Step 1: Go get stuff
- 12" x 16" sheet of solid white 1/8" acrylic
- An awesome 75W Epilog laser cutter
- A heat gun
- Scrap plywood
- Aluminum or heat resistant table
- Heat resistant work gloves
- Acrylic paint set
- Fine tip paint brush set
- White printer paper for mixing paint
- An exacto knife
- TL072 op amp
- 5 10K slide pots
- 1 10K log pot
- 8 10K resistors
- 3 100 ohm resistors
- 5 1uF capacitors
- 3 10uF capacitors
- 7 1/4" mono jacks
- 1 1/8" mono jack
- A dual power supply (futurlec part#minipowerdual5v)
- 5 slider knobs
- 1 turn pot knob
- A soldering setup
- Solid hookup wire
- Misc hardware (nuts and bolts)
- Screwdrivers, pliers, etc...
(If you don't have a laser cutter, you can have the files printed by a service such as Ponoko)
Step 2: Laser cut the main panel
First, turn off all the cut outlines etch the image off the protective covering/surface plastic by doing a raster cut with the following settings:
Next, turn off the decorative image and all the cut lines. Use the following settings to make a vector cut:
Also cut out the spacers file with the same vector setting. You will use them later. You might want to cut this out twice as they are small and sometimes get lost.
Step 3: Paint the outline
So paint it, wait for it to dry and then peel off the cover. You may need to pick off the fine bits with your exacto knife.
Step 4: Color by number
if You mess up and get a little on the lines, you can scrape it off with an exacto knife or wipe it off with a damp sponge. You can also use the exacto knife to carefully touch up the black lines. Simple dip the point of the blade in black paint and touch the spot you want to fix.
You can use a test piece of acrylic to judge what the paint will look like before you commit to putting it on the real thing.
Step 5: Bend
Lay your acrylic flat on your aluminum or heat resistant tabletop. Measure so that your acrylic is sticking 2 1/4" over the edge of the table and the two holes for the potentiometer and headphone jack are near you. Place a sheet of the paper over your painting (as to protect it), but make sure it will be out of the way of the heat gun (you will be heating the joint where the acrylic meets the edge of the table). Place the plywood over top of the acrylic and clamp it in place. Heat the acrylic along the join where it is clamped and once you see it start to droop a little, try bending it forward. If it is pliable, bend it to roughly 80 degrees and hold it in place until it starts to hold its own shape.
Next measure 5 1/8" and repeat the process. This time bend the acrylic a full 90 degrees.
Repeat it once more measuring only an inch and bend it away from you another 90 degrees.
Step 6: Hardware
Also install the 1/8" jack, main volume potentiometer and the volume knob on the front of the case.
Do not yet install the seven 1/4" jacks that go into the back.
Step 7: Cut more acrylic
This bracket will have your circuit built into it and also support the circuit board for the power supply.
You need to make one raster cut of the solid black field in the file) and so you should turn off all the outlines of all the other fields when you do this.
I made 5 passes with the following settings:
I then turned off the fill for the black square and turned the outline on for everything else (not including the black square). I think made one vector pass with the following settings:
Step 8: Build the circuit
Build the circuit pictured below onto your mounting bracket.
Don't yet wire the audio jacks or any of the potentiometers. Add extra wires as necessary (such as for ground and audio in) keeping in mind that they will have to attach to components later.
Step 9: Prepare and mount the bracket
Place the bracket onto the tabs for the slide pots and bend the solder lugs slightly so that the mounting bracket is held firmly in place.
Step 10: Wire up the rest
I found it was easier to add wires to the audio jacks in the back of the case first and then install them (as opposed to the other way around).