If you stick on BLUE - GREEN and or any other fab color... the cops pull you over and fine you. Unroadworthy - $120 on the spot fine - blah blah blah....... Still if WHITE means the front and RED means the back, at least it's all congruent. Sigh.
Nov 14, 2008. 3:19 PMwingbatwu says:
I've been pulled over while riding with green neons on my bike, because the cops wanted to know how to put neon lighting on their kids bikes. So your mileage may vary...
Nov 11, 2008. 3:51 PMdark sponge says:
You should use a small 12v lead acid battery instead of a ton of AAs. It would last longer and hold more power for its size.
Nov 11, 2008. 8:19 PMomnibot says:
Nah, a lead acid battery would be much heavier than some NiMh's which is important since it's pedal-powered.
Nov 13, 2008. 2:29 PMjeremiahbarrar says:
How about a Li-ion battery? It would last longer, and be smaller and lighter.
Nov 12, 2008. 5:52 PMdark sponge says:
No, a small lead acid battery. It would carry more power for its size and would already be 12 volts. You wouldnt have to wory about putting a ton of little batteries in series. And one again, I said small.
Nov 13, 2008. 5:06 PMdark sponge says:
4Ah may not seem like alot, but it would almost be double the life of your current setup. It would aso be a little less complicated and easier to recharge than 10 NiMH batteries in series. It would also be cool if you could add a battery level indicator made from a micro and a small led bar graph.
Nov 11, 2008. 4:00 PM1up says:
But then it couldn't be in the contest. ;)
Nov 11, 2008. 5:29 PMdark sponge says:
I know. I was just making a suggestion for anyone who wanted to do this project. ;-)
Nov 13, 2008. 3:44 PMfossilfool says:
I like the magnetic attachment. Nice innovation. One thing to keep in mind is that the wires leading to and from the light tubes need to be properly strain relieved. You apply heat shrink after the wire leaves the tube, making it flex more right at the point where the wires leave the tube. On theDown Low Glow we use extra heat shrink that passes through a chrome cap into the light tube, stiffening this point.
Nov 12, 2008. 10:32 AMQuackMasterDan says:
I completed a Green CCFL mod on my mountain bike about 3 months ago. You don't need to attach an extra AA holder. Each AA battery carries 1.5 volts. Wired in series (which the 8-AA holder does) creates 12 volts (1.5 * 8). Your extra two batteries are creating 14v, which still lights up the cold cathodes as the inverter can use anywhere from 12-20v. Just noting that it is an unnecessary step.

Also, as an aesthetic touch, use a 12 inch cold cathode for the central frame, and a 4" cold cathode on your rear suspension.
Nov 12, 2008. 9:56 PMQuackMasterDan says:
Figured I would show you a picture of my bike so you can see the effect. I've also create my own front light of my own design (10 320,000mcd White 40 degree LEDs).
IMG_1886.JPG
1-40 of 51next »

Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

All Steps Viewing
View all steps of an Instructable on the same page when you're a Pro Member.

Upgrade to Pro today!
5
Followers
1
Author:digitaltripper