Step 2: Tools and Materials

For this project, you will need the following tools and materials.  I have tried to provide a reference in Australia and USA where possible.

Dremel or motorised grinding tool - Bunnings / Home Depot / $ shop. For tidying up any 'dags'.
Stanley Knife or Box Cutter with spare blades - Bunnings / Home Depot / $2 shop
Safety Gear - goggles, latex gloves and respirator with gas and particle canisters - Bunnings / Home Depot
Brush - $2 shop - for painting the epoxy
Scissors - ideally these would be for cutting carbon/kevlar.  Any sharp scissors are ok (not for kevlar, only carbon). Otherwise you can experiment with the stanley knife if you want to save money.


Epoxy Resin (two part) - you can buy these from the same places as the carbon tape, or marine chandleries like bunnings.  Another place to get it for 'free' is a local boatyard or if you know someone building a boat.  Remember to get the epoxy resin, not PU resin with hardner. If you get any good, they may offer you a job!

Surgical Gloves - pack of 50 - Bunnings or paint shop - $5

Carbon Fiber tape 1" or 2" x 1 meter - $5 - http://www.carbonfiber.com.au/ or http://www.cstsales.com/products.html.  It is cheaper to get the tape than a meter/yard of cloth and it is easier to work with in this application. It is better to buy one with a selvage edge so the carbon will only deteriorate in one dimension.

Blue Painter's tape - bunnings or 3M or home depot - $6

Newspaper - to avoid a mess.

Clear release film * 1m $5 - this is to prevent the epoxy sticking to the film.  I had some film already which I think was polyurethane.  You can buy this from the carbon vendors above.

Clear Varnish - $2 in a rattlecan.

take-away containers - recycled and washed! for holding the epoxy resin.

So for less than $30 or so you may be able to save yourself from a ruined boat!
<p>I also rub petroleum jelly (vaseline) into my hands and forearms. This seems to help with the fibre irritatin.</p>
<p>You can also use &quot;Peel Ply&quot; to squeeze out the excess resin and also remove air bubbles. Peel Ply cloth can be purchased from carbon suppliers but you can also use ripstop nylon (as used for sailboat spinnakers). <br>Cut a piece of your peel ply material larger than the repair area. Make your carbon repair then lay the peel ply material over the top and either wrap it around tightly or for flat surfaces, use tape to pull it taught over the repair so that the excess resin is squeezed out through the material. When cured, you can remove the Peel Ply and it will leave a near-smooth surface for rubbing down.</p>
I also rub petroleum jelly (vaseline) into my hands and forearms. This seems to help with the fibre irritation.
Before or after the work? It's not easy to get rid of dense vaseline from skin so tell us.
Before, But I do a lot of fibreglassing and I find the best thing you can do is cover any exposed skin with babypowder before you start, it helps to stop the glass working into your skin, and a lot easier cleanup than vaseline <br>
thanks for the info!<br><br>I like the idea about the 'mantra' .. makes it like an instinct rather than something that is forgotten.<br>
Thanks for emphasising the safety angle. All commercial products are safe if used correctly. <br><br>You get good at safety by treating the steps like a mantra.... don't be impatient - recite to yourself the safety steps for example:<br><br>To change a drill bit.<br><br>- wait for the drill to stop spinning<br>- disconnect the power<br>- deploy the chuck<br> -put the old drill bit it it's proper place<br>- attach the new drill bit<br> -return the chuck to its proper place<br>- reconnect the power<br>- test the drill with a quick squeeze<br><br>This is the approach that medical staff use in responding to a cardiac arrest - like robots reciting their mantra of their role on the cardiac cart...<br><br>Probably I would have added never work alone... have someone nearby - even if only through the kitchen window - watching your back....<br><br>

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