Step 2: Make the rails

The sizing of your rails may vary with your table saw. The grooves in the SawStop table saw at the MPK Tech Shop are slightly narrower than 3/4", and about 1/4" deep, and somewhere between a third to a half of the overall length of your table. Measure your grooves and rip cut two strips of wood off the end of your 1x12" board that are thick enough to sit just below flush to the surface. If your rails are too high, your jig will rub on the bottom of the groove rather than sit flat on the table. 

I ripped the strips off using the table saw with the standard blade and tuned them to the right width and height on the sander.

Ideally, your guide rails should be at least about 1/3 to 1/2 as long as your table. Too long and you'll have too much resistance, and you could potentially hit something on the other side of your table. Too short and the guide rails won't do their job. However, the length is not as important as the height and the ability to flow smoothly through the channels.

Before moving on, take a minute to slide your guard rails back and forth and side to side. They should glide easily along the groove (sanding will assist with that too - the guide rails will be smoother)
The instructions for this were done well. my saw kept catching on the spacer and throwing it so instead i drilled two holes perpendicular the table in line where the spacer would be and ran dowel rods threw the hole when needed to line up the cut properly and remove it when needed. great instructable.
<p>I went one step farther and went to a metal shop and picked up some 1/2' square steel. In total, it cost me $8.00. That gave me 8 inches of steel, 4 for the tongue and 4 for a spacer. I find it works a lot better than the wood as it doesn't snag or chip. Also, the spare piece allows me to set my blade height VERY quickly. I just used a drill press to drill through and then countersunk the screw.</p>
<p>We found the instructions easy to follow and it works well. We are starting the drawers for our bathroom cabinets ASAP!</p>
<p>Although I found the instruction a little confusing (more pics, less text), it did work out in the end. One thing I think helped was to mount the 2x4 to the backplane and rip it down to get flat surface, which made mounting it to base really easy and clean. </p>
Cool jig. Easy to make and works pretty well. I countersunk magnets into the first spacer so I don't lose it.
<p>Great idea! </p>
Awesome instructable. Just what I've been looking for to make a case for my next projects. <br>Thanks a bunch for sharing.
If this jig is secured and clamped on a router table, would it not work as well with a router? At present I do not have a table saw to work with, but I do have a router and a Miter Saw. I have a other saws and I think I can still make the cuts on the wood.
A router attached to a router table should be fine I would think. just be sure to use a good bit. i find that on the router, a spiral up cut bit works best as it slices wood and doesnt rip it like a regular rabbit or dado bit would.
I really like this jig. i got a plan off the web that uses your saws Miter gauge and you just screw a piece of scrap 1x4 or 1x6 to it and then do this same thing with the 1/2 stick for a spacer but I like your version better because the thing that ruined my last project (wooden dogs toys toy box) was that 1/2 way through cutting the boards, i knoticed the miter guage had loosened and wasnt set at 90 degrees no more... that stunk. I had to cut off all the ends and then i got mad and just used dowles to join all the pieces with oak dowles. looks good anyhow. But, your designe is nicer. its more like a miter slead with out the miter. very nice, plus i like your use of the second spacer.
Great job ! &acirc;€&brvbar; <br>It's simplicity and almost foolproof idea (&quot;almost&quot; as fools can be very creative) makes it one of the best idea (maybe the best) I've found on the net for a box joint jig (and there are a lot of them ! &acirc;€&brvbar;&Acirc;&nbsp;). <br> <br>However as a foreigner I have trouble to know what exactly is a&quot;dado stack bit set&quot; as stated on the list of required material. <br>&acirc;€&brvbar;&Acirc;&nbsp; <br>Is it the two blades contraption that is shown on your table saw ?&acirc;€&brvbar; <br>If not how this two blade system is called, and is it something &quot;homemade&quot; (if so how did you make it ?) or is it available on the market (a link would be absolutely fantastic) ,&acirc;€&brvbar; <br> <br>Thank you again.
That's a very creative (and dead simple at that) way to make sure your spacing is correct. I like it!
Glad you like it so much!
Very interesting.<br /> <br /> I should try to put two or more equal cutting blades in my hand grinder, for make these unions in my <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/A-cheap-%26-useful-cutting-table/" rel="nofollow">homemade cutting table</a>.

About This Instructable




More by mistermocha:Box (finger) joint jig 
Add instructable to: