Step 8: Remove the Tape.

After the resin is fully set, carefully begin peeling away the foil/tape. If the foil was kept relatively smooth and the tape was not touching the resin, it should peel away from the hardened resin easily. The only area I had problems was where some resin seeped between overlapping ends of the foil/tape. Also, there were a couple of spots where the resin seeped over the edge of the blue tape slightly. These were both easily remedied using a hobby knife.
<p>Made one too but used grout as well as resin! Check it out on my page for a step by step :)</p>
<p>How many ounces of the resin did you use? I'm looking at it on Amazon and there are many different sizes and I'm wondering how many I need to buy?</p>
<p>i know you put it on here but i cant find where, what kind of resin did you recomend?</p>
<p>I have about 4000 that I've been collecting since I was 14 in anticipation to make a small bar top and I think it's time I stop and make one! Super helpful. A tip to anyone who finds a brand with a cap you love, write to the company because they just asked how many I wanted and sent them to me for free, usually with other promo stuff like shirts/stickers etc. Doesn't hurt to ask!</p>
<p>How did your edge come out? I just finished both of my flood coats and the edge is a bit off. Did you even it out at all with the exacto knife</p>
<p>How come you cant just put a thin layer of resin down, place the caps and then cover it the rest of the way?</p>
<p>I have the same question? wouldn't that also seal the wood from drips better as well. maybe brush a layer on first?</p>
<p>Hi everyone this is my first attempt at doing anything like this and i think i may have gone overboard. I'm making a bar to be game of thrones themed Design to come I have about 6k bottle caps that I've amassed between all my friends an I am in some trouble when it comes to the epoxy part.... I made the table top completely out of scrap wood from the bin at work and did not build it on a level surface... there is about a 1/4&quot;-1/2&quot; difference on the surface of the wood and its all been glued down pretty well. anyone have any helpful hints on how pour the epoxy so that I'm not wasting a ton of it. is there a way to partition out the pours? does anyone know the S/F you get out of a gallon of epoxy. I'm very worried that the bar may be too big to cover due to $$.. any help would be appreciated!</p>
Just a tip...you can buy crimp free microbrew and soda caps in bulk on eBay for not a whole lot of money.
<p>-Buy microbrews based on how cool the caps are, not how good the beer is? Really? Great instructions though.</p>
Well if you have to make a choice. Either make a cool table. Or drink your favorite beer and use all the same caps.
<p>I think this one was said in jest. When you have a big bottle cap collection, you inadvertently buy new beers for the cap rather than getting a beer you know you really like but have 200 caps of</p>
<p>I made one a little like this, but had to do a few pub-crawls equipped with a plastic bag and a winning smile in order to collect enough bottle tops from pubs.</p><p>I assembled the design in the reverse mosaic method and then attached the finished design to a piece of cement-board the same size as my pre-bought table using a slightly sloppy tile adhesive mix. This took a couple of days to go off, but allowed me to colour the adhesive with acrylic paint and give an attractive background colour.</p><p>Since my table was only a .5 X .5 square, I was able to make raised wooden sides from a piece of decorative moulding sides which I stuck on with no-nails. It only protruded at most 1.5 mm above the bottletops, so I was able to calculate the volume of resin I would need to buy.</p><p>0.5 X 0.5 X .0015 = 0.375 ml. Plus about a half again to fill the gaps between the tops which were not filled with my tile adhesive. I took a risk and decided that 600ml would be enough.</p><p>I poured the resin having levelled my table top using a spirit level, and used a heat gun to dissipate the bubbles that formed. In about 8 hours the whole thing was safe to touch and had completely cured inside 48 hrs.</p><p>And then......I gave it to my stepson on the proviso he would take some pictures for just such an occasion as this, but still waiting......</p>
<p>I want to make one myself, but I drink to little beer to accumulate all of them :/ </p>
Any problems with air bubbles since the caps weren't totally emerged in glue?
