To find a use for the large amount of sawdust produced from wood turning sawing firewood etc, the 2 choices had was to dunp / compost it or burn it.
loose sawdust can be burned in a wood burner but can easily kill the fire and cause a lot of smoke. decide to try and compress it back into bricks that would burn better.
I researched the options of either dry compacting and the forces need where just to beyond my capabilities.
My only other option is to compress a wet mixture and use a binder such as news pulp.
I researched on youtube and instructables to see what the other people where using.
I found all the info needed but found some of the method where a bit fiddly for me as i have a few old hand injury's that make fiddly not an option. other option made small briquettes or the process was just to slow for the amount of sawdust i had lying around about 12 fertilizer bags full to be exact.
Ive done nothing new here, just added my 2 cents worth to the mix and try to improve what others have done before to inspire my own effort. Enjoy. :-)
Thanks for looking and I hope you like my idea
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: The plan.
I decided to build a mould that would be easy to fill and compress but would would produce a larger brick than that I had seen, and have a press that would be faster to operate.
I was lucky that I had the chance to buy a Sealy No2 bench press a few months back and had yet to fin a job for it. I decided that I could modify the pressto use for this job and more usefull for other jobs.
I decided to use only what I had at hand. this would be a no budget build.
Materials used:
3/4" plywood (I do like the 3/4" plywood)
6" sewer pipe.











































Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »




I saw your post regarding the conversion of sawdust to solid blocks.
I would just like to ask how much is the difference of the compressed saw dust to
solid blocks of wood in term of Density and heat output.
I am planning to use this as firewood in my Boiler, do you think it would be advisable?
Thanks!
-Justin Sy
There is a Who its made that shows how the compressed
Solid wood burns well on its own i tend to keep this briquets for use in the open fire in my house as it only takes a few minutes to get a fire going.
I burn scrap wood in the wood stove in my shed but it has no boiler.
I would suggest that you contact the boiler manufacturer as some woods like pine can cause a build up of resin in the flue that can build up and block the flue, my first flue made was 3" (also poorly made) and blocked up with resin, I have i replace with 5" now which draws much better and has less chance of getting blocked.
Sorry for the extremely delayed response.
I have been busy with an upcoming conference and was not able to attend to your reply.
Thanks for the detailed response. There is actually no problem regarding the blockage of the flue as I am already using actual firewood of the same wood specie to run my boiler.
I am just trying to find some use for the sawdust (same wood specie) produced in our sawmill.
Just in terms of density, can you still remember if the wet compresses briquettes were comparable or even close to actual firewood?
Thank you and sorry for the trouble.
-Justin
I did this as a way to get sawdust to burn without dampening the fire out as it usually does if thrown on loose. I never put any thought into the fuel value of the end product,
I'm happy that they burn but the general view is that they have the same fuel value as coal, but i cant vouch for this as i would not know how you would go about a comparison test.
A friend of mine uses the commercial compressed bricks and they seem to burn pound for pound at the same rate a scrap timber that i have given him
Depends on how you define comparable, the answer is that they burn well in mu opinion 4-6 of them placed in an open fireplace (all i have used them for) either started with a fire lighter or a spray of wd40 or other oil or anything flammable if im lazy or want heat now, they light quite quickly and look as if they are going to burn out very quickly.
They actually turn to red hot coals and sit in the hearth glowing red for quite some time, once the fire is light 2-3 are added every 30 mins or so as needed, i find that about 10-12 will burn for an evening, i have only used them for when we have visitors and want a bit of fire going just for sake of it.
If you have a commercial sawmill you should look into building a sawdust compressor, a couple of places in my area that ued to give sawdust to any farmers that would come take it away have now built or installed brick compressors to make a salable product out of their waste, they sell well and are a good earner if you have a constant supply.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZQK1vlhA2Y
this seems to be a piton based thing, a hopper with auger that feeds small amounts of dust into a chamber with a piston that reciprocates and compresses the dust into a tube, the tube seems to need to be about 20feet long or so < i think this is so the back pressure can build up to the amount needed to compress the bricks. heavy flywheels are needed to keep the momentum up on the piston. this method seems to be the simplest method for the diy builder, if i had a constant supply of sawdust i would build something like this.
I saw an episode of how its made that showed the compressed brick method for those fancy logs that city folk burn in their trendy wood stoves. The dusts need to be very uniform and to use anything rather than saw dust Ie bark wood shavings and cuttings required a heavy duty shredder to grind the dust uniform.
You can also have a hydraulic machine check youtube for these as i cant seem to find what i found there. the hydraulic method is more complicated and slower.
In summary for small amounts ie 20kg or so of dust every once in a while i would go with the wet brick method. for a constant supply from a saw mill i would put the effort in and build a piston based machine as it would give you a additional income from the waste and in theory should pay for its self in next to no time.
over here a 10kg bag of compressed logs are around £5 and seem to be sold in every garage or convenience store i walk into,
hope this helps.
Andy.
I burned a few dozen over the Christmas holidays and they burn very well, they light quickly and burn like charcoal.
I recon that they would be perfect for use on a BBQ and i hope to try this out sometime.
From what I have see on youtube etc they are OK to use on a BBQ as is
I have not burned any yet in my stove as its to warm to need to light it.
I have burned one to see what it was like and it looked similar to that of a BBQ coal.
A few years ago a friend was selling mushroom and truffle kits in his shop, they all used boiled rice as the food source and demanded almost sterile conditions.
From what I know re mushroom houses and how they work there is a web like nerve system that is about 2 - 3" under the surface of mushroom compost, it almost like like a buried spider web that is the thing that acutely gets the mushrooms to grow. To farm mushrooms you have to emulate and maintain perfect growing condition all the time.
Some mushrooms and truffles have a symbiotic relationship with certain genus of trees. Can't remember what show this was on , probably BBC's life on earth with David Attenbourough.
Being neither plant nor animal mushrooms are literally mindblowing if you start to investigate how they work.
The bottle jack will be prefect for your cider press because you want more pressure to get as much juice out as possible.
I would like to see you cider press design as I have a small orchard that produces more than we can eat or give away and i have often thought of making juice or cider.
Andy.
Check out Mattias Wendle's experience in this matter
http://www.sentex.net/~mwandel/press/apple_grinder.html
His apple Grinder is the bee's knees!
From what I have see on youtube etc they are OK to use on a BBQ as is
I have not burned any yet in my stove as its to warm to need to light it.
I have burned one to see what it was like and it looked similar to that of a BBQ coal.
Except my wife woke up startled and gave me a hard time when I read this from step 3:
" this had lead to the ass falling out of the mould and causing a right mess and some strong language."
Thank you, unknown poet.
Pressing the pulp forms a solid brick that can be handled with out fall to bits if the mix is right. they are still quite wet at this stage, depending on the weather and your climate it can take between 3 days to maybe 2 weeks for them to dry, I air dry mine for a few days until they firm up a bit and then move them to a shed with a good air flow going though it until they are bone dry and hard.
I have only ever done 3 trugs at a time that would make on average 45 bricks, that is the my limit before my bones start to creak and I am best to stop.
If you had an electric cement mixer to prepare the pulp you could make hundreds in a day, I can fill and press 3 trugs full in under an hour, about 1 brick every 30-40 seconds if I am set up right.
You should make compressed bricks and burn them to heat your home and then use the wood ash to level out your property. you get the most out of your waste that way, wood ash is also a good fertilizer.
Good luck