Boat Repair with Carbon Fiber

 by schkip1973
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This instructible is to show you how to make small repairs to watercraft eg. cracks or chips on kayaks, surfskis, surfboards etc.

If you have ever paddled or lifted a kayak across rocks like these, you will probably need to do a repair.

This 'ible will work for:
- small wooden boats or kayaks
- fiberglass or carbon kayaks/skis/surfboards
- repairs where the hull is intact and not compromised
- scratches and small cracks

This ible will not work for:
- rotomolded or 'tupperware' kayaks - the epoxy will not bond to this material
- some kayaks which have single-part + hardener finish / old gelcoats
- boat repairs which are structural in nature. One piece of tape will not repair a hole in the hull :)
- high performance craft below-the-waterline hull repairs.  This repair will create too much drag.  Time for a new boat!

If in doubt, check with a marine engineer for a survey before commencing work. Another option is to try a small patch of the boat (eg. under the seat thwarts on a rowboat) to check the part bonds well.

If you are in luck, this low cost repair will save you the cost of a new boat and extend the lifetime of your vessel by many years to come.

 
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Step 1: Safety First!

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Safety First!

This instructible using the following things that are dangerous to humans with short and long exposure.

Some Hazards:

Epoxy Vapours: the epoxy resin gives of vapours which are toxic.  Wear a respirator with a gas canister at all times you are working with epoxy.
Epoxy Sensitivity: epoxy resin can cause sensitisation in people with time.  Avoid contact with skin and follow the manufacturer's safety instructions.
Epoxy splashes: avoid the wet epoxy touching your body - especially be careful around your eyes (considering this is a mask). Wear safety glasses and gloves.  People may have an allergy to latex gloves too! In which case you can use the non-latex gloves or thin allergy free gloves.

Carbon Dust: when you grind away the finished carbon fiber shape there will be carbon dust.  Wash it down and away, and wear a particulate or dust filtering respirator / cartridge when you are doing this step.
Carbon Slivers: Avoid getting small bits of carbon 'tow' or splinters caught in your fingers.  Again gloves are good here.

Paint fumes: when spraying work in a well-ventilated area and wear glasses/gloves and old clothes, not your tuxedo.

Scared Away? I hope not!
Cambronze says: Jan 24, 2012. 9:00 PM
I also rub petroleum jelly (vaseline) into my hands and forearms. This seems to help with the fibre irritation.
aristide202 in reply to CambronzeFeb 5, 2012. 11:08 AM
Before or after the work? It's not easy to get rid of dense vaseline from skin so tell us.
schkip1973 (author) says: Jan 26, 2012. 6:20 PM
thanks for the info!

I like the idea about the 'mantra' .. makes it like an instinct rather than something that is forgotten.
StephenMiller1958 says: Jan 25, 2012. 2:53 AM
Thanks for emphasising the safety angle. All commercial products are safe if used correctly.

You get good at safety by treating the steps like a mantra.... don't be impatient - recite to yourself the safety steps for example:

To change a drill bit.

- wait for the drill to stop spinning
- disconnect the power
- deploy the chuck
-put the old drill bit it it's proper place
- attach the new drill bit
-return the chuck to its proper place
- reconnect the power
- test the drill with a quick squeeze

This is the approach that medical staff use in responding to a cardiac arrest - like robots reciting their mantra of their role on the cardiac cart...

Probably I would have added never work alone... have someone nearby - even if only through the kitchen window - watching your back....

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