Brake job

How to replace the pads on your car's disc brakes.

*** NOW UPDATED *** with new retaining clips. See photos step 14.

This project won the Technical Video Rental 'Cool Project' award!

Step 1 Gather materials

Materials:

• new brake pads
• brake disc lube (high temperature synthetic grease)
• probably, new retainer pin spring clips

Tools:

• floor jack or other jack
• lug nut wrench
• assorted screwdrivers and pliers

My two cents:

Brake pads come in several flavors, named (in order of increasing high-techiness):
1 organic -- old style asbestos
2 semi-metallic -- fitted to most new cars
3 metallic -- usually used on race cars
4 ceramic -- the New New Thing in brake pads

Since you're saving beaucoup $$$ by replacing your own pads, it certainly does not hurt to spend a few extra bucks for the next better pads than the factory pads.

For instance, in my case, my car (1997 Ford Escort LX wagon -- not-too-sexy!) was factory equipped with semi-metallic in front, and organic in rear. I bumped up to ceramic in front, for $18 more, and if I were to do the rear, I would probably fit semi-metallic.

Comments

[lloydrmc]

one more thing - there is such a thing as a pad spreader, and many auto parts stores will loan you one for free.

[lloydrmc]

Oh, yeah - what he said about the hierarchy of usability of shop manuals. Factory-> Haynes, and then Chilton probably not worth the trouble. I would add that many public libraries have an excellent collection of factory shop manuals. Many has been the time when I couldn't figure something out, or wasn't confident about something, and I have found the answer in a factory shop manual at a library.

[lloydrmc]

While I've been working on cars for very nearly four decades, I've only ever done disk brakes on Fords. They have all been similar to this 'able. I've never had to polish the pins, and then the ones I have worked on have never been anywhere near as corroded as pictured. If I had to, I would use Scotch Brite pads or the like, as that would probably not damage whatever coating they had. If they are as cheap to replace as people say, I would go ahead and do so. Likewise, if I had any question about integrity the caliper, though I would definitely replace both, rather than just one.

I've gotten away with never turning a rotor. I once replaced them when I had a wobble under partial braking, figuring that they were warped.

What he said about bedding the brakes, though if you aren't some tailgating maniac, the expedient of driving gently around the block (as explained) will probably be sufficient.

BTW, I have NEVER put the wheel under the car. I have been known to use two sets of jack stands, and/or to let the jack down enough to put most of the weight on the jack stands, then to leave the jack there. If one was determined to do so, I suppose one could get some wheels at a junkyard, or maybe free off Craig's list. My car came with alloy wheels, and I'm sure that even a junkyard replacement would be expensive.

If you shop around, you can get a floor jack for not too much money. It is definitely an excellent investment. Harbor Freight has bottle jacks cheap. In either case, you can usually put it under the suspension, rather than the body, which means you don't have to lift the car anywhere near as much, which is much safer.

Years ago, my first cars were Corvairs, and no amount of jack stands, etc. seemed to keep them from falling over, off the jack stands, and to the ground with some regularity (it didn't help that the driveway was gravel/dirt. The solution ended up being getting 4x4's that were substantially wider than the car, and stacking them up crossways underneath.

[normanwest]

went to garage for brake pads I bought to be installed......had people who were coming to my house but were going to jack car up on stands and I wanted my car on a lift so i went to redneck garage that jacked it up on stands never used any grease on any parts at all and did not adjust the brake peddle so it would not travel to grab brake and did not bleed out brake fluid and put in new fluid as you failed to mention.......the install cost me 90...

[durban1]

Wish you were here to do my brakes! Signed... old lady!

[bigern71]

If you plan on keeping vehicles for a few years remember part number and take
a pic of pads so you don't buy wrong ones next time

[lkirchner]

I don't see where it is specifically states that the S shaped spring is re-installed between the holes in the top and bottom pins. I believe this is what keeps the pins from coming out. I got a new brake hardware kit that had 4 small clips to replace this spring.

[Justagirl69]

I'm a 23 year old female and after reading your article I went to Checker, bought some front brake pads for my 2006 Pontiac G6 and changed my own. The first one took me over an hour with a little cussing, but I did the second one in less than 30 minutes! (proud smile) Thanks for the excellent coaching!

[bigb55]

Installing new pad's on old rotor's is bad news. You should at the very least have them turned down at a local auto shop,it's cheap and the new pad's will seat themselves to the new rotor surface instead of causing premature wear on the old surface.

[UntouchableJ$K]

I did'nt think I could do the brakes on my grandma's 2000 escort zx2 cuz im used to working on old chevy's, with your instructions, i flew thru it and it was great! thank you soooo much!

[brianl703]

Should also mention that you should use the proper lubricant for caliper slides. That is a lubricant designed for the purpose, such as Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper lube or Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant. You should NOT use: Motor oil, anti-seize, WD40, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, axle grease, bearing grease, lithium grease, corn oil or anything BUT a lubricant designed for the purpose.

