Introduction: Boffer Armaments Pt. 3: Battle Axe

After having used the Great Axe and Shield in a fight, I realized that the set is great for a workout, but not good for actually sparring. So, I decided to make something a little similar, but lighter weight and only having one blade for the head.

Having already done this once, I decided to go with a lighter material for the core, and a smaller haft for the axe. Still PVC with an Oak dowel core, but 1" versus 1.5".

You'll still need some form of material for the core, that big rubber sheet in this case. A few bolts, a haft and padding are the rest of what you'll need.

Step 1: Cutting and Attaching the Core

So, the material we have for this is of slightly lower density than solid rubber. This, I believe is part of a mat used under workout machines to keep vibrations from breaking up flooring. It's made out of pureed tires.

So, first thing is to come up with a vague design for the axe head. Mine's going to be a stocky bearded axe, so, I cut out that part of the shape. Tagged in the first picture.

To give it a little more rigidity, I added enough for a fold over the top. In pictures 3 and 4, you can see how it was folded, then drilled and bolted through.

Since this was a little more finicky than the last one, I had to clamp down the rubber and the handle, then use a hand drill to get it in roughly the correct spot. It did not want to stay on a drill press table long enough to clamp properly.

Four bolts and corresponding washers should keep the core together with little movement or tearing.

Step 2: Cutting the Foam

Since this is a smaller axe head, we don't need quite as much foam as the Great Axe. For this, we use a bit more than a foot of the neoprene-like foam.

Since the large tube is a little long for the width of the axe head, I cut off the front portion just beyond the core, and cut off a small portion of the lower back, so it looks more like an axe than a wad of foam attached to a stick.

Waste not, want not. I used the cut off portions for reinforcement. The long strip cut from the front will be reattached as more padding for the "blade," and the portion that was cut from the back of the axe will add more padding over the top of the core.

Step 3: Firmly Attaching the Foam.

So, since this isn't as hefty as the Great Axe, the securing is a little bit less involved. However, I'm still using hockey skate laces and gaff tape.

The key points to make sure are secured are around the front and across the top. The back isn't as much of an issue because it will be secured to everything else. I tied one end of the laces to the haft and started wrapping. Two laces were enough to make sure it wouldn't move.

One below the "blade" and "top" layers and just over the layer covering the core. Then some gaff tape to secure the next layers of foam while the second lace is tied over.

After that, more gaff tape. Your best bet is to reinforce all the laces already attached by making sure they won't move using gaff tape. It's strong, it's durable, and, if the laces are tied securely, it'll just make it all the stronger and less likely to fall apart.

Step 4: The Beatings Will Continue Until Morale Improves.

So, now, true to Gimli and many other dwarves, you now have a double-bit Great Axe and a single-bit Battle Axe. The weight of the Battle Axe is a little less than half the weight of the Great Axe, coming in at a rousing 3.2 lbs.

I'll be sparring with it shortly and probably coming up with a design for a short and long sword soon. So, await parts 4 and 5!

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Bio: Hi, we're Dara and Nash. Industrial designers, tinkers, and mayhem builders. Follow our travels.
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