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I acquired a Black & Decker Air Station (ASI300) from a garage sale.  When it was plugged in at the sale for testing, it ran for 2 seconds on AC power and stopped, seeing no fuse worried me but I tested it with the DC from my car because it is dual voltage. Upon getting home I open it up to find a fuse that is soldered to the circuit board, and MANY reviews stating the problem of the fuse blowing and needing to be returned to black and decker for service at YOUR expense for shipping... to have to happen again. also retail is $50

The solution, install a user replaceable fuse.

Radio Shack Parts:
270-0367 Panel-Mount Fuse-Holder $2.99
270-1021 Slow-Blow 1-amp fuses $2.99

18" of  stranded wire, I used 12GA but 18ga would probably be acceptable

Tools:
Drill/ Dremel tool
Bits
Soldering Iron + Solder
#2 Phillips screwdriver

Step 1: Open the Unit

Using Phillips screwdriver remove the 6 screws on the bottom of the unit.
Remove the bottom piece of plastic.
Then remove the 4 screws on the side of the unit.
Remove the side, be careful not to loose the metal bar that holds the storage lid together.

Step 2: Locate Fuse, Labeled F1


Locate the fuse that is labeled F1,
Cut the wire into one 10" piece and one 8"piece.
Strip  about 1/4" of wire form each end.

Solder one wire to each end of the fuse. which is in the blue box

It is ok if some solder or wire touches the diode in the brown box as they are connected by the PCB underneath, I found out the hard way after undoing my connection to check.


Step 3: Drill Hole for Fuse Holder

About 1/2" from the  switch on the opposite side of the power connector, drill a 9/16" whole for the fuse holder. Make sure to secure the plastic piece as once the bit goes through it will spin.

I only had a 1/2" drill bit, and had to use a 1/8" drill bit as makeshift dremel.

SAVE YOURSELF TIME don't do what I did and Wire the circuit up all nice and working to realize you need to mount the panel fuse holder FIRST. To make the compresion ring fit flush, you will need to take a pair of needle nose pliers and break off the ridges on the inside of the unit around the area where the hole is. then tighten down the holder.

Step 4: Solder Wires to Fuse Holder

To make things easier and to keep the bottom lead from moving around, insert a fuse into the holder, and screw down.

Solder the shorter wire to the terminal on the top of the fuse holder.
Solder the longer wire to the terminal on the bottom of the fuse holder.

You will notice the heat shrink on the bottom wire, that is from me needing to splice the wire back together after having to cut it to install the fuse holder through the plastic face plate.

Step 5: Reassemble the Unit


Route the new wires between the PCB and black face plate.
Re-reattach the side panel, but don't tighten the screws until you carefully test that the AC power will work, (under the assumption that it previously didn't have a working fuse and your new fuse is now correctly installed )

Now attach, the bottom plate. and enjoy the fact that next time the fuse blows you only need to unscrew the top of the holder and replace the fuse, not disassemble the whole unit.

Thoughts:
The dual power air station is a great idea, however, they should have included a user replaceable fuse from the start.  You may be able to use regular 1A fuses, but I just didn't want to waste the money if part of the cause was a surge current from the motor starting. hence slow-blow fuses being used.