[brianl703]

"Oh wait before you do see if there is another set of do it your self instuctions for polishing and lubricating caliper slides. " Caliper slides should be replaced, not polished. That is because they are often plated to protect them against corrosion. Polishing removes that plating, so they will corrode sooner than if you'd done the job right and installed new ones.

[Johnny_B_Good]

I just finished mine and this instruction was great. For clarification I am adding one additional photo that shows the difference between the caliper mounting bolts framed in red (dont need to be touched) and the caliper slide bolts (with the rubber protectors) highlighted with a yellow border in the new photo. You will see what part of the caliper sort of underneath slides on these two bolts. Mine didn't slide very easily but they did slide.

[miamor]

(Here I'll improve on the Aug 6 details so I deleted those to avoid duplication confusion)
DESCRIPTION:
It's been a while, but where I wrote, "In fact, one of the bolts was finger loose! But the bushings..."
I meant those 2 bolts holding caliper to car, which Johnny-B now shows in Yellow. They each have rubber boots to keep the corrosive effect of water out, but it gets in. The top one is a metal-to-metal bearing, the bottom is metal-to-rubber. But both need to be greased. I just checked on mine after 2 years. They are still lubed ok on top pin, but dry on lower one. Need to ask Ford what grease they use here. Someone....?
DISASSEMBLY:
Remove the bolts but leave caliper connected to brake line hose. Hang it with wire, and pull spring clip off hose to allow even more free movement. Once caliper is loose and bolts are out, you'll see the bushings that the bolts went through (in caliper). That caliper was supposed to be sliding on these! But you may need to pull*do not* pound (DAMHIK) those bushings out of caliper if they corroded in place. Hereafter I'll call it a "pin" like Ford does.

See my photo, it shows the caliper hanging off wire, 2 pin faces, and red anti-squeel on the casting where inner pad rests.

There is enough "pin" exposed if you push boot down to grab it with channel locks. Whatever you do, don't scuff up the pin where it slides into caliper. Only scuff up the ends which remain exposed outside bearing surface.
CLEAN & ASSEMBLE:
Boots won't remove nor install while pin is still inside. You'll want to only pull the 2 top ones for cleaning, leave the bottom one alone. It's one long boot all the way through caliper. Just clean its inside surface.

To pull top boots: pull out pin first. Then 2 boots. Clean, apply BRAKE GREASE to pin and bore. Insert 1 boot, insert pin, push too far until it clears groove for other boot, insert 2nd boot, now retract pin into it. You'll now see the way boot is retained in its groove by the pin.

Both pins do need grease, so pull lower pin. Clean, apply BRAKE GREASE to lower pin and inside surface of lower boot, insert pin. I think this boot accepts much more grease than the tight clearance upper bore. It dries out if you don't generously grease it. I tried injecting more grease than on upper pin.
FINISH-UP
After bolt onto car (30 Lb-ft) push and pull the caliper, you'll see it slide as long as pads aren't tight against rotor. Make sure before you leave that all the boots are snapped into the groove on end of pin. It should stay dirt and water tight for a couple years. And put the clip back onto hose.

[miamor]

This is a floating caliper
Right about now you should be pulling the 2 -14mm bolts to grease the bushings. If you don't, you will have a stationary, sticking assembly. I know, I just did mine, and it was absolutely stuck. In fact, one of the bolts was finger loose! But the bushings where both really stuck in there with crusty 'ol grease/dirt goop.

[Johnny_B_Good]

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[Johnny_B_Good]

See my comment on Aug 18th.

[Derin]

dont forget the sensor wire or ur in for your car being filled with beeps and a yellow light the shape of a basic brake

[jbgrifter]

I recently changed my own brakes with no problem. I was taught by a friend who's done it forever and neither of us has any problems. I put the whole procedure here:
http://fivemartinilunch.blogspot.com/2008/06/how-to-change-your-brakes.html

[thomasedisonjr]

While it is clear you know what you are doing, most do not when it comes to changing brake pads. The fact you've done this many times makes it less likely you will make a costly error. Brakes are a very important safety device on a car. If they don't work, the people in that car risk serious injury - or death! Your Instructable should be viewed as an insight to how it's done, and not as a step by step for someone who wants to do it for his or herself. I'm sorry, but it just too dangerous. Brake jobs should be left to the pros. Because of the inherent danger in this, I cannot recommend it unless it is viewed as entertainment, as opposed to a how-to. And as entertainment, it's nicely done.

[CrustyCrayon]

I don't agree, brake pads are a simple job. I can see a mechanic doing some more in depth brake work, maybe. Mechanics learned their work from other people too. They didn't come out of their moms with a monkey wrench and greasy fingers. Besides, they might have to look up information on how to work on certain cars. Most people can do their own car work if the have somewhere and some time to do it. That's why you pay the mechanic $12 for parts, and $60 an hour for labor.

