Black Iron Pipe Table

217,840

835

26

Posted

Introduction: Black Iron Pipe Table

I've been searching for the right project to my brand new tools to work. After searching for what seems like months I finally came across this post.

I knew I could build it and I knew I wanted to make this my first Instructables post. I hope you find it helpful and inspires you to build your own Black Iron Pipe Table.

Step 1: Tools

You aren't going to need much to create this awesome table.

Here is exactly what I used.

Drill:Ryobi 18-Volt One+

Circular Saw:Ryobi 18-Volt One+

Screws:Grip Rite - 1.5in Black Screws

Step 2: Building Materials

I thought I would be smart and ask the guys at Home Depot to take a bigger piece of black iron and cut it down to the different specifications I needed. Unfortunately I was informed that they can't cut pipes below a certain length, Whether that's true or not who knows.

On the bright side, they do carry pre-cut and threaded pipe at all the various lengths you are going to need. They also carry all the fittings and the wood you are going to need too.

Here is a breakdown of everything I used to build my table.

Wood:

$36.88 (2 pieces) 2 in. x 12 in. x 12 ft. Better Douglas Fir Lumber cut in half. giving me four 6ft pieces

Pipe:

$18.60 (12 Total) 3/4 in. x 3 in. Black Steel Nipple

$15.48 (4 Total) 3/4 in. x 10 in. Black Steel Nipple

$23.64 (4 Total) 3/4 in. x 18 in. Black Steel Nipple

$15.58 (2 total) 3/4 in. x 24 in. Black Steel Nipple

Fittings:

$30.12 (12 Total) 3/4 in. Black Malleable Iron Threaded Floor Flange

$21.68 (8 Total) 3/4 in. Black Malleable Iron Threaded Tee

$ 8.28 (4 Total) 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. Black Malleable Iron 90-Degree Elbow

Total Cost of Materials: $170.26

Step 3: Layout and Fasten Your Boards Together

I used some old 1/2" wood we had in the garage

Step 4: Assemble the Pipe Legs

Screw the pipes together and attach the assembled legs to the upside-down table top. You might have to adjust the pipes for a bit to get a relatively level surface.

Step 5: Flip It and Sand It

Step 6: Congratulations You Have Yourself a New Table

This is where you can stain it and seal it, or use some Danish oil and seal it.

However you choose to finish your table is up to you. Which is part of the fun in building things like this.

Share

Recommendations

  • Science of Cooking

    Science of Cooking
  • Pocket-Sized Contest

    Pocket-Sized Contest
  • Space Challenge

    Space Challenge
user

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.

Tips

Questions

20 Comments

I am about to make a coffee table but I am unsure what is the best thing to clean the black iron pipes with to get all the black resisue and grime off

greased lightning seems to work well

user

I'm building something similar with 1" black iron pipe. Seems as if most of my flat flanges are threaded a bit crooked. Is this possible? I had a plumber check my threads and he says they're perfect. Flanges aren't going on straight with the ends threaded by Home Depot. What should I do? Try some new flanges at the store and pick the best ones? Have you or anyone else here ran into this problem? Thanks.

I have had this problem with every single trip to Home Depot/Lowes. The quality control on the flanges is absolutely horrible. The threading is 95% of the time not centered in the flange. Furthermore, the flange itself almost never sits flat. Made in China...

Ivar, that looks amazing. Great job! Scaffolding materials were a great idea.

Great! I'll do it, excelent job.

The 1/2" boards stretching the width of the table are called battens. I would definitely want more support for the table top boards at the ends, so would add battens there as well. 3-4" in from the end would work well. Better yet: 4 battens supporting the 8 top flanges would be perfect. Chamfer the ends of them as well.

Nice. Perhaps move the supports in to the location of the brace flanges to allow for end seating and eliminate the braces by adding a connecting pipe at the middle of the horizontals with a tee there: resulting in two 'H's connected by the pipe at the middle of the crossing bar. Traditional config.

GREAT LOOKING, STURDY LOOKING, SIMPLICITY. GOTTA LOVE THAT. THANK'S [ VLAD ]

I like this. But on the backside I would have ran a pipe the length of the table and used T fittings instead of elbows. Would add some structural integrity to the table.