Also, this was my first attempt at an instructable, any feedback would be appreciated. I know I probably should have had more photos but my phone isn't the greatest and the inside of the unit is relatively simple to understand.
<p>Thank you for the tip I have two to fix, I'm glad i learned how to solder 40+ years ago.</p><p>From a children author in Concord.Ca</p>
<p>Thank you for the detailed instructions. I was able to fix mine good as new! Had it not been for my terrible soldering skills the job would have been completed in 15 mins. </p>
Good job, I would have liked to see a pic of the finished wiring at the other end as well. Good save though as you know it would have ended in the landfill!
My camera sucks, actually the picture of the circuit does have the finished wiring alreay, and it is sort of a mess of wires coming off the board because the unit is sort of cool with the fact that the AC and DC each have a dedicated circuit on the board going to individual pumps. If I can borrow a decent camera that shows some detail, I definitely will get a clearer picture.<br><br>Part of this was because it was my first instructable and I decided to make it mid project I missed some pictures for steps, but I guess that is part of the learning experience. Also, haha the DC side still worked but, yeah I can see plenty of people not happy with a car powered air pump and tossing them, who knows I might be able to get a whole $20 now, or a check from Black and Decker for being awesome and fixing their horrible design.
<p>mine keeps blowing the fuse as soon as I flick the switch over to on. I can't seem to figure out why. I put a 1A and 2A and still the same issue. I plan on just wiring the 120V straight to the motor with a fuse inline bypassing the entire circuit board. </p>
<p>If you have an Ohm meter you might want to check for a short between the hot and neutral wires in the circuit. Especially post mod you might have accidentally bridged the connection, or you might have a truly defective unit.</p><p>Also I see you commented to Nepaowl who just jumped out the fuse which works but doesn't offer the circuit protection or safety of a fuse.</p>
<p>I did it! This DYI is still going strong in late 2014....and using similar parts up here in Canada. No Radio Shack here, but got different branded fuse holder and 1A fuse at The Source. I wouldn't fuss with &quot;making it neater&quot; ....just follow OP's instructions no matter how crude it looks. It all gets covered anyway! Thanks again, OP.</p>
<p>I made it real simple I soldered a wire from one end of the fuse to the other end. It works like a charm. </p>
<p>I wonder if this will work for a long time because if there is a short it may fry everything. </p>
<p>Just wanted to say thanks for the upgrade instructional. I am a huge Black &amp; Decker fan and own about everything they make. I was disappointed that my air station stopped working after only a few times of using it. I figured it was a fuse but after not being able to locate it I was ready to scrap this. I purchased a solder gun, 50x 1A quick blow fuses, and a panel mount fuse holder all for $6 bucks on eBay. The upgrade was simple and only took me about 20 minutes. Also to anyone else looking to do this, soldering is your best bet but it can be done without it. Plus the quick blow fuses and 18awg wire are working just fine for me.</p>
I would highly advise against not using soldering to secure the wiring because I didn't really see anywhere to do a crimp connection. Due to the fact a floating 120V coming lose causing arcing or shorting out could result in a fire, it is best to make the connections are secure. I'm glad people are still finding this guide useful, I can't image why the engineers at black and decker never had the thought because I'm sure they have figured out plenty were coming in on warranty.
I followed the instructions and installed the fuse in Jan 2012. The unit has been functioning without a problem ever since. I have since used the compressor on car and bicycle tires as well as sports balls. No problems since the upgrade. I almost placed the fuse too close to the on/off switch. Otherwise everything went smoothly. I just soldered the wires on each side of the blown fuse, leaving it intact. I wanted to thank the author, the instructions were clear and the fix was pretty simple. By the way the external 1 amp fuse has not blown since the upgrade.
Joined just to say &quot;Thanks!&quot; It worked like a charm even with my crappy soldering skills.
Just finished installing your mod to my Black and Decker air unit. It worked perfect. What can I add, follow your easy instructions and it works. Parts at radio shack are still <br>available and still reasonable. I think I fixed my unit in about two hours and it cost about <br>$6-7. Was about to throw the darn thing out when I checked on the internet and found your repair. Thanks so much!!
I, too, signed up just so I could thank you for posting this fix. Thanks to you I now have a functioning compressor instead of a worthless piece of s**t!. Your instructions were clear and the pics were welcome. Thanks also to the others who posted additional pictures.
