Step 4: Make the 1/2" Spacer

This box joint will be set precisely to do half-inch cuts. You could make it do wider or narrower cuts, but it will be fixed to whatever width you build it as. Any table saw that works with a dado bit will almost certainly support a half-inch wide groove. If you decide to build your jig to a different gauge, then make replace all the measurements here with the desired width.

Set the rip fence at 1/2" and the blade height at a hair above 1/2". Take your remaining 1x12, hold it vertically against the rip fence, and pass it over the blade. This will set one width of your spacer.

Next, set the height of your blade appropriate for the full thickness of board you're working with, and leave the rip fence at 1/2". Cut out the rest of your spacer. 

Note: this will be tough at the end, because your smallest piece will be between the blade and the rip fence. Use a push stick, another scrap. or even spin the board around to the other side and re-set your blade. I just found that doing leaving the rip fence at 1/2" for both cuts gave me a perfect square without any thought, but it can get tricky handling such a small stick on a table saw. Be careful as always!

When you're done, you'll have a stick that is 1/2" by 1/2". Use the mitre saw to cut off two lengths of this stick, about four inches long
The instructions for this were done well. my saw kept catching on the spacer and throwing it so instead i drilled two holes perpendicular the table in line where the spacer would be and ran dowel rods threw the hole when needed to line up the cut properly and remove it when needed. great instructable.
<p>I went one step farther and went to a metal shop and picked up some 1/2' square steel. In total, it cost me $8.00. That gave me 8 inches of steel, 4 for the tongue and 4 for a spacer. I find it works a lot better than the wood as it doesn't snag or chip. Also, the spare piece allows me to set my blade height VERY quickly. I just used a drill press to drill through and then countersunk the screw.</p>
<p>We found the instructions easy to follow and it works well. We are starting the drawers for our bathroom cabinets ASAP!</p>
<p>Although I found the instruction a little confusing (more pics, less text), it did work out in the end. One thing I think helped was to mount the 2x4 to the backplane and rip it down to get flat surface, which made mounting it to base really easy and clean. </p>
Cool jig. Easy to make and works pretty well. I countersunk magnets into the first spacer so I don't lose it.
<p>Great idea! </p>
Awesome instructable. Just what I've been looking for to make a case for my next projects. <br>Thanks a bunch for sharing.
If this jig is secured and clamped on a router table, would it not work as well with a router? At present I do not have a table saw to work with, but I do have a router and a Miter Saw. I have a other saws and I think I can still make the cuts on the wood.
A router attached to a router table should be fine I would think. just be sure to use a good bit. i find that on the router, a spiral up cut bit works best as it slices wood and doesnt rip it like a regular rabbit or dado bit would.
I really like this jig. i got a plan off the web that uses your saws Miter gauge and you just screw a piece of scrap 1x4 or 1x6 to it and then do this same thing with the 1/2 stick for a spacer but I like your version better because the thing that ruined my last project (wooden dogs toys toy box) was that 1/2 way through cutting the boards, i knoticed the miter guage had loosened and wasnt set at 90 degrees no more... that stunk. I had to cut off all the ends and then i got mad and just used dowles to join all the pieces with oak dowles. looks good anyhow. But, your designe is nicer. its more like a miter slead with out the miter. very nice, plus i like your use of the second spacer.
Great job ! &acirc;€&brvbar; <br>It's simplicity and almost foolproof idea (&quot;almost&quot; as fools can be very creative) makes it one of the best idea (maybe the best) I've found on the net for a box joint jig (and there are a lot of them ! &acirc;€&brvbar;&Acirc;&nbsp;). <br> <br>However as a foreigner I have trouble to know what exactly is a&quot;dado stack bit set&quot; as stated on the list of required material. <br>&acirc;€&brvbar;&Acirc;&nbsp; <br>Is it the two blades contraption that is shown on your table saw ?&acirc;€&brvbar; <br>If not how this two blade system is called, and is it something &quot;homemade&quot; (if so how did you make it ?) or is it available on the market (a link would be absolutely fantastic) ,&acirc;€&brvbar; <br> <br>Thank you again.
That's a very creative (and dead simple at that) way to make sure your spacing is correct. I like it!
Glad you like it so much!
Very interesting.<br /> <br /> I should try to put two or more equal cutting blades in my hand grinder, for make these unions in my <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/A-cheap-%26-useful-cutting-table/" rel="nofollow">homemade cutting table</a>.

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