Approximate overall material cost for this project:
$45 (if you were to buy new high quality hardwood)
$10 (if you were to use reclaimed wood you had laying around)
• Approximately 3 square feet of 3/4 inch thick wood stock
• Two 3/8th x 3in bolts with associated washers
• Wood Glue
• High gloss clear coat (optional)
• Wax paper (optional)
• Two small hinges and associated hardware (optional)
• Wood stain (optional)
• Table saw (hand saw with a steady hand will also work)
• Router (optional)
• Hand Drill
• Palm Sander (sand paper)
• Adjustable Clamps
• Wrench and 9/16th socket
Step 1: Cut Material to Size
With your design in hand you can begin cutting the pieces which will make the body of your mount. I used an old closet shelf.
Step 2: Two Tone Side Walls
I chose to make my walls from a light colored birch plywood. This was both for the effect, and that I had pieces of this laying around from another project. Since the ply I had was only 1/4in I had to laminate 3 pieces together to get the 3/4in thickness I desired.
Step 3: Create the Cutout for Your Top Tube
Step 4: Assemble the Body
Before joining each piece be sure to properly prepare each joint by lightly sanding and cleaning with a damp towel.
Step 5: Reinforce Your Structure
All this means is that the areas on the model with colors represented higher on the key are experiencing a greater force per unit of area than the areas with colors represented lower on the key.
Taking this information and analyzing the stress contour diagram we can see that the stresses are being concentrated in two locations on the mount. The first is the lower radii of the cutouts where the top tube is being held. The other is the top portion of the joints where the side walls meet the back board. The first location is not concerning since it would require the side walls to fracture mid body in order for it to fail. The second location is much more concerning as this is a joint between the board fixed to the wall and the rest of the mount. To address this I decided to add corner braces to reinforce the top section of this joint.
The last issue to consider is the deflection the mount will see. Another way to think of this is how the mount will bend under the load. The stress contour diagram is also manipulating the model to give you a sense of what this will look like. With this in consideration you can clearly see how the back board is bowing about its center fixed holes. This deflection is exaggerated in the model so that it may be seen more easily. In order to address this issue I added a layer of 1/4in ply to the inner wall of the back board to increase the rigidity. Plywood is helpful for this because of its multidirectional grain structure (this piece was added before adding the corner braces).
Step 6: Design Improvements
These hinges are readily available at most home improvement stores. The aluminum block I machined on a vertical mill. If you don't have access/know how to use a mill there are many other objects you could use as a lift tab; some quarters, or an old wine bottle cork for example, have fun with it!
Step 7: Drill Mounting Holes
Step 8: Sand and Mask
If you purchased dark wood and are not using reclaimed wood you can skip this step.
Step 9: Staining
Step 10: Clear Coat
Step 11: Reasemble
Step 12: Pre Mounting Preparation
Once you have your location and height figured out have your friend hold the mount against the wall at this location with a level placed on top. While they are holding the mount open the lid and mark the wall through your mounting holes. Now your friend can rest while you pilot drill your holes. I highly recommend pilot drilling as the bolts are quite large. Once you've finished pilot drilling use your wrench to drive the bolts into the stud. Do this before you have the mount in place as it will take a fair amount of work to drive the bolts in for the first time.
Cut a piece of wax paper to match the size of your back board. This is not a requirement, but at good idea since the board will be pressed against the wall for an unknown period of time. Without this barrier the clear coat may fuse to the paint over its life span making it difficult to remove without damaging the drywall.