I'm done. What a great and simple mod. Once again, papenpj, many thanks. I use this air pump to charge a garden sprayer (fitted with a tire valve) when I strip wallpaper (I install wallcoverings for a business). You've saved my bacon. <br>I've included some pix. The first one is of the PCB and is a little clearer than your phone pix. The green arrow shows the offending fuse. The blue arrow shows where the AC wire from the switch is soldered to the PCB. <br> <br>The second pix is the reverse side of the PCB. The blown fuse is already removed (green arrows) and the blue arrow shows the solder point for the wire from the switch - which I unsoldered and connected to the end of the fuse holder. The other terminal on the fuse holder was connected with an 18 Ga wire to the &quot;bottom&quot; fuse contact (as shown in this pix) <br> <br>The last pix shows the final mod. Purple dotted wire from switch to end of fuse holder. Green dotted wire from fuse contact point to sider of fuse holder. The electrical connection terminated by the blown fuse is now complete and protected.
Hey, I just wanted to thank you for the great instructions. I just completed making the modifications to my Black and Decker Air Inflation Station that has been non-functional for a few months. Frankly, modifying it per your instructable was easier than dealing with returning it to to Black and Decker. One trip to Radio Shack and about an hour with a soldering iron and some spare wire I have around the house and I'm done! I signed up for an instructable account just so I could thank you for posting the idea. I had dreaded bypassing the clearly non-functional fuse because it was a one-time fix. It had not occurred to me that it would be so easy to install a fuse holder. Folks: if you know how to solder and have a 1/2 inch drill bit, you're all set. The circuit board can be moved a bit to make the soldering easier. Great job! Thanks!
Here's a picture of what mine looks like from the outside once the fuse was installed<br>
I know it is months later, but your welcome. Thanks for posing a much clearer picture also.
@papenpj, I also just signed up to give thanks. Thank you. I haven't yet made the mods, but having taken the unit apart, testing the circuitry and continuity, I realized it was the f-ing non serviceable fuse. B&amp;D sure has gone down hill since the 50's and even 60's. <br>If and when I do the mods, I will attempt to take clearer pix, or maybe a vid. Your instructions and tips should make this a fun little project. Again, thank you.
Actually one question before I start this. Why a 1 amp fuse ? Was that the rating of the original ? (I couldn't read the markings on it - these 62 year old eyes need some help)
I honestly don't remember if it was the original value or not, I actually think it might have been a 1.25amp original fuse, but the key to my success is using a SLOW BLOW fuse, that when when the motor first kicks on it not as likely to blow compared to the standard fuse. So far, I have not had to change the fuse, and I have used the unit multiple times. It has already lasted longer than when I turned it on at that garage sale, But even then, all I need to do is switch out the fuse.<br>I also think at the time, I made a calculation based of the DC sides fuse to decide 1amp would work.<br><br>Looking at dvlamis's comment, he put the holder on the opposite side of the unit. from where I did, and soldered to the bottom back side of the PCB to the fuse leads. might be a little bit neater that way.
Thanks papenpj, <br> <br>I noted what dvlamis did and also the location he placed the fuse holder on the back plate. I am thinking of taking the wire (red) from the switch and detaching it from the PCB and soldering it directly to the fuse holder, and then solder the other lead from the fuse holder like dvlamis did. An even &quot;neater&quot; solution. <br> <br>But hey, without your initiative, we wouldn't be refining this. <br>
well, if the red wire goes directly to the fuse, that should work alright. I am a fan of the quick and dirty solution, and if you noticed from few of my comments of mistakes, I jumped in a without much planning, of course I was also used to a different way of mounting fuse holders and switches
Thanks for the comments, folks. Yes, I put the fuse on the other side because I felt I could do it neater that way. But again, just having the inspiration to use a fuse holder (I had never done that before) was great.<br><br>One tip for others: I thought I had left plenty of room on the outside of the fuse holder. I would have placed it a bit closer to the center of the unit had I realized how close I was to the outside of the unit once I put it all back together again. In other words, make sure you don't drill your half-inch hole any farther out than I did. If you do, your fuse holder may hit the side of the unit once you put it all together again. Too bad B&amp;D engineers can't just design this right in the first place.<br><br>I'll be checking out instructables.com for other tips on other devices in the future.

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