Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Tired of that standard red light under your mouse? Switch it out!
all you need is a soldering iron (and preferably a desoldering tool as well), a multimeter, and the color led you want (and possibly a resistor).
I used a cheap $10 Ativa brand mouse from Office Depot, and a blue led (3.4V 8000mcd).
This particular LED will NOT be available at your local radio shack, I specially order a batch a while back since it is a low voltage blue LED. (and quite bright too)
You can use any color of LED you want, as long as the rated voltage is 4V or lower and the luminosity is around 4000 - 8000 mcd.
I've recently (Mar-5-08) put a UV LED in a cheap HP mouse I got a while back to mod. After overriding the resistor, the mouse pumps out the 5 volts require to blast the 3.4v led. It needs a small resistor, as it frequently starts to overheat and will stop responding for a few seconds.
Kinda strange, though it makes since with UV light, the mouse works fine as long as it's not on a black surface.
As any kid who's fooled around with a blacklight will know, black objects barely show up if at all. Naturally, the light is not reflected to the eye, and the mouse is blind on very dark surfaces.
all you need is a soldering iron (and preferably a desoldering tool as well), a multimeter, and the color led you want (and possibly a resistor).
I used a cheap $10 Ativa brand mouse from Office Depot, and a blue led (3.4V 8000mcd).
This particular LED will NOT be available at your local radio shack, I specially order a batch a while back since it is a low voltage blue LED. (and quite bright too)
You can use any color of LED you want, as long as the rated voltage is 4V or lower and the luminosity is around 4000 - 8000 mcd.
I've recently (Mar-5-08) put a UV LED in a cheap HP mouse I got a while back to mod. After overriding the resistor, the mouse pumps out the 5 volts require to blast the 3.4v led. It needs a small resistor, as it frequently starts to overheat and will stop responding for a few seconds.
Kinda strange, though it makes since with UV light, the mouse works fine as long as it's not on a black surface.
As any kid who's fooled around with a blacklight will know, black objects barely show up if at all. Naturally, the light is not reflected to the eye, and the mouse is blind on very dark surfaces.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1Disassembly
unscrew the top panel from the base.
The screws are usually hidden under the mouse's "feet", or those little black pads.
Once they're out, there may be a locking tab you have to push to pry the panel off.
If you get a cheap mouse, the inner components will be nice and big and easy to work with. the fancy ones will have capacitors and resistors that measure about 2mm x 4mm x 1mm. Those are not fun to place and re-solder.
The screws are usually hidden under the mouse's "feet", or those little black pads.
Once they're out, there may be a locking tab you have to push to pry the panel off.
If you get a cheap mouse, the inner components will be nice and big and easy to work with. the fancy ones will have capacitors and resistors that measure about 2mm x 4mm x 1mm. Those are not fun to place and re-solder.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
thx,
lol it gives the feeling to be more accurate =S
[IMG]http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee97/alex_verity/Photo019.jpg[/IMG]