[Esmagamus]

Loved your comment. There are incompetent mechanics, the fact that they own or work in a garage doesn't makes them good at it. For example, my brother once took his van (company's van, actually) to the Opel garage to have the brake pads replaced and the mechanic that did the job never put the retaining clips in. He was lucky not to get killed.

[crazytech24]

When installing new pads it is a very good idea to buy a small bottle of Anti-Squeak. It usually is red and looks like glue. Apply it evenly to the backing plates of the pads only. Let it sit for several minutes then install the pads.

[Esmagamus]

Is it somewhat like engine joint glue?

[crazytech24]

Do not Grease the backing plates. You simply want to get a bottle of Anti-Squeak and apply it evenly ONLY on the backing plate of the pad, let it sit for several minutes and then install pads.

[crazytech24]

On a vehicle with ABS you never want to simply push the piston back into the bore. This will cause dirty fluid to enter the ABS solenoids and cause damage. Some ABS systems are completely integral and can be VERY expensive to replace. When pushing the pistons back into the bore you must open the bleeder and SLOWLY apply pressure to the piston. If you dont have a Vacuum?Injection Pump, its best to have someone there helping. Make sure you do it slowly and DO NOT let air into the system. Once this is done you can top off the system.

[dimi]

The brake job shown looks very similar to my son's 2000 Ford Escort ZX2. I notice that the old brakes used shims, but not with the new set. Do you still need the shims?

[molbar]

myself I would remove brakemaster cap and place a rag around the outside of cylinder because in general if you don't you will see a pool of brake fluid jetting out of cap and spraying your bonnet/hood I have changed many of brake disc pads another trick I use is to do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference once correct then do the other side

[PS118]

Hey great indestructable! I love the detail, and plenty of pics. I wish more were like this! Anyway, I would add one piece of advice for people who try this: Laytex or silicone gloves and maybe a face mask. I know, I know, like you wanna get suited up like Darth Vader to do a simple bake job. Well, they say that between the pads' material and the incredible amount of energy they've absorbed over their lifetime, brake dust is quite carcenegenic! Of course, what isn't nowadays? Still, a little prevention couldn't hurt, says I. ;)

[Actor]

Radiorental – you mentioned that you have a Mazda and there is something that has to be screwed back in order for the piston to move and give room for the pads. Is this device part of the piston? Is it separate from the piston? Where is it located and what does it look like?

[Prometheus]

Just like with Honda rear disc brakes, the part you need to screw is part of the rear piston. This adjuster automatically takes up slack in the rear brakes and, simply put, means screwing the "piston" back in to make room for the new pads. Your brakes may vary, but generally-speaking, you simply screw this adjuster back in (which is the face of the working piston) and go from there, just don't screw it in too far.

[radiorental]

sorry, got my terminology screwed up. Yes screw the piston back with a special tool or you can use heavy duty needle nose pliers. Grease the caliper slides, then pump the brakes to bed the pistons on to the pads again.

[radiorental]

You screw the caliper back (I think what you are calling a piston) back to allow room for the pads. I have a mazda 6, if you have another model the brakes may be different
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=31&Itemid=49

[feralbeagle]

Use a troque wrench to tighten the wheel lug nuts. Unevenly tightened lug nuts can cause the brake rotors to warp. Warped rotors are one cause of brakes pulsing. If the rotors become warped, they will need to be replaced. Anytime a auto shop removes your wheels they will (or should) use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts when the wheels are replaced. Hang around a brake or tire shop and watch how they do it.

[Prometheus]

Make sure they move criss-cross and not in a circle most importantly. This is the leading cause of warped rotors moreso than imperfect torque due to improper loading and compression of the hub flange. Many experienced mechanics have a "feel" for torque anyway, it is their technique that should be paid the most attention.

[phenoptix]

Loosen your nuts with the car on the road, then jack it up and remove the wheel

[Prometheus]

Just to respecify this instruction, "break loose" on the ground, and retighten moderately in a cross pattern overall. Then, with the wheel off the ground, loosen completely. I usually unweight the wheel by at least half before doing so, to minimize risk of disc-distortion or lug-failure.

[ruadrift]

cheap jack stands should be used once the car is jacked up instead of the jack or a rim. A crushed rim could cost $45 for replacement + tire mounting. Cheap jack stands cost $10-$15.

[Prometheus]

I'd opt for a crushed rim because cheap jack stands can cause the vehicle to sway to one side as they collapse. Better still, use both, you can never be too safe, just make sure that the stands meet a frame rail. I prefer to use the method of dividing the weight between the stands and the jack, with a wheel as an emergency standby. Furthermore, just keep your body parts away from areas of the car that would hit ground first should all measures fail. Set a simple plan to "push the car away from you" in case you have time to react. In reality, you're pushing yourself away, but acting on the contrary will move you away faster.

NEVER use a concrete block or brick as a standby, as it will likely just shatter if not perfectly-loaded. Wood can work, but is still not preferable as it can also just split. At least it takes well over 20,000 lbs to crush a "safety-wheel" (generic-type rim) flat.

Just my 2 cents...

[geastes]

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