Black and Decker VPX battery pack rebuild.

A few years ago I bought a VPX tool system. For $50 it had a powered screwdriver, a reciprocating saw, a drill and a light plus a charger and one battery. I use the power driver the most as it has a very low profile and can get into some tight spaces. I added another charger and three batteries to the system. This year they all conked out. I requested testing info from B&D and got a reply of  "Plug the battery into the charger, wait 30 min. and feel to see if its warm". This didn't answer my question at all, so I started my own investigation into the testing methods.

Tools needed: small straight blade screwdriver to undo the clips, soldering iron, Volt/Ohm meter, needle-nose pliers.

To test the battery set the VOM to DC Volts and check between the two larger terminals (A and B). You should get around 6VDC, but a reading is what you are looking for. If its 3VDC or less, you need to check both of the cells to find out which is bad. With the pack facing you the three small terminals should be on the bottom. Use terminals A and E, then B and E. They should read around 3VDC each. If not one or both of the cells are bad. They will also spot weld terminals to the battery for just a few pennies more. This will come in handy when you rebuild your pack.

To replace your pack with a new one will cost you $20 and up. This site (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200598283959+&clk_rvr_id=248358621899&item=200598283959) has a four pack for around $10 at the time of this posting. You can find other deals by searching for A123 batteries. THEY DO MAKE A NON-RECHARGEABLE A123 battery, so be carful you get the right kind.

To start. remove the label from the battery. it should come off in one piece. You can put it back on later if you store it somewhere the tacky side doesn't get damaged, but you don't need it after the rebuild so don't worry if it gets damaged. With the label removed you can see the clips that hold the pack together. You only need to un-clip the side with the terminals by lifting the tab up with the small pliers.

The battery and terminals should just slip out. DON'T TEAR OFF THE WRAPPER! Once the wires are cut the wrapper will slip off and can be reused. The welds can be pulled off with the pliers, but if you buy the ones with terminals you can just clip them. Remember you will be soldering these wires back on to a new one, so cut them as close as you can.

Step 1 Testing

Tools needed: small straight blade screwdriver to undo the clips, soldering iron, Volt/Ohm meter, needle-nose pliers.

To test the battery set the VOM to DC Volts and check between the two larger terminals (A and B). You should get around 6VDC, but a reading is what you are looking for. If its 3VDC or less, you need to check both of the cells to find out which is bad. With the pack facing you the three small terminals should be on the bottom. Use terminals A and E, then B and E. They should read around 3VDC each. If not one or both of the cells are bad. They will also spot weld terminals to the battery for just a few pennies more. This will come in handy when you rebuild your pack.

Comments

[pfred2]

Are lithium-ion batteries more explosive than other kinds? I've soldered to lots of different kinds of batteries but not a li-on one yet. I scuff them with emery paper, tin them quickly, then solder a tinned wire to it, never had a problem. I have the whole VPX line except for the USB charger air compressor thing. I thought it was a bit too silly. I bought it all at a B&D outlet when they were dumping the line

The flashlight is really cool! I have the 2 battery 14.4V drill, the same kit you have, and the 7.2V clutch keyless chuck drill too. Along with 4 batteries and 2 dual chargers. So yeah when my batteries go I'm going to be hurting!

I think I spend too much time at the B&D outlet

http://i.imgur.com/RCcBv.jpg

[redkcir]

I'm not sure. But to avoid welding (don't have that capability right now) I sometimes use metallic glue instead of spring load battery holders. I have one of these units I put together with Gorilla duct tape (it's a lot stronger that regular tape and is weatherproof) to hold the connection wire to the battery and it's been running for months now. I've recharged it several times and it still going strong.

[pfred2]

I have a few welders, I use a MIG to zap nicad batteries. Works sometimes. I'm pretty sure it doesn't work with lithium ion batteries at all though. There is even an article about doing it here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Revive-Nicad-Batteries-by-Zapping-with-a-Welder/

I just did a pack that was totally dead and reading faulty in my charger but now it is charging up.

Soldering is another story. When I solder to a battery I do it fast.

[redkcir]

I have read that there need to be a bit of power left before you can recharge one, but that you can jump start it some how. It involved tricking the charger into thinking the battery had more power than it did. I can solder as well, but wasn't sure about using that method because of the amount of time it would take to get the battery hot enough for the solder to work. Thats why I tracked down where to get the batteries from. The pre-tabbing was just a bonus find.

[pfred2]

Tabs are better than soldering directly to batteries. I've never had a problem soldering right to a battery though. Like I said I do it so fast they do not have time to heat up on more than just the metal surface. Method is as I said, prepare the surface with emery cloth, tin, then solder a tinned wire to the tinned spot after the battery has cooled down again. Works every time. I'm sure of it.