<p>It seems that a lot of people are having trouble with the foil sticking, do you think this project would work with wax paper (like for baking)? Or do you think the resin would stick to that even more?</p>
<p>Do not use any oiled or waxed surfaces for this. While it might help a little bit with the barrier not sticking - the sides it covered is very likely to become tacky/soft/sticky. If any surface doesn't harden properly during the rather lengthy curing process, it will not harden - ever.<br><br>Some resins are easier to &quot;fix&quot; than others, when this has already happened. Polyester for one, is very hard. This is good, because that means not only can you grind/sand away the tacky surface - but more importantly - you can sand and polish it to a &quot;clear glass&quot; surface afterwards. Epoxy for instance, is too soft for this.<br><br>Remedying this is often a lengthy and tedious piece of work. But given the fact this is a &quot;hands-on&quot; surface, it needs to be fairly solid.</p>
Alot of times people dont mix resin to hardner ratio equally. Some call 2 to 1 and also 1 to 1 parts. Also make sure resin is for exterior use being it is on a boat. Hope that helped some.
<p>The foil comes off easily if you pass a blow torch over it. I had no issues with that. The only issue with sticking was with the duct tape. </p>
I have a question. I'm hoping you can help. A friend of mine is trying to attach fake 100 dollar bills to the swim deck of his boat. Could you help me help him? He bought the resin you suggested, but he used modge poge to stick the bills down to the deck. The deck itself is fiberglass, with a spray on bedliner. He mixed the resin as suggested by the instructions. But it never completely hardened. He's doing this outside as well. I'm not sure if that's a factor. But any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Would this table be okay outside in the weather?
It depends on the resin. There's both interior and exterior type resins.
<p>I am looking for someone in or around the DFW with exerience in making a beer cap resin sealed table. Anyone with experience or known how please hit me up so we can work something out. I have saved up over 3000+ beer caps for this project and I want it done right.<br><br>Regards,<br><br>Chris</p>
<p>This might be a bit too late, but if you're still looking for someone to do this for you feel free to email me at mpmurphy2014@gmail.com</p>
<p>In the step where you spread the resin I find not touching the resin at all works best. What I do is press an old beat up electric sander with no paper on it against the object. It is just the foam pad in contact with the product so no damage or marks. Also NO Velcro sanding pad sanders. On this table I would suggest pressing on a couple of locations to the underside of the table. The relatively gentle vibrations agitates the resin enough to help it spread and smooth itself out and it also helps the small air bubbles to rise through the resin leaving a perfect even spread in minutes.</p>
<p>great instructions by step by step which really nice expose new idea for us to do as you are doing for great community....</p>
<p>Does it matter if i lay out the caps with a little more space or tightly put together? I wanna do tighter but I don't want it to affect the table at all</p>
<p>I just finished mine. It was pretty easy. The issue I have is the top edge of the resin is rough. How do I round it off and still keep it looking nice.</p>
<p>I did a larger coffee table. But, there are a few suggestions though..... Make sure that your barrier around the table very sturdy, also make sure you have plenty of superglue handy, and finally make sure when you calculate how much resin you need to account for the 1/4&quot; height of the bottle caps. Other than that, I love my table, can't wait to make more of them!</p>
<p>this looks awesome! how much resin did you use?</p>
<p>Nicely done. Thanks for the details.</p>
<p>Awesome well presented project now I know what I'm doing with my bottle tops. Cheers!!</p>
<p>I pushed beer bottle tops into the end of a cut log</p><p>.. Made a great table. When the log rotted, I just upped my beer intake! Easy Peasy!</p>
<p>NOW I KNO HOW TO GET RID OF MY PENNIES &hellip;.!</p><p>THANK U</p><p>RON</p>
When you were adhering the caps to the wood, did you fill the caps with anything, like hot glue? Other online tutorials suggest this step because they feared the air in the caps would cause bubbles in resin while it cured or bumps in the surface over time. My table is 80&quot;x40&quot; and I have over 2000 caps so I would like to avoid this step to reduce the weight (by about 13 pounds). If you didn't fill the caps, did you have any of these problems. Thanks
My wife and I actually met at one of those cap covered pub tables you talked about at a local bar. We've been doing the collecting for that last 5 years to make our own. We actually have had enough caps and the table to use for quite a while but the main thing holding me back has been my inexperience in using resin and not wanting to mess it up. The main thing I wondered about was how to retain the resin on the top. Now I feel confident enough to actually do it. I might actually make it for her as a Christmas gift. Thanks!
