Step 20: The fork bearings

The fork bearings will fall out of the head tube cups once the forks have been removed. As shown in Figure 20, the bearings have two sides, a ball side and a ring side. Always place the bearing in the cups balls first, or they will not work properly. A stiff fork that does not spin freely is a clear sign of an improperly installed or wrong size bearing in the head tube cups. Yes, there are several sizes of bearing and cups, so keep the same parts together.

<p>the trouble is my bike was custom and then i got it used. i might be able to find one, but the size is atypical so far. thanks for the advice, next time i change something i'll look into it. </p>
Seat tubes actually don't all have the same diameter. There are several different standards, and the seat post is labeled to allow proper matching.
&quot;several different standards&quot;? Isn't that a lack of &quot;standard&quot;?
Not exactly. The difference is that in a multiple standard system there is a way to buy a compatible part, while in a system with no standard you may need it to be customized.
<p>i have had lots of trouble wiith seat tubes, the tube on my bike has too large of a tube to just plug and play with the old bikes i had, but too skinny for the new ones, and so i have to dissassemble the seat section and put the new seat on the old tube. it's irritating, but... such is life.</p>
<p>There should be a marking on the seat post (around the minimum insertion point) which says what its diameter is. Also, any bike store should be able to find a post to fit a bike which is missing it.</p>
you should add a step for threadless headsets....much easier to take apart then a threaded one...and they're becoming more common on newer Wal-Mart bikes. (though they've been standard since the early 90s on high end MTBs) <br> <br>First glance I thought that was a threadless in your pics, but turned out it was a faux one. <br>
It would be far better and actually much simpler to purchase a crank arm puller tool from a local bike shop, or have them remove the crank arms. <br>Hammering on the cranks in this manner is only possible with steel crank arms and you will damage them. If the crank arms are aluminum you will destroy them and possibly the bottom bracket bearings.
Indeed, saves so much headache and frustration....and it works on all bikes. From my high end MTB to my fixie to all the cheap Wal-mart bikes I've worked on.... definitely worth investing in one...paid $15 for mine at my LBS. takes about 10-20 seconds to remove a crank arm with the tool....no blowtorch or hammer needed.
This is the exact thing that I need to tighten my <a href="http://www.heico-lock.us" rel="nofollow">wedge lock washers</a>. I have been looking for something like this for a really long time, Where did you get this? Thank you so much!
a pip wrench?? LOL
I've seen people take fine tipped air tools and stick them between the grips and the bars then let the air blow through the gap, releasing them without the need for soap and grease. If done right, it'll save you plenty of time.
For removing handlebar grips just stick a small screwdriver underneath them and slip a wd40 can wih the straw down there and spray,wait five minutes and it should slide straight off,for installing grips spray hairsspray inside the grip,this will help the grip to slide on but also to hold it into place when the hairspraqy dries
Another step that can be taken before using the *ugly method* is spraying a bit of chain lube under the edge, then twisting. However, you then need to wash both the inside of the grip and the handlebars with soapy water. You could also, if you have a syringe (they often come with kits for refilling ink cartridges) put soapy water under the grip. This has the advantage that once it dries it's no longer slippery.

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