Step 3: Prepare the Surface

Collate all of the tools and materials in the same place, like a surgeon.
The epoxy will set quickly when activated, so you will not get a lot of time to drive to the shop if you have forgotten something.  Planning is the key.  You can even practice without the epoxy to start, eg. use a piece of cloth or newspaper.
This may save you money as well.

Clean the surface of the boat with methylated sprits, or detergent and water.  Wait for it to dry and ensure any sea water, grime, dust, oil, detergent etc. etc. have been removed.  Otherwise the tape will stick to the dust and fall off, not the boat. Simple as that.

Mask off the section with blue painter's tape. this is so that you can remove the tape when the epoxy is 'tack dry' and thus remove any spills.

Lightly sand the affected area with 200 grit sandpaper.  This is to prep the surface so that the epoxy / carbon will take to the surface.

For cracks, it is important to prevent the cracks from further propagating.  Drill the end of the cracks out! Sounds counter-intuitive, right? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_concentration

You can see in the photo the prepared surface with a crack and prevention holes is ready for the carbon. 

Cut the carbon fiber to measure and be careful to prevent the ends from fraying.
<p>I also rub petroleum jelly (vaseline) into my hands and forearms. This seems to help with the fibre irritatin.</p>
<p>You can also use &quot;Peel Ply&quot; to squeeze out the excess resin and also remove air bubbles. Peel Ply cloth can be purchased from carbon suppliers but you can also use ripstop nylon (as used for sailboat spinnakers). <br>Cut a piece of your peel ply material larger than the repair area. Make your carbon repair then lay the peel ply material over the top and either wrap it around tightly or for flat surfaces, use tape to pull it taught over the repair so that the excess resin is squeezed out through the material. When cured, you can remove the Peel Ply and it will leave a near-smooth surface for rubbing down.</p>
I also rub petroleum jelly (vaseline) into my hands and forearms. This seems to help with the fibre irritation.
Before or after the work? It's not easy to get rid of dense vaseline from skin so tell us.
Before, But I do a lot of fibreglassing and I find the best thing you can do is cover any exposed skin with babypowder before you start, it helps to stop the glass working into your skin, and a lot easier cleanup than vaseline <br>
thanks for the info!<br><br>I like the idea about the 'mantra' .. makes it like an instinct rather than something that is forgotten.<br>
Thanks for emphasising the safety angle. All commercial products are safe if used correctly. <br><br>You get good at safety by treating the steps like a mantra.... don't be impatient - recite to yourself the safety steps for example:<br><br>To change a drill bit.<br><br>- wait for the drill to stop spinning<br>- disconnect the power<br>- deploy the chuck<br> -put the old drill bit it it's proper place<br>- attach the new drill bit<br> -return the chuck to its proper place<br>- reconnect the power<br>- test the drill with a quick squeeze<br><br>This is the approach that medical staff use in responding to a cardiac arrest - like robots reciting their mantra of their role on the cardiac cart...<br><br>Probably I would have added never work alone... have someone nearby - even if only through the kitchen window - watching your back....<br><br>

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