Bike Hacking 101 - How To Perform a Bicycle Autopsy

Taking a Bicycle Apart

Building custom bicycles is a great hobby that can be learned by anyone with a desire to create. The skills needed to dismantle, alter and repair bicycle components can be easily learned, and the parts and tools you will need are quite inexpensive. Discarded or worn out bicycles offer many good parts and can often be found at local scrap yards, city dumps, or yard sales for a few dollars.

Even if you plan to build a custom creation using all new parts, this hobby will seem inexpensive compared to many, as you can purchase a brand new bicycle with decent components at a store for less than a hundred dollars.

The great thing about hacking and welding bicycles is that you will be working with all steel components, which are much stronger, more common, and much less expensive than high grade aluminum or carbon fiber bicycle parts. If you have never torn a bicycle apart before, then this basic introduction will show you all you need in order to complete a total bicycle autopsy in minutes, stripping an entire cycle down to the individual parts using only a few basic hand tools.

There will be some very useful tips and tricks presented that may save you a lot of frustration, especially if you are just starting out, so read through this entire section before embarking on any of the upcoming projects at www.atomiczombie.com and www.chopzone.com .

Step 1: Start with a typical all-steel suspension mountain bicycle

Figure 1 shows the most commonly available and inexpensive mountain bike available today, the all-steel frame suspension mountain bike from the local hardware store. This cycle cost me $120, and was used to make the StreetFox tadpole trike. The components are medium quality, and include aluminum rims, cantilever brakes, and suspension on both the front forks and rear triangle. Because the frame is made of steel, it can be easily cut and welded using any welder.

Often a bicycle like this can be found at a yard sale for a few dollars, although there may be a bit of rust on the frame, worn out tires, and the odd seized brake cable – nothing that we can’t easily fix or replace. OK, now grab your toolbox, and let’s tear this bicycle down to the individual parts.

Comments

[Furball_Fidelis]

you should add a step for threadless headsets....much easier to take apart then a threaded one...and they're becoming more common on newer Wal-Mart bikes. (though they've been standard since the early 90s on high end MTBs)

First glance I thought that was a threadless in your pics, but turned out it was a faux one.

[Max_Radius]

It would be far better and actually much simpler to purchase a crank arm puller tool from a local bike shop, or have them remove the crank arms.
Hammering on the cranks in this manner is only possible with steel crank arms and you will damage them. If the crank arms are aluminum you will destroy them and possibly the bottom bracket bearings.

[Furball_Fidelis]

Indeed, saves so much headache and frustration....and it works on all bikes. From my high end MTB to my fixie to all the cheap Wal-mart bikes I've worked on.... definitely worth investing in one...paid $15 for mine at my LBS. takes about 10-20 seconds to remove a crank arm with the tool....no blowtorch or hammer needed.

[mhippo]

Seat tubes actually don't all have the same diameter. There are several different standards, and the seat post is labeled to allow proper matching.

[mmaciver]

"several different standards"? Isn't that a lack of "standard"?

[mhippo]

Not exactly. The difference is that in a multiple standard system there is a way to buy a compatible part, while in a system with no standard you may need it to be customized.

[SIRJAMES09]

a pip wrench?? LOL

[BottomlessPizzaPit]

I've seen people take fine tipped air tools and stick them between the grips and the bars then let the air blow through the gap, releasing them without the need for soap and grease. If done right, it'll save you plenty of time.

[sharlston]

For removing handlebar grips just stick a small screwdriver underneath them and slip a wd40 can wih the straw down there and spray,wait five minutes and it should slide straight off,for installing grips spray hairsspray inside the grip,this will help the grip to slide on but also to hold it into place when the hairspraqy dries

[mhippo]

Another step that can be taken before using the *ugly method* is spraying a bit of chain lube under the edge, then twisting. However, you then need to wash both the inside of the grip and the handlebars with soapy water. You could also, if you have a syringe (they often come with kits for refilling ink cartridges) put soapy water under the grip. This has the advantage that once it dries it's no longer slippery.