I'm on my 2nd attempt at my beer cap table. Caps are in place and I am ready to pour the resin (my first error was using poly and not resin). My question is if the resin will hold up outdoors as mine is a patio table. The resin I have bought is Parks Super Glaze ultra gloss epoxy but it doesn't really specify if it is for outdoor use. Think it will work?
Sliding door
"Bottle cap furniture" , I told my wife, " I want to quit my job and start making bottle cap furniture". She just rolls her eyes. <br/>I love it. I'm on my 5 th project. I've made a bar in the shape of California, 2 end tables similar to this one, concrete table top and the barn door that separates my man cave from the rest of the house. I wish I would have taken more pics and did a tutorial of the bar and the door.
Nice. I'm thinking of doing something similar, with a collage mod podged on. How much resin did you use? Should we be looking at gallons or something smaller?
I would pour rice or sand into the object you are going to work on before you start and measure how much volume it holds to see what amount of resin you will need and then keep a silicone mold or two handy on the side to accept the leftover resin if you have any.
&nbsp;I was thinking about doing a project like this, and considering hot glue to secure the caps. Did you reject this approach for some reason? Mess?
I originally thought of grouting the table, so I bought glue with that in mind. &nbsp;When I decided to use the polymer resin, I just didn't really rethink the glue. &nbsp;Since I hadn't used this resin before, my main concerns were (obviously) to keep the caps in place and not have a lot of glue show around the edges of the bottle caps.<br /> <br /> If you can keep the hot glue &quot;strings&quot; under control and minimize the amount of excess around the caps, I think hot glue would work just fine for this project. &nbsp;Thanks for the suggestion.<br />
Hot glue can work even if the &quot;stringing&quot; is a problem. A blow drier set on high will wither and eliminate the strings for you.
I tried edging a mirror in bottlecaps, and when doing that i tried hot glue and superglue. THe hot glue popped right off pretty much right after adhering to the mirror for a minute. (not sure if there would be a different result if it wasn't sticking to glass). Can't wait to try this in table form and use the resin... im hoping for a funky and cool piece like that!!! A+ job americangypsi!!!!!
&nbsp;Cool table. &nbsp;In college I made a 5' x 7' beer pong table covered with caps. &nbsp;Needless to say I was working on a much bigger surface. &nbsp;Had a friend that could do the covering of the caps with fiberglass resin for free (which was great), but we used polyurethane to do the initial gluing down of the caps (aside from the sliding issue, caps will try to float... so let me reiterate what the poster said... don't skip this!). &nbsp;<br /> <br /> The benefit to polyurethane is that it's cheap, you can just spread some on in a not too thin layer with a brush and move the caps as necessary, it dries in a reasonable amount of time, and you don't have to worry as much about mess. &nbsp;Polyurethane is the same thing gorilla glue is made out of, so it will definitely hold. &nbsp;If you're worried about the slightly yellow color (e.g., if your background color is white or light wood), use polycrylic instead, just make sure that it is all covered and can't get any moisture on it (it discolors).&nbsp;
I wanted to say thank you. I wanted to pour a work table top and I succeeded after following your directions. My foil stuck a little but it is the kind of resin I used. I took it off with a knife no problem. Thanks again. I really appreciated your clear directions.
Thanks for the amazing tutorial. I'm planning on using my bottle caps for something ... haven't decided what yet, but your instructions will help me plan once I figure it out!
Need to get drinking so I can do this
yeah I could not download it either....I think I have enough bottle caps for a couple of these and really want to do this!

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