Step 2: Disassembly

To start the rebuild/repair, pull off the wrapper from the pack. It should come off in one piece. Save it for replacement after the repair.
There are two clips holding the terminal end on the pack, pry them up (Not to hard, you need this piece intact.) I had to use a small flat blade for this step.

Pull the terminals and batteries out. Clip the wires as close to the terminals as possible. I had four packs and only two good batteries. In this case I removed only the bad cell from one and a good cell from another to take its place.

Thanks for the posting. Whole new world for me. What is the thermister for? It's not mentioned as a needed tool in intro. I just opened two battery packs using your instructions and after testing found a good and bad in each, swapped out the bad with a good. I pried off the two whole tabs from the bad one still attached to the wire. Tried to solder old tab to top and bottom of substitute battery without much success so taped the tabs on the substitute battery with Gorilla tape, reassembled it in case, put it in charger and it charged up just fine. I couldn't get the cardboard wrapper back on with the tape, so reassembled it without a wrapper on the newly added, taped one. Seems fine. How important is the wrapper? Also, ordered set of 8 new batteries with tabs and they asked about orientation for the tabs. I wasn't sure what to say??? Any thoughts??? Also, if the tape holds up, it will be easier to rebuild in the future without the solder, just keep re-using old tabs attached to wiring. What do you think?
Sorry it took so long to answer you.<br>The thermistor is a device like a fuse but works on heat. Safety feature. I think the wrapper just keeps some distance between the batteries. Heat issue maybe? As for tab orientation see the attached pictures. When the polarity is +-+- the bottom tabs are together it leaves the top tabs facing opposite directions. A resistor and white wire attach to the bottom pair which leaves the black and red wire for the top tabs.
Are lithium-ion batteries more explosive than other kinds? I've soldered to lots of different kinds of batteries but not a li-on one yet. I scuff them with emery paper, tin them quickly, then solder a tinned wire to it, never had a problem. I have the whole VPX line except for the USB charger air compressor thing. I thought it was a bit too silly. I bought it all at a B&amp;D outlet when they were dumping the line<br> <br> The flashlight is really cool! I have the 2 battery 14.4V drill, the same kit you have, and the 7.2V clutch keyless chuck drill too. Along with 4 batteries and 2 dual chargers. So yeah when my batteries go I'm going to be hurting!<br> <br> I think I spend too much time at the B&amp;D outlet<br> <br> <a href="http://i.imgur.com/RCcBv.jpg">http://i.imgur.com/RCcBv.jpg</a><br>
I'm not sure. But to avoid welding (don't have that capability right now) I sometimes use metallic glue instead of spring load battery holders. I have one of these units I put together with Gorilla duct tape (it's a lot stronger that regular tape and is weatherproof) to hold the connection wire to the battery and it's been running for months now. I've recharged it several times and it still going strong.
I have a few welders, I use a MIG to zap nicad batteries. Works sometimes. I'm pretty sure it doesn't work with lithium ion batteries at all though. There is even an article about doing it here:<br> <br> <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Revive-Nicad-Batteries-by-Zapping-with-a-Welder/">http://www.instructables.com/id/Revive-Nicad-Batteries-by-Zapping-with-a-Welder/</a><br> <br> I just did a pack that was totally dead and reading faulty in my charger but now it is charging up.<br> <br> Soldering is another story. When I solder to a battery I do it fast.<br> <br>
I have read that there need to be a bit of power left before you can recharge one, but that you can jump start it some how. It involved tricking the charger into thinking the battery had more power than it did. I can solder as well, but wasn't sure about using that method because of the amount of time it would take to get the battery hot enough for the solder to work. Thats why I tracked down where to get the batteries from. The pre-tabbing was just a bonus find.
Tabs are better than soldering directly to batteries. I've never had a problem soldering right to a battery though. Like I said I do it so fast they do not have time to heat up on more than just the metal surface. Method is as I said, prepare the surface with emery cloth, tin, then solder a tinned wire to the tinned spot after the battery has cooled down again. Works every time. I'm sure of it.

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Bio: No longer working, but was a maintenance worker when I did. Assoc. degree in Computer Networking. Repair computers and work on digital art as hobbies ... More »
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