This project breaks into far more delicate, feminine, territory for me, so I hope y'all don't object. Don't fret too much though, I'll be back to RC hotrods and the like soon.

I decided to make a 3D printed night-light for my soon-to-be-born baby girl's room and, as is the norm with my projects, I got a bit carried away, so I present to you the fully-articulated, wifi-enabled, 3d-printed night-light (patent not pending).

Parts List

Printed Parts

Mechanical Parts

  • M3 nuts (5)
  • M3x6 screws(5)
  • M3x10 screws (10)
  • M3x30 screw (1)
  • 3mmx15mm pins (or screws with heads cut off)
  • Stainless Cable (~20cm)

Electrical Parts

These parts are what I used, but really that is just because I had them lying around from my light plotter. You may want to control the whole business with a push-button and an Arduino, or even better, an ATtiny and not much else, so I won't go into ridiculous detail regarding the electronics side of things (but I will give you links where you can learn more if needed).

  • LEDs [I used 3V purple] (9)
  • Resistors [I used 120ohm - depends on your colour choice and power supply] (3)
  • 12V power supply
  • RC Servo
  • ESP8266 Wifi Module
  • 5V regulator
  • 3.3V regulator

Step 1: Printing

There are a handful of things to keep in mind when printing


I chose PETG because it prints beautifully and I had it in white, but most of all, for its translucency.


I designed this for a 0.4mm nozzle, thin elements like the petals are multiples of 0.4mm thick (0.8mm in the case of the petals and diffusor ball)


Very little support material required, and none needed on outer visible surfaces.

Have a look at my photos for ideas of how I orientated parts and where I used supports, but the parts should all be pretty obvious, they each have a flat surface to go on the print bed.

Make sure that you don't get any support structures inside the various 3mm holes (for example, the slots that the petal's pivots lie in)


Some of the parts can be printed together, such as the mechanical linkages, but I chose to print each petal and the diffusor ball as individual pieces. This is a giant pain in the butt, but it helps maintain perfect surfaces, especially avoiding the nasty stringing that PETG is prone to.


The majority of the parts don't need any brim or raft, but I found it neccesary on the "axis" part, since it has such a small footprint.

You may want to adjust the lead in (start point of each loop, probably called different things in different slicers), or you may end up with a visible line up the middle of each petal, where every loop begins and ends.

<p>I've made this for my unborn little girl too. I'm struggeling with the arduinocode. dont use a wifi but want to just open the flower when i power it on. Can you help me with the code?</p>
Hi Hielke<br><br>Doing it without WiFi is wise, I hardly ever use mine because it is too much effort to get the phone out ;-)<br><br>Regarding the code for your Arduino, I recommend you take a look at the &quot;button&quot; example and the servo &quot;sweep&quot; or &quot;knob&quot; example sketches.<br><br>In other words, when you detect a button press you will use servo.write(open) and servo.write(close) where &quot;open&quot; and &quot;close&quot; are variables that store the angles at which your servo opens or closes the flower.<br><br>If you have trouble with it then let me know, I can give more help once the current 3D printing competition is close, at the moment every spare hobby second is going towards getting my entry ready!<br><br>By the way, I'd love to see a pic of your flower once it is done.
<p>So it's a short jump to an Alien egg with facehugger from here</p>
&quot;a short jump&quot;, I see what you did there.

About This Instructable




Bio: Electrical Engineer by trade, tinkerer by heart.
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